Like pulling teeth!

OregonMustang · Aug 26, 2005

Waiting for my dyno at tourqufreaks....man I tell you.
It's so hard staying out of the car....it's been done since last Friday...and well...I guess I'm waiting till next week!

Damn ...curses! Drats! Foiled again!

Oh well it will be worth it. We need more Dyno's in the greater portland area.

man these ported pulleyed eatons are fun!

gospeedgo · Aug 26, 2005

OregonMustang said:
We need more Dyno's in the greater portland area.

Dynos are just money away, competent and friendly people to run them are few and far between. T/F and their employees rock. Worth the wait IMO

OregonMustang · Aug 26, 2005

Oh I agree 100%

I'm just grumbling becuase my boost does not work really...it blows over to max...no power...bogs...then nothing...but start at low up through it..and it works...weird...

Yes I have heard nothign but fantastic things from TF...

So I'm staying out of it.

The Factor · Aug 26, 2005

Thats strange check your boost actuator switch, it might not be set wright when removed and put back on after porting. Its on your drivers side of the motor.

The Factor · Aug 26, 2005

HOPE THIS HELPS............... COPYED OFF A WEBSITE FOR YA The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place. One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started. Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up off of the STOP. Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts. Now, this is the way it was explained to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to 10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more. I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened). I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free.

Jon · Aug 26, 2005

OregonMustang said:
Waiting for my dyno at tourqufreaks....man I tell you.
It's so hard staying out of the car....it's been done since last Friday...and well...I guess I'm waiting till next week!

Damn ...curses! Drats! Foiled again!

Oh well it will be worth it. We need more Dyno's in the greater portland area.

man these ported pulleyed eatons are fun!

The dyno is back up and running. There are a couple issues to figure out and it will be good to go.

WaterPog · Aug 26, 2005

Sounds low on boost fluid to me.

OregonMustang · Aug 26, 2005

Belt slipage is unlikley?? I have quite a bit of dust built up....
Yeah if I get into the boost from say 3K up..it works great...but If I'm at or near 4K it just bogs and does nothing and the boost gauge pegs....A/F at or near 4K?

Weird...

Anyhow I will bring it in as soon as the Dyno is ready. I'm anxious to get it running at it's potential. I love the work Krazy Koncepts did...very nice stuff.

Eric

OregonMustang · Aug 26, 2005

WaterPog said:
Sounds low on boost fluid to me.

OregonMustang · Aug 26, 2005

03yellowvenom said:
HOPE THIS HELPS............... COPYED OFF A WEBSITE FOR YA The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place. One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started. Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up off of the STOP. Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts. Now, this is the way it was explained to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to 10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more. I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened). I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free.

Interestingly enough I'm using my 04 boost acutator instead of the one that came on my 03 ported super. I don't think there were any differences...They swaped the acutator's out when replacing the super.

The Factor · Aug 26, 2005

well its not the actuator itself that gets adjusted , its how it mounted in reference to the stop.

The Factor · Aug 26, 2005

WaterPog said:
Sounds low on boost fluid to me.

Or the muffler bearings might need some oil

WaterPog · Aug 26, 2005

03yellowvenom said:
Or the muffler bearings might need some oil

Yep, I found a good way to do that on the IRS cobras, if you just park the car nose down on a steepish driveway and pour a quart in each tailpipe it'll flow downhill into the mufflers. It may smoke a Teeny-Tiny bit at first but it'll clear up once you drive it a bit.

The Factor · Aug 26, 2005

WaterPog said:
Yep, I found a good way to do that on the IRS cobras, if you just park the car nose down on a steepish driveway and pour a quart in each tailpipe it'll flow downhill into the mufflers. It may smoke a Teeny-Tiny bit at first but it'll clear up once you drive it a bit.

I knew there was a easier way

OregonMustang · Aug 26, 2005

Hell yeah! *doh* damn it!
I was squeezing this ruber part holding my muffler up and it felt squishy...maybe there was some oil pressure loss there...LOL

Good LORD!

OregonMustang · Aug 26, 2005

03yellowvenom said:
well its not the actuator itself that gets adjusted , its how it mounted in reference to the stop.

I actually took the one that was broke off the 03 Super...and checked it out..."muahahahah" and yes...I fully understand the 2 bolt thing.

I was just saying that I was not sure if there were physical differences between the way the accutators worked on the 03 vrs the 04. I mean shoot our midpipes are different...so you never know.

LOL

The Factor · Aug 27, 2005

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