let's talk stroker

Like Chris said above :nice:

360 fwhp is dooable as 360 X .85 = 306 rwhp ... stick trans ;)

Since so many dyno pulls these days are done with a STD calibration :(
which usually yields higher results :eek:
than the SAE cal which usued to be the norm ..........

You should be able to make your goal happen :)

You won't do that with OEM or GT40 stuff so we're talking aftermarket

You'll need ALL supporting stuff like inj's, tb, meter, and the like :Word:

Also ... you won't make it with elevated fuel pressure and dizzy twisting :nono:
well
Maybe you could do it for WOT or Dyno numbers alone :shrug:
but
It won't behave on the street worth a dam that is for sure :rlaugh:

Grady
 
Why not get one of these reman short blocks??? $699 + 135 shipping

1979-95 Mustang 5.0L 302 Economy Short Block, Accepts Roller Cam at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

Bolt on these..... $2449.99

1987-93 Mustang 5.0L Top End Engine Kit With Black Trick Flow Street Heat Intake, Twisted Wedge Heads And Trick Flow Stage 1 Camshaft at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

And don't forget one of these....... $59.99

1994-95 Mustang Gt 5.0L Efi Professional Products Satin Intake Adapter at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

Then get a mail order tune from someone (I got mine from DirtyDirtyRacing for $179.99).

Total $3523.97

Keep in mind some of these parts can be found elsewhere for cheaper but I like ordering as many things as possible from one place to minimize shipping cost.

Then you can get the other stuff you will want to upgrade with the left over money, or can wait till later because most of your stock parts will work with these aftermarket ones.
 
I think you will do better with a Trick Flow kit. The heads are a legitamately better design than the Edelbrock heads. You can get away without a tune with a mild cam. Any of those 350hp kits, and you care going to need a tune. Keep in mind, if you have an auto trans, it's still going to run 15.0 if you put all that power through a stock trans. To get it to move, you're going to need to do trans pak and a converter. Might as well rebuild the transmission while you have it apart. The converter is going to be key in making the car streetable.

Kurt
 
On this TFS kit its says
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Steam Holes Drilled No
Machined for O-Ring No
Heat Crossover No

What is all this and is it necessary? Also what what about my stock TB? Will it bolt right up to this, or should I get a new one? Also is what about EGR
 
On this TFS kit its says
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Steam Holes Drilled No
Machined for O-Ring No
Heat Crossover No

What is all this and is it necessary? Also what what about my stock TB? Will it bolt right up to this, or should I get a new one? Also is what about EGR

You need the 94/95 elbow adapter and thats it.
 
On this TFS kit its says
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Steam Holes Drilled No
Machined for O-Ring No
Heat Crossover No

What is all this and is it necessary? Also what what about my stock TB? Will it bolt right up to this, or should I get a new one? Also is what about EGR

A quick google search will tell you what that stuff is, and no it is not necessary. Like Adam said, all you need to mount your throttle body is the adapter like the one I listed in my previous post. This adapter will connect your egr valve to your new intake also. Eventually a bigger TB would be a good addition to your setup.
 
A trickflow top end kit on your current engine block will be fine. Usually a dyno tune costs around the $500 range but can be more can be less. Its best to find and call the nearest dyno shop near you and ask.