Waiting for my dyno at tourqufreaks....man I tell you.
It's so hard staying out of the car....it's been done since last Friday...and well...I guess I'm waiting till next week!
Damn ...curses! Drats! Foiled again!
Oh well it will be worth it. We need more Dyno's in the greater portland area.
man these ported pulleyed eatons are fun!
It's so hard staying out of the car....it's been done since last Friday...and well...I guess I'm waiting till next week!
Damn ...curses! Drats! Foiled again!
Oh well it will be worth it. We need more Dyno's in the greater portland area.
man these ported pulleyed eatons are fun!
check your boost actuator switch, it might not be set wright when removed and put back on after porting. Its on your drivers side of the motor.
The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place. One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started. Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up off of the STOP. Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts. Now, this is the way it was explained to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to 10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more. I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened). I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free.
