Longtubes on stock motor?
- Thread starter sage2k
- Start date
The gains will not be off the chart on a stock motor but it should net about 10HP. Shorties would be a tad less. Long tubes shine later down the road with other mods. The install is a pain but shorties aren't that easy on our cars either. You will need an adjustable fuel regulator because the O2 sensors will be down stream on the header causing the computer to add more fuel. You will need to turn the fuel pressure down a bit. Another item needed is O2 extenders ($35 at Steeda, Pro-M, Brothers Performance, etc.).
CManT1914
New Member
As for the install, I think you have to loosen the motor mounts and raise the motor a bit. I also think you have to remove the steering linkage. I didn't do any of this with my shorty's because I did them when I had the heads off the car.
18mustangs
New Member
YEAHLOH95
Founding Member
that was the first mod i did to my car they don't have an egr hook up so i just capped it, and i ran the 02 extentions but no other tuneing mods, it ran strong with the exhaust mods and a cobra intake spring for the jet hot you won't regret it .
legalize420
Active Member
18mustangs said:That's what I had to do!
Tim
Same here. Still fairly simple install. Did mine in my driveway.
sage2k said:
Several years ago, some LT's for our cars came with an egr bung and some did not. Now a days, that is not a prob as they all seem to have the bung.
Most peeps run BBK or Mac.
I've seen both good and bad said about each brand.
I've had no probs of any kind with my Mac's for three years now btw.
I run the complete emissions system on my car and it causes no probs of any kind I have been able to find.
Some have have seen a prob with the O2's cooling off during long periods of idle driving conditions. I had a very slight case of it but was able to make a small adjustment with the pcm values which allowed a more stable idle.
btw, if you decide to not use O2 wiring extensions .....................
DO NOT splice the O2 harness
Do splice the car's wiring to the O2 harness
Grady
My 1 3/4 MAC long tubes came with the bung but I capped it. Also I had to basically pick the motor up off the k-member just to attempt to put those big primaries in. That won't be the case with the 1 5/8 tubes. I've installed several and I just jacked the motor up a bit and came in from the bottom. Steering shaft needs to be disconnected on the driver's side. Actually the hardest part for me was that damn oil dipstick. It needs to be rebent for it to fit. Buy the O2 extenders as it's just plug and play. My Steeda's were $34 and came with stainless steel covering.
VibrantRedGT said:
Slight hijack here but its still about LT's on our cars
Hey Joe!
I was not too happy with how 1 5/8 LT's covered the ports on my AFR's
I have been told, but have not had the opportunity to see for myself, 1 3/4 do not cover as bad as the smaller tubes.
Seeing as you have had experience with both sizes ............................
Do you have any comments about this?
btw ... your comment about the dipstick ..............................
Over the years I've seen so many peeps be frustrated with it when using LT's
but
like you ... a slight bend of the tube on my part and all was good to go
Grady
loudpedal99
New Member
I'm running Hooker LTs that were supposed to be for a foxbody. I didn't have to remove the steering linkage (the headers use a slip-fit primary to go around the steering shaft w/o removing it), or loosen motor mounts, but I did delete the egr and the smog at the same time; I think it would have been a B*TCH with all that smog crap right there. Overall, zero problems in the 3 months they've been on.
legalize420
Active Member
sage2k said:
yes it will fit, the only time you need the extension piece is when using an intake spacer.
If your running the stock crimped EGR tube you should have lenght to attach it...I was able to use it with mine even with a 1/2" spacer...so there's extra lenght in the crimping...just stretch it some..
I run the MAC LTs...def spring for the ceramic if the money allows....will help keep the heat in some which helps with the 02 readings...
I added a Kirban to lean the fuel out some at first...it was puking Black after the install..
M-6750-C303 dipstick out of the FRPP catalog will put the stick back in the stock location and bolt right back to the header...you can get by with the stock one by swinging it over towards the fender some to get by...
The chrome Macs is what I got as the ceramic wasn't out yet...they gonna turn Blue and heat tint real quick...
I run the MAC LTs...def spring for the ceramic if the money allows....will help keep the heat in some which helps with the 02 readings...
I added a Kirban to lean the fuel out some at first...it was puking Black after the install..
M-6750-C303 dipstick out of the FRPP catalog will put the stick back in the stock location and bolt right back to the header...you can get by with the stock one by swinging it over towards the fender some to get by...
The chrome Macs is what I got as the ceramic wasn't out yet...they gonna turn Blue and heat tint real quick...
final5-0 said:Slight hijack here but its still about LT's on our cars
Hey Joe!
I was not too happy with how 1 5/8 LT's covered the ports on my AFR's
I have been told, but have not had the opportunity to see for myself, 1 3/4 do not cover as bad as the smaller tubes.
Seeing as you have had experience with both sizes ............................
Do you have any comments about this?
btw ... your comment about the dipstick ..............................
Over the years I've seen so many peeps be frustrated with it when using LT's
but
like you ... a slight bend of the tube on my part and all was good to go
Grady
Grady, my headers needed a slight massage on the inside welds of every port (die grinder). I don't recall doing that with the 1 5/8 I had. Suprisingly I don't have any leaks anywhere around the AFR's. I'm using the copper gaskets that MAC supplied with the headers and regular 11MM header bolts. Nothing special here at all. I am annoyed with MAC's new cat back design but that's a different story.
When I had the 1 5/8 the dipstick had nothing to hold onto at the top. I finally got fed up and bolted it to the master cylinder stud with a nut. On these the Canton dipstick (or any dipstick for that matter) took sometime bending and molding. Total pain in my ass and waste of almost two hours.
Sorry for the hijack.
Chowder Head
Member
CManT1914 said:
Sorry for being new to car mods, but can someone explain to me how this is done exactly? I plan on getting a full exhaust, with LT's as soon as I get enough cash so I'm trying to get enough information as possible.
Is there a special way to remove the steering linkage? Or is it held by a screw or something? And when you guys are talking about jacking up the engine, how is this done? And the K-member, where is this located at?
Thank you much for anyone who can shed some light on this noobs questions.
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