Looking For A Proven Cleaner

Yes, the lower will have to be swapped out.....but all that'll cost you is a set of new intake gaskets, a bucket to catch the antifreeze and some time.

As for the no start issues...I agree, could be starter on it's way out. Couldn't hurt to run the car for codes. You can pick up a scanner at Walmart for about $20.
 
Yes, the lower will have to be swapped out.....but all that'll cost you is a set of new intake gaskets, a bucket to catch the antifreeze and some time.

As for the no start issues...I agree, could be starter on it's way out. Couldn't hurt to run the car for codes. You can pick up a scanner at Walmart for about $20.
thats a whole different story. lets just say i can't pull codes, but am working on it... and i did pick up the obd1 scanner
 
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id go with an explorer intake and high temp paint in "aluminum" the explorer intakes come bare aluminum from ford
Mine didn't.

Really???? Well damn, guess it passes. So I need the upper and lower from a 1996 explorer v8 and everything bolts up? Anything else off a 96 I should grab for this swap?
The reason I suggested the '96/early-97 intake is because it will allow you to retain your existing EGR system. If you plan on bypassing it like some do, then feel free to go with one from a later model. But since you said you wanted it to look "factory", I figured that meant keeping your EGR.

Alright, so what price am I looking at as "good". Don't want to get taken at the salvage yard.
I bought an entire low mileage '96 Explorer engine for $300 from a local wrecker.
 
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Got mine for 70 bux with all the rails, sensors, TB, IAC, ect...
Mine was painted... It's a silver paint, not as gray as the older 5.0 intake paint.

The TB must be modded. The throttle arm is not oriented correctly for the HOs.
Couple of other little things too, don't recall them all... but I remember the rails weren't right either.
Depending on the year, you could get the better 4 hole 19# injectors... but IIRC some of the later ones use the different plug, meaning your harness won't plug into the top of the injector.

Some other variations between years are the internal and external EGR plumbing as mentioned, and the placement of the IAT sensor. Some have the boss for the IAT, but you have to drill and tap it. Easy cheezy, so long as you are expecting to do it, and don't find out it needs doing AFTER you have installed the lower.

We used the heater pipes for our application after some modding, but for a stock for stock swap, I assume you would prefer the Fox pipes. There IS a difference between them.

Another observation...
Why does everyone leave that 'ear' stuck off the side of the intake when they swap?
I think it bolted down a bracket to anchor a cable? Throttle linkage?
It shaves right off in seconds... Leaves a nice clean look.
The pic shows the intake without the 'ear' on the side, and the red shows some of the silver paint flakes that didn't want to come off.
That is some TOUGH paint.
 
hmmm. I have done quite a few searches and not found a complete "how to" on this stock looking mod. Seems as time goes on I learn of more and more things that have to be changed to allow for it. It is loosing its appeal to me quickly, I like stock (for now). If it is a bolt on stock appearing deal that has a good bonus for the car and other systems don't have to be altered then it is a consideration. This one is quickly falling out of that catagory.
 
It's not as bad as it sounds.
We let you know what to look out for so you get the easiest possible parts for your particular swap.

With the correct bare upper and lower (someone will correct me if I am wrong), you could swap ALL of your parts over directly, even TB (if you don't want to mod the larger one).