Looking to buy 70 Mach 1, got some ?'s first.

[19stang66]

So heres the deal. My dad just found a 1970 Mach 1 in the local paper last night. The rest of my family is going to the cabin this weekend but i'll be home alone (partay[]) and my dad wanted me to go check it out because he think it might be a steal. Here is what the listing says:

1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1
-restored condition, built 351 C, auto, factory air,
-new paint, interior, exhaust, wheels, tires, more.
-Price reduced $16,900 OBO

Now I dont know anything about 67 and later stangs because I have a 66. So what I need to know is what questions to ask him and what problem areas should I look for. Could someone make a list or something so I bring it with me when I go to look at it or when I call him first? Do you think that is a fair price or should it be lower? I guess I can check ebay for similar cars and see what they are going for. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks.

 

[68keyblr]

On a "restored" car you need to really look hard for rust that has been painted over or hidden. Be suspicious of fresh paint. Here's my list to check:

RUST CHECKS:
1. Get under dash with a flashlight and look at the cowl.
2. Get under the car and look at the seat pans for rust through
3. Check the whole underside of the car for rust
4. See if you can remove the back seat bench (should just pull out) - check the floor in this area. If it's nasty then you know they put fresh carpet over bad floor pans.
5. Battery tray area

ENGINE:
1. Pull the plugs. Pay attention to oil fouled plugs in particular as this is a signal for bad rings/tired engine.
2. Do a leak down test if possible
3. Look for oil and transmission leaks, but don't be too concerned over minor leaks
4. Look at the coolant. If the coolant is anything but a nice shade of green then take a closer look. If it's rust from a poorly maintained cooling system the radiator may be shot and the water pump could be corroded. Look for oil in the coolant that would signal bad head gasket.
5. Check for dead cylinders by starting the car and dripping water on each header tube. If the water doesn't sizzle and evaporate almost instantly then that cylinder is not firing.

BODY
1. Look at the gaps between body panels...are they straight and uniform?
2. Check for fitment of trunk lid - if it's off one way or the other this could mean that the car has been hit on the rear quarter.
3. Look for small bubbling and/or paint flaking, especially at the bottom of the doors and on the lower part of the quarters.
4. Be very suspicious of fresh paint! If they painted the car knowing they were going to sell it, then it's probably a cheap paint job! As it dries out over time, poor bodywork and flaws will become clear.
5. Take a tape measure and measure the height to the ground at the top of each wheel well. They should be pretty close to each other - not more than an inch or so of variation for the fronts. Same for the backs.

SUSPENSION/UNIBODY
1. Check the rubber bushings in all of the suspension components. If they are cracked or dry rotted, plan on replacing all of them. Overall cleanliness here is a good indicator of how well the car was cared for.
2. Push down on each corner of the car. It should bounce back up once then settle back down. If ti continues bouncing then the shock is shot.
3. Look under the car for any signs of damage or repairs. Subframe connectors are a big plus.

BRAKES
1. Check the soft lines for cracking/dry rot. If they are in bad shape then chance are the whole brake system is in need of attention.
2. Look for signs of leaks
3. Pedal should be firm and not drop more than a few inches under pressure.
4. Check the brake fluid in the Master Cylinder. Should be clear if its fresh.

ROAD TEST
1. Make sure car tracks straight with no hands on the wheel
2. Make sure car stops straight with no hands on the wheel.
3. Pay attenting to shifting - make sure it's smooth and firm. Listen for loud clunks.
4. Check steering. If the car tends to wander on the road then may need new steering box, tie rods, etc etc.
5. Acceleration should be smooth and pull strong with that 351C motor.

That's all I can think of for now. Good luck!

 

[19stang66]

wow thats awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll print this out and bring it with me.

 

[19stang66]

another question, where is the body tag and vin #'s on a 1970 mustang?

 

[danny clemens]

another question, where is the body tag and vin #'s on a 1970 mustang?

There will be a small tag in the windshield on the driver's side lower corner.

New paint always scares me too. Sounds like he just fixed it up to sell.