Let's talk Quad Shocks

The problem is not the missing quads. First, check the axle shafts. Rangers are old, just like our Mustangs, so it's possible it could have been bent from a curb shot or accident.

The other problem could be if you have stock LCA's and UCA's, the bushings are completely cracked and rotted. When you replace those arms, they come with new bushings and they will keep the rear end planted.

None of my foxes have have quads, they just have UCA and LCA and stock sway bar and good street tires. No shakes, no wobbles, no wheel hop...period.

SVT32VDOHC said:

The problem is not the missing quads. First, check the axle shafts. Rangers are old, just like our Mustangs, so it's possible it could have been bent from a curb shot or accident.

The other problem could be if you have stock LCA's and UCA's, the bushings are completely cracked and rotted. When you replace those arms, they come with new bushings and they will keep the rear end planted.

None of my foxes have have quads, they just have UCA and LCA and stock sway bar and good street tires. No shakes, no wobbles, no wheel hop...period.

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Just out of curiosity, what control arms do you run?

magnj said:

I will check them out, I'm looking for rust and play in the DS at the ends?

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Well the first thing you want to do is get the car going in gear with the rear end up off the ground so the car will stay still.

The rear of the car needs to be very stable on jackstands.

You can then let the engine idle in gear, and step and look for any obvious movement. There should no wobbling or shaking.

Watch the wheels spin from the sides, as well as from the back. They will be spinning but there should otherwise be no movement.

If you see a wheel wobbling around, you might have a bent wheel or a bent axle. Pull the rear wheels off and do it again. If you see the same movement in the drums/rotors you know you have a bent axle.

After that you're going to want to Carefully move under the car so you can observe the driveshaft. Again, it should just be spinning. If you see any up/down or side to side motion, any motion other than just spinning, it's going to cause a vibration or a shake. The motion will be worst at it's source. A bent driveshaft will show an up/down/side motion the worse right where it's bent. A bent pinion in your rear will make the flange that the driveshaft bolts to wobble.

Before you blame the driveshaft, and spend the money on an aluminum one, lets make sure it's not something else. A bent pinion for example is going to cost you the time and money for a new rear end, or the time and money to have a new set of gears installed.

Also, where you feel it in the car can tell you a lot. With a bad driveshaft, you're really going to feel it in the shifter. With a bent wheel/axle, you're going to feel it through the body of the car.

Pull out your pipe and do some detective work, and you'll actually take less time and spend less money to get her running smooth.

Remove your DS and take it to a driveline spec. shop. Guy charged me 50bucks to replace u-joints and check the balance, turned out my DS was bent so he straightened it out and no more wobble, an Alum DS will likely set you back 300 bucks after shipping. IMO it would be easier to just the remove the DS and have it checked

You have an oil leak, that's for sure.
Could be the main seal or the valve covers. May not be leaking alot, but over time it adds up to that mess.

Any time i've had a squeek in any car with the rear tires off the ground and the wheels moving, it's been the U joints.
It wouldn't be unheard of either that the vibration was the flywheel worn out.

Yea, you definitely have an oil leak. The rear main seal on these cars tend to leak as they get older. Also, the valve covers work themselves loose over time. Snug up the valve cover bolts next time you're under the hood.

As for the quad shocks this is what I have found. I bought new koni quads about a year ago. Well I want to get 10 inch slicks but they wont fit with the quads so I took them off. I drove the car around for a few days and to my suprise I could not tell they were not there. Later that week I was leaving work and a few friends told me to get down as I was about to pull out so I fired it up and OMG at the wheel hop as the tires spun they bounced even harder. I left them like that for a nother week and every time I got in the gas the wheels just bounced. So I put the quads back on. As far as I can tell all the quads do is prevent wheel hop.

wildstang90 said:

As for the quad shocks this is what I have found. I bought new koni quads about a year ago. Well I want to get 10 inch slicks but they wont fit with the quads so I took them off. I drove the car around for a few days and to my suprise I could not tell they were not there. Later that week I was leaving work and a few friends told me to get down as I was about to pull out so I fired it up and OMG at the wheel hop as the tires spun they bounced even harder. I left them like that for a nother week and every time I got in the gas the wheels just bounced. So I put the quads back on. As far as I can tell all the quads do is prevent wheel hop.

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I agree with that.
But alot of times the use of good control arms eliminate that wheel hop.

If you hear knocking at Idol its not the DS casue its not turning. Sometimes you head a chatter when your in neut and the clutch is out that would most likely be the throw out beering. I think some one also said somehitng about the fly wheel. Like I said if your not moving then your DS is not turning and with that said from the DS back is not where the problem is. If you do your own work and dont have to drive the car every day pull out the trany and look at things in there like input shaft pressure plate flywheel clutch. Its easy to see if there is somthing wrong everything should have a smooth feel to it no grooves no shavings any where.

Pull the Ebrake put it in neut and let the clutch out get out and see if you hear anything. I have some nasty sounds that were nothen more than a thow out berring that went bad