Loc Tite problem

wild70stang

New Member

Nov 11, 2005

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Feb 6, 2006

#1

• Feb 6, 2006

• #1

ok, after examining my oil sender because my oil pressure was low, I found out that some dip **** put lock tite on the ****ing threads:bang. Is there any solution or liquid that will eat away this stuff so I can remove the part?

 

rbohm

Founding Member

Apr 12, 2002

6,698

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204

tucson,az

Feb 6, 2006

#2

• Feb 6, 2006

• #2

two options here;

1: replace the extension as well as the sending unit, you can get one at most any mustang parts supplier.

2: grab a propane torch and heat the thread area, and let the heat loosen the lok tite.

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

1,945

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69

Minneapolis

Feb 7, 2006

#3

• Feb 7, 2006

• #3

One other option is a MAPP gas hand torch. They are much hotter than propane. I tried one once, and I'll never own another propane torch.

 

Jester67

Member

Sep 21, 2004

908

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TN

Feb 7, 2006

#4

• Feb 7, 2006

• #4

What loctite did you use the type and grade will determine the solution.

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Feb 7, 2006

#5

• Feb 7, 2006

• #5

Red loc-tite requires about 600 degrees to free up.

 

thehueypilot

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Feb 25, 2004

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Medina,Tennessee

Feb 7, 2006

#6

• Feb 7, 2006

• #6

Heat.............

 

wild70stang

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Nov 11, 2005

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Feb 7, 2006

#7

• Feb 7, 2006

• #7

U guys seriously think that I became stupid and put loc tite on the oil sender? Well I didnt . I dont have that much knowledge of the oil system so I dont even mess with it. I do know the basic parts, but I dont have special equipment to take parts of and such forth. But thanks for your guys imput.

 

J

John Z

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Sep 21, 2000

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Feb 7, 2006

#8

• Feb 7, 2006

• #8

wild70stang said:

U guys seriously think that I became stupid and put loc tite on the oil sender? Well I didnt . I dont have that much knowledge of the oil system so I dont even mess with it. I do know the basic parts, but I dont have special equipment to take parts of and such forth. But thanks for your guys imput.

Click to expand...

Thanks for reminding me of why I rarely visit this site any more. You ask a question and got reasonable answers. What posts suggested you're stupid???

 

geostang351

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Mar 30, 2005

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Danb., CT

Feb 7, 2006

#9

• Feb 7, 2006

• #9

I see no one slighting you wild.

 

6

6r09k******

New Member

Apr 17, 2005

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Brisbane, Australia

Feb 7, 2006

#10

• Feb 7, 2006

• #10

Although I don't think there is much in it (maybe a slight misread), but Jester67 did ask:

'What loctite did you use the type and grade will determine the solution'

It would be tough for wild70stang to work out what loctite was used on the oil sender without asking whoever done it, whenever it may have been done

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Feb 7, 2006

#11

• Feb 7, 2006

• #11

Use a heat gun.

Try to keep a flame away from anything that has gasoline tied to its usage.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Feb 7, 2006

#12

• Feb 7, 2006

• #12

WTF? Nobody even edited their posts if there was some kind of slight. Oh wait, jester insinuated that he put the loc-tite on there and asked what grade he used.

I will add this though, finding loc-tite in some strange places doesn't always mean some moron PO did it. Ford had a habit of using it in places you wouldn't expect.

 

wild70stang

New Member

Nov 11, 2005

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Feb 7, 2006

#13

• Feb 7, 2006

• #13

Jester asked what kind of loc tite that I used. Thats why I got a little annoyed. Sorry for being really pissed off but I may be new to cars, but im not careless with parts.

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Feb 7, 2006

#14

• Feb 7, 2006

• #14

wild70stang said:

Jester asked what kind of loc tite that I used. Thats why I got a little annoyed. Sorry for being really pissed off but I may be new to cars, but im not careless with parts.

Click to expand...

No problem so hang in there.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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Jester67

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Sep 21, 2004

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TN

Feb 7, 2006

#15

• Feb 7, 2006

• #15

wild70stang said:

Jester asked what kind of loc tite that I used. Thats why I got a little annoyed. Sorry for being really pissed off but I may be new to cars, but im not careless with parts.

Click to expand...

I am truly sorry if my response upset you that was not my intent I missed the some dip**** comment in your post and for the record loctite makes many types of thread sealant as well as thread lock. There have been some people mistakenly think that thread sealant also worked as a thread lock. I wonted to make sure it was not cross threaded so something.

 

2nd Mustang

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Feb 24, 2002

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Southern California

Feb 7, 2006

#16

• Feb 7, 2006

• #16

HistoricMustang said:

Use a heat gun.

Try to keep a flame away from anything that has gasoline tied to its usage.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

Click to expand...

Using a flame in an engine bay is very dangerous. It would just take some gasoline vapors to cause much damage and injury.

 

2nd Mustang

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Feb 24, 2002

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Feb 7, 2006

#17

• Feb 7, 2006

• #17

You posed an interesting problem, as I once had to sell a car with a bike rack attached to the rear bumper because I used Loctite on the threads and couldn't break the nut loose. I found this on their web site:

Removal/Clean Up


Q: What solvents can I use to remove liquid Loctite materials?

A: Most organic solvents are effective in removing anaerobic and cyanoacrylate adhesives. Chlorinated solvents are most commonly used. Dry MEK and acetone are used on applications using instant adhesives.

 

wild70stang

New Member

Nov 11, 2005

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Feb 7, 2006

#18

• Feb 7, 2006

• #18

Especially if their is oil deposites on the block where the oil sender is.

 

Jester67

Member

Sep 21, 2004

908

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TN

Feb 7, 2006

#19

• Feb 7, 2006

• #19

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=214&layout=2

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

 

65ShelbyClone

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Sep 9, 2000

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Antelope Valley, SoCal

Feb 8, 2006

#20

• Feb 8, 2006

• #20

Careful with the heat, and careful with the methylene chloride. It removes paint like nothing and burns like hell. Acetone does soften cyanoacrylate(superglue), but it doesnt remove it very well. I think red Loctite has a break-loose rating of 300ft-lbs or something rediculous.