Looking to finally buy a 5.0...is this one modded ok?

Hey guys,
I have been on here occassionally, reading and what not. Been wanting to buy a mustang for years but the marriage, baby, house, you know.........

But first off...is this is in the wrong forum, please feel free to move. I think it is in the correct area.

Anyways, I found one that I am going to look at and wanted to know advice on it.....like is what has been done good?

Also, just wondering what to look out for. And then I have to figure what to offer! I really want to get a mustang into the 12's and have it as a strip car with the occassional one day a week driver. I found this one local and the guy seems to want to negotiate. I plan on going to look at it this week and asked about a test drive and he is said it is neither registered nor insured so he is not keen about it. But I think we can agree on a few blocks, hopefully, cause I won't buy without a test drive.

It is a 1988 mustang GT.
The engine has been bored over to be a 308 with new pistons that has not been driven yet. It is a 5 speed with new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing.
It has trickflow heads, ARP head studs, Scorpion Roller Rockers, 24lb injectors, and GT 40 upper and lower.
Also has new BBK equal length shorty headers, catless X-pipe, subframe connectors, new water pump, power steering pump, alternator, power steering brackets, walboro 255 fuel pump, 31 spline strange axles, eaton posi, and 4:11s.
 
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it's kind of weird to do work like that and not drive it. When I finish something, it's break-in, and drive pretty much while the fluids are still being filled; if you know what I mean. the shear excitement alone.

generally, when something breaks, people rebuild & sell right away to get the "headache" of their plate and make it someone else's problem. Honestly, without seeing the car and just making an internet decision, I wouldn't buy it. But maybe not and it never hurts to check it out. Make sure when you go its not all warmed up either.

personally, if it were me, i'd spend a little extra for a close-as-you-can to stock car as possible because I know the quality when I do the work.
 
it's kind of weird to do work like that and not drive it. When I finish something, it's break-in, and drive pretty much while the fluids are still being filled; if you know what I mean. the shear excitement alone.

generally, when something breaks, people rebuild & sell right away to get the "headache" of their plate and make it someone else's problem. Honestly, without seeing the car and just making an internet decision, I wouldn't buy it. But maybe not and it never hurts to check it out. Make sure when you go its not all warmed up either.

personally, if it were me, i'd spend a little extra for a close-as-you-can to stock car as possible because I know the quality when I do the work.

thanks. I complete appreciate it. I am taking my cousin with me to give it a look (he is on his third mustang which is an 11). BTW...nice avatar...I got a 2010 ram.......
 
There certainly is a trade off with purchasing a "project" that is yet to be finished.

If it is running, driving, and all the bugs are worked out they may want more money.

If you can 100% confirm that he is selling what is advertised (rebuild, pistons, etc...) then it will be your call to if you want to try for a lower purchase price knowing full well that you are going to have some bugs to work out if it isn't even running.

Personally - If you really like the car, I would work out a deal where he at least gets it running to the point where you can take it around the block to verify that the engine runs strong and it shifts ok. If it's a take it "as is" then you need to verify the parts and throw your lowest offer assuming a number of unexpected little things.

Just my $0.02 and take some photos if you check it out in person.

K
 
I appreciate this advice. Something as small as coolant hoses are missing.....which is a concern. No way I would pay 5K for something like this right now. I will take a look tonight and gauge it out. I mean it needs a tune and if anything, I might get to drive it a block.

There certainly is a trade off with purchasing a "project" that is yet to be finished.

If it is running, driving, and all the bugs are worked out they may want more money.

If you can 100% confirm that he is selling what is advertised (rebuild, pistons, etc...) then it will be your call to if you want to try for a lower purchase price knowing full well that you are going to have some bugs to work out if it isn't even running.

Personally - If you really like the car, I would work out a deal where he at least gets it running to the point where you can take it around the block to verify that the engine runs strong and it shifts ok. If it's a take it "as is" then you need to verify the parts and throw your lowest offer assuming a number of unexpected little things.

Just my $0.02 and take some photos if you check it out in person.

K
 
My advice, save that 5K and wait for something better. Trust me it may look good now, but next month there will be another that looks even better. Also, pictures are worth a thousand words. Anyways, your money good luck. :nice:
 
Just buy a roller for 400-800 and take the 4 grand extra and build your own. Go to a junkyard and get a 5.0 with all the accessories and pay someone to do the block work and you can assemble it. At least you'll learn something in the process.

Window shopping never hurts, at least you can make a thread on here and people will take it seriously. They will all point you in the right direction, youll get the best bang for the buck when people with years of experience give you there .02.

And its never a good idea to spend all your savings on a car. Especially a mustang.....
 
Thanks guys,
I appreciate the honesty. I am going to look at it with two friends tonight (both who own mustangs and one who knows his stuff...at least I think) and gauge it out.

I think this is going to come down to "how low will he go"

Parts and all sound good, but how it runs and all is a different story. 5K is way too much for this. I gotta see what he would be willing to let it go at and then weigh out the potential hazards.
 
post some pix, make sure you bring a flashlight. and if i were you id go to autozone and pick up a compression tester so you can test all the cylinders. just make sure you confirm that its okay with the seller.

I always bring

Flashlight
Compression tester
Coolant pressure tester
Jack with 2 jackstands
Tool Kit
Test Light
ohm meter
pry bar
and a piece of cardboard lol

Be carefull and best of luck :nice:
 
well i saw it tonight. I would give the body and interior a 9/10. No rust, interior is immaculate considering the age.
It has no wipers, needs coolant hoses, vacuum hoses, tune up, and welding of a new trans cross member, timing adjustment, and harmonizer.
Guy would come down on price a bit he said.