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Looking For A Proven Cleaner

  • Thread starter Thread starter jcgafford
  • Start date Start date May 15, 2012
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Gearbanger 101

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May 17, 2012
#21
  • May 17, 2012
  • #21
Yes, the lower will have to be swapped out.....but all that'll cost you is a set of new intake gaskets, a bucket to catch the antifreeze and some time.

As for the no start issues...I agree, could be starter on it's way out. Couldn't hurt to run the car for codes. You can pick up a scanner at Walmart for about $20.
 

jcgafford

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May 17, 2012
#22
  • May 17, 2012
  • #22
Gearbanger 101 said:
Yes, the lower will have to be swapped out.....but all that'll cost you is a set of new intake gaskets, a bucket to catch the antifreeze and some time.

As for the no start issues...I agree, could be starter on it's way out. Couldn't hurt to run the car for codes. You can pick up a scanner at Walmart for about $20.
Click to expand...
thats a whole different story. lets just say i can't pull codes, but am working on it... and i did pick up the obd1 scanner
 

jcgafford

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#23
  • May 18, 2012
  • #23
okay, got the valve covers and the upper intake off. now it is decision time... powdercoat them, chrome them or sell them and go with something "nicer". Advice?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#24
  • May 18, 2012
  • #24
id go with an explorer intake and high temp paint in "aluminum" the explorer intakes come bare aluminum from ford
 

jcgafford

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#25
  • May 18, 2012
  • #25
srtthis said:
id go with an explorer intake and high temp paint in "aluminum" the explorer intakes come bare aluminum from ford
Click to expand...
i know everyone says that its basically your best bang for the buck. But it has to look stock. Looking for pics of this mod, if it passes the "stock" look test then I will start hunting one down.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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#26
  • May 18, 2012
  • #26
 

jcgafford

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#27
  • May 18, 2012
  • #27
stykthyn said:
Click to expand...
Really???? Well damn, guess it passes. So I need the upper and lower from a 1996 explorer v8 and everything bolts up? Anything else off a 96 I should grab for this swap?
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#28
  • May 18, 2012
  • #28
throttle body... heads (needs valve springs)... injectors...
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#29
  • May 18, 2012
  • #29


if you keep the exploder plaque it looks like this
 

jcgafford

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#30
  • May 18, 2012
  • #30
Alright, so what price am I looking at as "good". Don't want to get taken at the salvage yard.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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May 18, 2012
#31
  • May 18, 2012
  • #31
I bought a ported one shipped to my door for 150. I wouldn't pay more tgan that. If you pull it from a yard I wouldn't pay over 100
 

jcgafford

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#32
  • May 18, 2012
  • #32
Good info, I'll start hunting around. Worst case I powder coat mine and put them back on.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#33
  • May 18, 2012
  • #33
i paid 48 from a U pull it yard
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 10, 2002
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May 18, 2012
#34
  • May 18, 2012
  • #34
srtthis said:
id go with an explorer intake and high temp paint in "aluminum" the explorer intakes come bare aluminum from ford
Click to expand...
Mine didn't.

jcgafford said:
Really???? Well damn, guess it passes. So I need the upper and lower from a 1996 explorer v8 and everything bolts up? Anything else off a 96 I should grab for this swap?
Click to expand...
The reason I suggested the '96/early-97 intake is because it will allow you to retain your existing EGR system. If you plan on bypassing it like some do, then feel free to go with one from a later model. But since you said you wanted it to look "factory", I figured that meant keeping your EGR.

jcgafford said:
Alright, so what price am I looking at as "good". Don't want to get taken at the salvage yard.
Click to expand...
I bought an entire low mileage '96 Explorer engine for $300 from a local wrecker.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
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Maryland
May 18, 2012
#35
  • May 18, 2012
  • #35
yours was painted from ford?
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 10, 2002
9,457
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234
Ontario, Canada
May 18, 2012
#36
  • May 18, 2012
  • #36
srtthis said:
yours was painted from ford?
Click to expand...

Yup....although it could very well just be a clear coat of some type, but it's definitely not bare. You can still see bits of it flaking off in this pic....

View attachment 149520

Gonna have to sand blast the whole thing and start from scratch.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
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May 18, 2012
#37
  • May 18, 2012
  • #37
Wow.... Mine was bare. Or at least looked like it. I hosed it down with brake clean then painted it
 

ratio411

Founding Member
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May 19, 2012
#38
  • May 19, 2012
  • #38
Got mine for 70 bux with all the rails, sensors, TB, IAC, ect...
Mine was painted... It's a silver paint, not as gray as the older 5.0 intake paint.

The TB must be modded. The throttle arm is not oriented correctly for the HOs.
Couple of other little things too, don't recall them all... but I remember the rails weren't right either.
Depending on the year, you could get the better 4 hole 19# injectors... but IIRC some of the later ones use the different plug, meaning your harness won't plug into the top of the injector.

Some other variations between years are the internal and external EGR plumbing as mentioned, and the placement of the IAT sensor. Some have the boss for the IAT, but you have to drill and tap it. Easy cheezy, so long as you are expecting to do it, and don't find out it needs doing AFTER you have installed the lower.

We used the heater pipes for our application after some modding, but for a stock for stock swap, I assume you would prefer the Fox pipes. There IS a difference between them.

Another observation...
Why does everyone leave that 'ear' stuck off the side of the intake when they swap?
I think it bolted down a bracket to anchor a cable? Throttle linkage?
It shaves right off in seconds... Leaves a nice clean look.
The pic shows the intake without the 'ear' on the side, and the red shows some of the silver paint flakes that didn't want to come off.
That is some TOUGH paint.
 

jcgafford

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#39
  • May 19, 2012
  • #39
hmmm. I have done quite a few searches and not found a complete "how to" on this stock looking mod. Seems as time goes on I learn of more and more things that have to be changed to allow for it. It is loosing its appeal to me quickly, I like stock (for now). If it is a bolt on stock appearing deal that has a good bonus for the car and other systems don't have to be altered then it is a consideration. This one is quickly falling out of that catagory.
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
3,870
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109
Pensacola FL
May 19, 2012
#40
  • May 19, 2012
  • #40
It's not as bad as it sounds.
We let you know what to look out for so you get the easiest possible parts for your particular swap.

With the correct bare upper and lower (someone will correct me if I am wrong), you could swap ALL of your parts over directly, even TB (if you don't want to mod the larger one).
 
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