Progress Thread Let's try this again...

[Alldegree]

Gentlemen, an update:

I’ve been driving the car around a lot lately. Usually once or twice a week it serves as my main vehicle for the day, which means a two hour total commute to and from work, plus sitting in traffic and drive-through lines.

Everything is working perfectly. The temperature gauge rarely goes past the midpoint, and the fans come on and turn off when they’re supposed to. The weather has been pretty mild lately (my coworkers call it “freezing,”) so the real test will come in the summer, but I’m confident this setup will work.

Since mechanically things are holding for now, I need something else to throw my money and time at, so I’m planning on doing some cosmetic work. There’s a couple stubborn scuffs and scrapes that I’d like to address.

I think this came from a brush with a garage door frame a few years ago. Never been able to scrub it out, and I’m afraid to go at it with polish or sandpaper since it’s unpainted plastic.

This happened more recently, some ptfe sealant dripped onto the headlight bucket and my scrubbing seems to have taken a portion of the paint off. It’s a satin plastic finish, so I’m not sure what I can or can’t do, but I’m thinking some fine grit sandpaper, a lot of masking, and a squirt of spray paint? I know the paint and plastic is cracking on the divider between the headlights as well, I’m not really worried about that right now.

So if you guys have any suggestions on how to tackle those spots, I’m all ears. I do have a can of gray spray paint that’s supposed to match the headlight bucket.

Hope you’ve all had a good thanksgiving!

 

[WhiteCobra95]

Your car looks awesome! That color combo and the wheels really work well together. The black wheel centers play off of the factory GT hood stripe perfectly. I also dig the American flag above the 5.0! That's one beautiful 4-eye right there. Well done!

 

[Alldegree]

Your car looks awesome! That color combo and the wheels really work well together. The black wheel centers play off of the factory GT hood stripe perfectly. I also dig the American flag above the 5.0! That's one beautiful 4-eye right there. Well done!

Thanks, but the previous owner and the weather in California should take most of the credit for the car’s condition. All I’ve done since I bought the car is break stuff

Those flags actually came from an aircraft supply company. They were the only ones I could find that had the correct orientation on the passenger’s side (stars on the right, advancing) in that size.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

Your car looks good!

What is the yellow and black sticker below the antenna? A military insignia? A coat of arms?

 

[Willybill32]

Gentlemen, an update:

I’ve been driving the car around a lot lately. Usually once or twice a week it serves as my main vehicle for the day, which means a two hour total commute to and from work, plus sitting in traffic and drive-through lines.

Everything is working perfectly. The temperature gauge rarely goes past the midpoint, and the fans come on and turn off when they’re supposed to. The weather has been pretty mild lately (my coworkers call it “freezing,”) so the real test will come in the summer, but I’m confident this setup will work.

Since mechanically things are holding for now, I need something else to throw my money and time at, so I’m planning on doing some cosmetic work. There’s a couple stubborn scuffs and scrapes that I’d like to address.

I think this came from a brush with a garage door frame a few years ago. Never been able to scrub it out, and I’m afraid to go at it with polish or sandpaper since it’s unpainted plastic.

This happened more recently, some ptfe sealant dripped onto the headlight bucket and my scrubbing seems to have taken a portion of the paint off. It’s a satin plastic finish, so I’m not sure what I can or can’t do, but I’m thinking some fine grit sandpaper, a lot of masking, and a squirt of spray paint? I know the paint and plastic is cracking on the divider between the headlights as well, I’m not really worried about that right now.

So if you guys have any suggestions on how to tackle those spots, I’m all ears. I do have a can of gray spray paint that’s supposed to match the headlight bucket.

Hope you’ve all had a good thanksgiving!

SEM 39153 bumper coater is the correct charcoal color, but likely your trim has faded a bit. I have an '86 GT the same color, but in the shop for paint and will get all the trim painted in the SEM charcoal color.

 

[Rdub6]

First pic of the white scuff looks like it’s on top of the gray. Maybe some mild solvent like mineral spirits to soften it up and take it off?

And I agree with the rest, car does look great!!!

 

[Alldegree]

Your car looks good!

What is the yellow and black sticker below the antenna? A military insignia? A coat of arms?

That’s the coat of arms of Carrol Shelby’s Terlingua Racing Team that raced mustangs in Trans Am in the mid to late 60’s. I’ll link the story below, but it has to do with a ranch in Texas, Jackrabbits, and a chili cookoff. The emblem itself I think is supposed to be a sort of parody of European racing logos (like Ferrari and Porsche).

https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/history-lesson-the-terlingua-racing-team.1138969/


I know they’re not period-correct to the car, and racing stickers are kind of tacky, but I think they’re subtle and obscure enough to be fun, and it gets people talking. A kind of “Easter egg,” if you will. Plus, a portion of the cost of the sticker goes to Shelby’s charity for kids with heart disease, so it’s for a good cause.

 

[Alldegree]

SEM 39153 bumper coater is the correct charcoal color, but likely your trim has faded a bit. I have an '86 GT the same color, but in the shop for paint and will get all the trim painted in the SEM charcoal color.

I’ll take a look at the spray can. Maybe I should spray a piece of cardboard to see if it matches?

First pic of the white scuff looks like it’s on top of the gray. Maybe some mild solvent like mineral spirits to soften it up and take it off?

And I agree with the rest, car does look great!!!

I’ll give that a shot, I figured since it’s paint transfer it would come off somehow but I wasn’t sure how to do it without damaging the plastic below.

 

[Alldegree]

Ok, painting has commenced and things are going pretty well I think.

I’m just taking my time, sanding between light coats. I was using p320 grit, but that seems like it took off too much of the coat while also leaving tiny scratches, so I’m using p800 now to just try to scuff out any scratches I see.

It’s kind of working, but I’m still working on the technique. I know it takes awhile to do it right. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Also found out the gray trim on the bumper is, in fact, painted. Should’ve seen that coming. I have a couple tiny spots to touch up on that now too, but I think I’ll see if I can find a paint pen or something for that.

 

[Alldegree]

Predictably, I’m running into some frustrating issues.

After spending several hours literally watching paint dry and inhaling enough fumes to probably eliminate a years worth of education, what I was painting looks worse than when I started.

I keep ending up with what looks like dust in the paint layer even after I sand and wipe with a damp cloth. The bumps are always in the same place, and the only way I’ve found to get rid of them is to sand down to the base and start over.

I finally got to the point where I thought it looked good, then I pulled the masking tape and found that I had a raised edge along the edge of the tape.

I kind of expected this, and thought I could just sand them down with some 1000 grit sandpaper, but that just sanded off the thinner paint next to the section I had just painted.

But perfect is the enemy of the good, and good is the enemy of the acceptable, so I’m calling it acceptable for right now until I either have the tools and knowledge to do it right, or just take it to a paint shop.

 

[Noobz347]

At this point, I might spray filler primer on-top of that, let it dry, and sand it level before another base coat.

So, build up the low spots instead of trying to sand down into the high ones to make it uniform.

 

[Boosted92LX]

At this point, I might spray filler primer on-top of that, let it dry, and sand it level before another base coat.

So, build up the low spots instead of trying to sand down into the high ones to make it uniform.

This. And throw a plastic drop cloth over the whole car and mask it well while doing that, so you don't overspray the paint. A few sheets of newspaper isn't even remotely sufficient.

 

[Alldegree]

Gentlemen! I’m back and, as expected, I have more problems.

For awhile now, I noticed a whooshing noise when on the throttle and an occasional stumble. It’s gotten worse over time, so I figured I had a vacuum leak. Did a smoke test, found a leak at a cracked brass fitting where the pcv tube meets the throttle body from the oil fill tube.

I couldn’t find a replacement fitting, so I ordered a new BBK 70mm throttle body and threw it on and now I have even more problems.

The car won’t idle below 1000rpm even with the throttle screw all the way out and the IAC unplugged. It’ll hunt around 900, but it always seems to settle at 1000. Did more smoke testing, and the only place I could find where air might get in is at the TPS, but I’ve heard the throttle blade shaft isn’t sealed in the housing, so a little bit is normal.

Also noticed a pretty distinct whistling noise at those lower rpms, which I’ve read is the diameter not being exactly the same between the throttle body, EGR spacer, and upper manifold. I measured and they’re all at 70mm, but there are some gaps and hard edges that could be ported.

So I’m at a loss. Even with the throttle screw all the way out and the throttle body closed, the car still runs which I don’t think it’s supposed to. I assume I have another leak somewhere past the throttle body, but thus far I can’t find it.

I’ll try and get some pictures of my setup, maybe I’m missing a hose or something.

 

[Noobz347]

Remind those of us that don't want to review the last 27 pages:

What's the rest of your engine combo?

Are you still speed density? If so, that TB is not going to work.

 

[Alldegree]

Remind those of us that don't want to review the last 27 pages:

What's the rest of your engine combo?

Are you still speed density? If so, that TB is not going to work.

Yeah, that would be helpful.

I have a stock 1985 bottom end and roller block, stock e7 heads, GT40 upper/lower intake, 70mm EGR spacer, 70MM Throttle body, MAF conversion, and BBK fender well intake. Also have an MSD coil and distributor cap and some kind of mild cam.

The car idled just fine before I put in the new tb.

 

[AeroCoupe]

It’s been well documented that the BBK throttle bodies whistle. Have you looked at the surging idle check list and more specifically the base idle reset procedure?

Thread 'Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"'

Apr 10, 2005

Updated 05 July 2022 to add rough idle when cold and smooth idle when up to normal operating temperature. See the EGR tech information, section #15 for more help.

Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of a systematic process that checks and eliminates possible causes. This idle problem checklist will use the same troubleshooting strategy and methodology.

By the term surging idle, I mean an idle that...

• jrichker
• 1986 1993 86-93 check engine light code 67 cranks ok dump codes eec-iv mustang no start
• Replies: 575
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

• 

Post in thread 'Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"'
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...he-surging-idle-checklist.698148/post-6855020

 

[Alldegree]

It’s been well documented that the BBK throttle bodies whistle. Have you looked at the surging idle check list and more specifically the base idle reset procedure?

Thread 'Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"'

Apr 10, 2005

Updated 05 July 2022 to add rough idle when cold and smooth idle when up to normal operating temperature. See the EGR tech information, section #15 for more help.

Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of a systematic process that checks and eliminates possible causes. This idle problem checklist will use the same troubleshooting strategy and methodology.

By the term surging idle, I mean an idle that...

• jrichker
• 1986 1993 86-93 check engine light code 67 cranks ok dump codes eec-iv mustang no start
• Replies: 575
• Forum: Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

• 

Post in thread 'Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"'
https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums...he-surging-idle-checklist.698148/post-6855020

That’s unfortunate, because it’s really loud.

I did perform a base idle reset as prescribed in the instruction manual for the throttle body, but I hadn’t considered unplugging the spout connector and locking in the timing while I did it.

I’m thinking that because it idles so high even with the throttle completely closed, air has to be getting in where it’s not supposed to somewhere past the throttle body. I saw a pretty good amount of smoke escaping from the tps. Am I correct in thinking that some air leaking in this area is normal? It leaked on the stock throttle body as well.

 

[Noobz347]

With the spout plugged in, the EEC tries to raise rpm with timing.

 

[Alldegree]

With the spout plugged in, the EEC tries to raise rpm with timing.

I will give it a shot without then, thanks! Will update.

 

[Alldegree]

Unfortunately there’s been little change even with the spout disconnected. Car is still idling at 1000 warmed up, although on startup it idles at 850-900, which I think is about where I want it.

Here’s a picture of my engine bay and egr spacer plus my vacuum tree.

Later today I’m going to check my base timing. I’m assuming advanced timing would raise the idle speed?