Fox Life of a whiny T5 (Solved)

I thought 4 banger T5s were 4.00 1st gear and had lower torque rating.

The gears are different, but the shafts and synchros are the same. If you are seeking a mainshaft, you can use one here.

The T5 in my car now is a former 4-banger T5 where I just changed the gears to the v8 gearset. Everything else is the same
 
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I bought a main shaft for $200 from AMP Distributing. I also bought a set of pocket bearings for the end. I'll probably need an input shaft too since I've been using this one for a while. Ill inspect it when I drop the transmission.
 
Most T5s whine because they aren't shimmed correctly. You need to check the run out on the input shaft with a feeler gauge in accordance with the manual, and adjust the shims behind the front bearing retainer accordingly. The tension between the input shaft and the output shaft can cause all kinds of whining problems. If you are looking for a better oil, it's almost impossible to go wrong with GM or Amsoil Synchromesh. Even on the T5, I have had multiple professional sources recommend it.

Kurt
 
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I remember shimming it last time. I think I set it until there was no more play and a very slight resistance. Ill check out the manual for the actual specs this time. Fortunately, I kept all of my shims, so I should be good there. If anyone has specs for the o.d. of the pocket bearing (the part on the input shaft), that would be great.
 
You referring to the 93 cobra style pocket bearing?

I’m 99% sure it’s an Timkin LM11749/LM11710 bearing and race setup. Shows up as 1.57” OD on the race but you’ll want to get one in hand to measure first. Pretty cheap, common bearing.

The input shaft and mainshaft are unique due to the bearing.

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I'm in the oricess of rebuilding one right now....with 2 more right behind it.

I use a dial indicator at the yoke end with the transmission sitting on its face. ( input shaft facing down ). Tap it a couple times with a hammer and measure by pushing up on the input shaft. I set the shims as close to zero as I can get. I add just a hair preload on the cluster gear set...and just about zero on the main. Gotta make sure all the bearings are pressed all the way on or you can get all types of issues.

The bearing you need measured is the pocket bearing for the input shaft or the tip of the main shaft where the roller bearings go.
 
Ok so I tore it down today and I found some things.

Remember, this is after two years of regular abuse:
  • The main shaft was still in sad shape. I'm glad I'm replacing it now. Nothing surprising here
  • The input shaft (replaced 2 years ago) still looks brand new. There is no visible damage or wear.
  • The roller bearings are the same story. They look great and have no visible wear
  • There is no free play in the input shaft nor the counter shaft, so the shimming seems to be fine.

Pictures of the used input shaft:
InputShaft.jpg
InputShaft2.jpg

Teeth look good and pocket bearing surface looks new... I cannot see a reason to not reuse it.

This leads me to believe that the damage done that originally made the transmission whine was due to either low fluid or wrong fluid.
It appears that no more damage has been done.

If anyone has specs for gear mesh tolerance between input shaft and counter shaft, that would be great. My tolerance is about 6 thousandths right now.
 
Everything is in! New main shaft, input shaft, and pocket roller bearings. Everything is assembled properly and tripled checked. Shimmed the shafts to Tremec spec.

Lo and behold, it still whines... I filled it with synchromesh. It shifts much better than before, but still whines. Just as loud as before. I'm very confused and kind of frustrated. I spent around $350 for all new parts and fluid, just to end up with the same problem as before.

I don't know if my shifter is contributing to the loudness of the whine, but it certainly sounds like I have a blower on the car. Shifter has no gasket and is all aluminium. I also don't have the boot that goes form the transmission tunnel to the shifter.