Looking For Ideas For My New Milling Machine

[tos]

Yeah i machine mostly 6061. It machines real well and polishes up real nice.

 

[GOvert]

tos, In a few months I want to get you to make me an axle drilling template. Would 3/4" 6061 work well for this? Where it bolts to the axle could be machined out for the bevels on the lug nuts much like an adaptor spacer. Again, no rush and I could PM you the details. Thanks, Greg

 

[zookeeper]

Just a little tip, I’ve made templates for members here in the past. You really should use steel or install drill bushings. A drill bit will move in the aluminum, chewing it up. The ones I made, I drilled two of the holes to 1/2” to allow the template to bolt into the car. I made the other two holes 1/4” to allow the person drilling the holes to use a 1/4” bit to make a pilot hole, then remove the template and drill the holes to 1/2”. I’ve read articles recommending 17/32” holes, but I wouldn’t. Any slop will allow the 1/2” stud to move, ruining the shock tower eventually. Just some ideas from someone who’s been there.

 

[GOvert]

I was thinking of a steel sleeve made out of a grade 8 bolt, the smooth shoulder part with a pilot hole that would move from hole to hole as each one was being drilled. 1/2" steel sleeve, 1/4" pilot hole in it, hold sleeve with vise grips to keep sleeve from spinning and ruining the template. Then remove template and enlarge the holes to accept the stock Ford lug/stud splined shoulder. Does this sound workable?

 

[tos]

Yeah, shouldnt be a problem. I would also suggest steel bushing if you will be useing it several times. I make shelby/arning drop jigs out of 6061 and they work well but dont know how they will hold up long term for drilling multiple times. Send me any info you can and ill let you know what i can do/suggest.

 

[zookeeper]

I was thinking of a steel sleeve made out of a grade 8 bolt, the smooth shoulder part with a pilot hole that would move from hole to hole as each one was being drilled. 1/2" steel sleeve, 1/4" pilot hole in it, hold sleeve with vise grips to keep sleeve from spinning and ruining the template. Then remove template and enlarge the holes to accept the stock Ford lug/stud splined shoulder. Does this sound workable?

As a machinist, I’d prefer to see you use purpose-made drill bushings. McMaster- Carr sells them, then use a -.001” reamer to give them a press fit into the template. Also, drill and ream the holes for the splined wheel studs to give it a chance to succeed. It’s too hard to hold size with just a drill. If you’re trying to redrill Ford axles, be aware that you can’t just shift the pattern between existing holes due to the access hole in Ford flanges. The existing holes need to be welded and re drilled to the new pattern.