Loc-tite on aluminum heads

Try what ever you like, not my car, go ahead and try it. If you do a search for header bolts, you will find that this is a very common problem. People have tried all kinds of things to prevent leaks. After trying 2 sets of bolts with lock washers, lock tight, 3 new gaskets, and constantly retightening the bolts, I got stage 8 bolts. Once you've really struggled with header gaskets, you will bite the bullet and buy the bolts.
 
scarless said:
Try what ever you like, not my car, go ahead and try it. If you do a search for header bolts, you will find that this is a very common problem. People have tried all kinds of things to prevent leaks. After trying 2 sets of bolts with lock washers, lock tight, 3 new gaskets, and constantly retightening the bolts, I got stage 8 bolts. Once you've really struggled with header gaskets, you will bite the bullet and buy the bolts.


Did you use the same type of gasket each time? You make it seem like the only way to have it not leak is to buy those bolts. That may of been your case but not for others. Sure people have struggled but you better believe that others have had a success without dropping the cash for the expensive bolts. Thus the reason for this guy asking what he is asking. On my accufab custom headers, with a Mr. Gasket Total Seal gasket, mostly 3/4" bolts but 1" where i could get them in around the primaries, and a drop of lock tite on the bolts, once i tightened the bolts, they didnt loosen at all. I didnt even have to re-tighten them. Though this was just for spring/summer/early fall and the motor stopped running, im pretty sure the trend was going to continue.


There are options, some things work for some people. I know a lot depends on the combo. What headers, what type of flange, if the flange is straight and is flush with the heads, what type of gasket, what type of bolts, etc etc etc.
 
Zero Signal said:
What about split lock-washers?

This is what has worked for me for years :D

I put my sig combo together Christmas of 02 with the above method and have lost no bolts or even found any to be loose. Still using the same Felpro gasket.

Some things I believe will help with this common problem are:

bolt fastener of some kind

correct length of bolt that allows maximum use without bottoming

mid pipe and catback secured tightly for no vibration which can cause the bosts to back out

headers not banging against anything to cause the bolts to back out

As for Loctite and header bolts

Iron heads ... I'd have no problem with it
Aluminun heads with heli coils ... maybe but ... probably not
Aluminum heads with bare threads like my AFR's ... not comfortable with it

Just my thoughts about this often talked about subject :shrug:

Grady
 
Well I replaced the ones that were missing (it was only 2, I thought it was 3). I guess I'll see how it goes.

Yea, Nate I'm with you all the way. Why should I just go out and drop $60 on header bolts if a $6 solution might work? :shrug: I like saving money, lol. That's almost two tanks of gas!! :D
 
eades5.0 said:
At that temp the loc-tite will melt


Thats what i was thinking...thus it not being a problem at ALL to take the bolts out. I stated this on another thread because i looked up the "high temp" rating of loctite on their site and it was really low.

If you need paint that is 1200*+ for the headers, then im pretty sure the cylinder heads will easily exceed the temp for loctite to hold.
CManT1914 said:
Yea, Nate I'm with you all the way. Why should I just go out and drop $60 on header bolts if a $6 solution might work? :shrug: I like saving money, lol. That's almost two tanks of gas!! :D


Exactly:nice:
 
i didnt use anything on mine, i think maybe a dab of oil to make them go in a lil easier, but that was all :shrug:


i did spend the $30 for the stage 8 locking bolts, but i never got around to putting the little locks on them

i checked the bolts after the 1st heat cycle, 1st week and at 1K miles and they were all still tight each time

i guess i got lucky