Let's talk Stopping!

00stangv6lr

00stangv6lr

New Member
Sep 25, 2006
61
0
0
Omaha, NE
#1
Ok, so I have been thinking about doing brakes for a while. Today I was thinking about it and would it be better to go with brakes, or should I get better tires. I have some hankook junk right now. And would shocks be any good to help to keep weight from transfering? I noticed when I stop quick, I get a large amount of nose dive. I have only the Eibach Pro-kit right now, the rest of the suspension is stock. I guess my question is whats the best bang for buck when trying to upgrade stopping power?
 
#3
I've got 13" StopTechs on my S281. The thing feels like it's going to flip over it's own nose when you stand on the pedal. Everybody that's gotten a ride says the same thing when I stop from 90: "God damn!"

As such, seatbelts are mandatory in my car. :)


Stickier tires will help, somewhat, and are a cheaper option. Same with suspension (more of an improvement than tires, and obviously more spendy). But in the end, the best way to improve braking is to improve the brakes. But, you can drop some serious coin on brakes. I was fortunate, in that my friend (previous owner) already paid for and installed the StopTechs.
 
#7
00stangv6lr said:
So it looks pretty obvious that I need brakes. Does upgrading the rears help much for the extra money? How do the cobra brakes compare to other brembo/stoptech/willwood/etc. brakes?
Click to expand...

upgrading the rears does help IMOP. i drove my car with just the mach 1 brakes up front before installing the rears and i deffinetly noticed the difference once i installed the rears. becides the rear kit is cheap its only 175 and you get new brembo rotors. the cobra/mach1/bullitt brakes are a step lower then brembo stoptech or willwood. IMOP unless you are planning on some open road course racing or other events where you are goin to be turning corners you really dont need them.
 
#8
Cobra/Mach/Bullitt are all you really need for street driving esp with moderate mods...... I absolutely love mine.... big big difference...... and fronts are most important because they do most of the braking anyway.....

so +999 on cobra/mach/bullitt kit
 
#9
Yeah, the StopTechs on mine are more suited for autocross/track (which I'll be getting into next summer). I can't remember which brand of pads he put on, but they're very aggressive metallic race pads. Tons of stop, but lots of dust.
 
#10
I went with more of a low-buck approach. I used a set of stock size drilled and slotted front rotors from Summitt for 53.99 each and some good ceramic pads. My original rotors were warped so I thought if I was going to buy new rotors, I might as well spend an extra 20$ and get some better ones. I have less than 200$ in my brake system. It was a huge improvement over stock. Money well spent IMO.

My car has drilled and slotted cobra/bullitt rotors, Bullitt calipers and steel braided hoses in its future anyways.

006-2.webp
 
#11
+1 on the Mach 1 kit. Tires do play a role though. The brakes stop the wheels. The tires need to grab. So if you upgrade the brakes and find your ABS is kicking in more (or the tires lock if no ABS) then time for better rubber.


Solid rotors > drilled rotors for performance, but on the average street car it won't matter. You'll never push the brakes that hard anyway.

I painted the hats on my Mach 1 rotors with high temp paint and drove that way for a year prior to autocrossing. The first autocross event i went to, i ended up blistering the paint right off the rotors on the first run. It stunk so badly. So yeah...average street driving doesn't get your brakes anywhere near to the abuse level autoXing or road racing does.
 
#12
68stang351 said:
I went with more of a low-buck approach. I used a set of stock size drilled and slotted front rotors from Summitt for 53.99 each and some good ceramic pads. My original rotors were warped so I thought if I was going to buy new rotors, I might as well spend an extra 20$ and get some better ones. I have less than 200$ in my brake system. It was a huge improvement over stock. Money well spent IMO.

My car has drilled and slotted cobra/bullitt rotors, Bullitt calipers and steel braided hoses in its future anyways.

006-2.webp
Click to expand...


I went with Summit brakes also. I am impressed.

I only did the fronts; at the time the rears didn't need them.

The rotor quality seems great.

I used EBC Greenstuff pads and they work well for normal driving, and once you get a little heat in them they grab hard. Minimal dust, and it comes off very easy.

I took my car around our local Speedway for 3-4 laps, nailing the brakes to slow the car into the corners. On the last lap when I had to pull it down hard to get back into the pits is when they finally got too hot and started fading hard. Got the nice burnt brake smell. They cooled down shortly and were like normal after that though.


I am happy with them, and I am sure I would be incredibly happy with the performance of a better setup such as the Bullitt/Cobra/Mach system. If you are serious about braking go that route. If you are on a budget and want to increase performance with an otherwise stock system, the Summit rotors are nice and I like the EBC pads.
 
#13
Brothers performance has a Baer front brake kit for 895 and free shipping, thought that was reasonable. Im considering these or the cobra brakes but not till next year. 4.10s, suspension and tune before winter this year. :) 4.10s already coming :)
 
#17
Does anyone have the Baer Grand Touring instead of the Track? The Track has PBR's "PGC" (Pad Guided Caliper) and the GT's have the "PDC" (Pin Drive Caliper). Any noticible difference between the two? They cost the same but the pads on the GT's are supposed to be larger.
 
#19
68stang351 said:
I went with more of a low-buck approach. I used a set of stock size drilled and slotted front rotors from Summitt for 53.99 each and some good ceramic pads. My original rotors were warped so I thought if I was going to buy new rotors, I might as well spend an extra 20$ and get some better ones. I have less than 200$ in my brake system. It was a huge improvement over stock. Money well spent IMO.

My car has drilled and slotted cobra/bullitt rotors, Bullitt calipers and steel braided hoses in its future anyways.

006-2.webp
Click to expand...


i too went with a budget brake upgrade. i got mine from ebay. a company named Gripforce. i was very pleased. they were drilled and slotted and also came zinc coated for rust resistance. very nice set. they used stock calipers ( which i repainted ). i spent the extra money and got Ford Motorcraft pads - minimal dust.

the rotors themselves i got for around $130 shipped, all 4. they also looked great behind my black wheels.
 
#20
The thing feels like it's going to flip over it's own nose when you stand on the pedal.
Click to expand...

while that may feel awesome when driving, if you are nose diving that hard the you need to upgrade your rear brakes. That kind of nose diving means you are off of the front to rear brake torque ratio (the ratio of braking being applied to the front as it is to the rear. If too much is being applied forward your rear wheels are losing weight, applying extra to the front, which in turn requires longer for your car to stop. This is especially noticable when braking into s turn, having your rear become light going into the turn can cause you to lose overall traction, requiring you to slow even further before accelerating out of the turn. If none of this matters then the extra work required of your front brakes will shorten the life span, creating extra heat and more of the mushy feeling pedal that we all hate, one reason of many for upgrading the front brakes anyways... So in short, upgrade your rears, you will be glad you did.
 
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