Loose rockers. Silver oil.

SN95.ONASTY

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May 15, 2022
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How’s it going. I’m Nick (late as hell to post!) sorry. But could really use any advice/help as for how bxxchy these sn95.0 computers can be. She’s mostly stock except for deletes. Charcoal canister, and EGR delete. Ported and polished lower intake. Smog delete. New harmonic balancer which is the only thing I can think of why my car sounded like it had a major exhaust leak. Then went to sone what of a tapping noise, (never driven just started) before I noticed the bad balancer with sone of the rubber seal in the middle starting to pop out. And after I put the new balancer. Me being me I checked the oil after checking everything else I could think of ( some plugs were fuel soaked and oil/fuel was in upper intake) and damn the worst silver sharpie liquid colored oil I’ve seen in my life 2 lifters turned
a bit out of place, rockers for em were loose of course. Could the computer really be not liking the deletes or ported lower intake that much? It didn’t seem to like EGR delete for sure, which I still haven’t fully figured out as for keeping the sensor/pintle halfway in or not. And how the computer responds to it. Hope my cam isn’t wiped out. Haven’t even pulled the oil pan yet. Any help/input is really appreciated. She hasn’t been on the road for 6 months and has been a money pit but she’s my baby! Thanks y’all too
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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You bought the car this way?
The first thing I would do, after the lifter/silver oil thing is investigated, would be to put the charcoal canister and purge valve back on. It vents the fuel vapors and helps with part throttle cruise. The fuel tank is a 'closed' vent system.
A valve train inspection is needed, the metal in the oil has traveled throughout the engine and may have impacted the bearings.
 
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KRUISR

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The lifter/silver oil thing TO ME sounds like your engine killed the cam (made the lobes smaller and hence why lifter is loose and silver soup in oil).

The oil/fuel in upper intake could be a missing screen below the PVC valve.
 
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96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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You said two of the lifters turned? Like they weren’t in the dog bones?
 
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SN95.ONASTY

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Bought the car stock, besides cat delete, tune the dealer said( been trying to contact previous owner) New timing chain, water pump, hose’s. I knew that was a sign right there but me being me excited as hell to own her I didn’t pay as much attention
I I should have? Forgot to mention I had to replace the distributor. I agree should put the Emissions Stuff back. Well the canister and EGR cuz she hated the egr delete. Couldn’t figure out how to CORRECTLY do that smh. Pintle in half way? Leave it out? How sensitive are these computers? Gonna pull the chain cover next so the motor will be ready to be pulled when I can. Unfortunately I also think the cam is . shot Too. Preciate the feedback y’all!
 

SN95.ONASTY

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You said two of the lifters turned? Like they weren’t in the dog bones?
Yes. Not much but… they’re turned… when I pulled the lower intake I found 1 dog bone just chillen in the valley. Another was up out of place a bit . Luckily I didn’t drive it cuz of how it sounded. Just multiple start ups trying diagnose
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Well with this info, I wouldn't do much investigating, find another engine or rebuild this one, since you have the lower intake off, check the passenger side of the back intake rail, there is a machined flat area that has several numbers, that will match the last numbers of the vin. Use a strong light and a magnifying glass or the zoom feature on a phone. That will tell you if it's the original block.
 
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SN95.ONASTY

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Well with this info, I wouldn't do much investigating, find another engine or rebuild this one, since you have the lower intake off, check the passenger side of the back intake rail, there is a machined flat area that has several numbers, that will match the last numbers of the vin. Use a strong light and a magnifying glass or the zoom feature on a phone. That will tell you if it's the original block.
Thanks man
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
May 15, 2018
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Yes. Not much but… they’re turned… when I pulled the lower intake I found 1 dog bone just chillen in the valley. Another was up out of place a bit . Luckily I didn’t drive it cuz of how it sounded. Just multiple start ups trying diagnose
Take the lifter out and look at the roller. Also look at the cam lobe. Take pictures and post them here if you’re unsure.

As a general rule, if the lifter turns in the bore, even for a short amount of time at idle then it will make metal. As their both hard, it’ll trash bearings that it comes in contact with.
 

SN95.ONASTY

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Take the lifter out and look at the roller. Also look at the cam lobe. Take pictures and post them here if you’re unsure.

As a general rule, if the lifter turns in the bore, even for a short amount of time at idle then it will make metal. As their both hard, it’ll trash bearings that it comes in contact with.
Okay will do. Thanks again
 

CAMTWO1070

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If the lifters turned in their bores, you're tearing down the engine.
Umm hydraulic flat tappet lifters are supposed to spin,,,If you look under a loop on how the bottoms of hydraulic lifters are lapped they have a raised up part on the middle...

Its when lifters DONT spin theres problems......Using thick sticky assembly lube on the sides of the lifters is bad especially if the engine is gonna sit for more than 2 weeks.,.....

Youre only supposed to put moly lube on the bottoms of the lifters and regular 10w/30 motor oil on the sides and then prime the engine prior to first start-up...

FYI Piston rings spin on the pistons too as they break in thats why roughness averages during honing are important to getting a good break-in and seal..........
 
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96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
May 15, 2018
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Umm hydraulic flat tappet lifters are supposed to spin,,,If you look under a loop on how the bottoms of hydraulic lifters are lapped they have a raised up part on the middle...

Its when lifters DONT spin theres problems......Using thick sticky assembly lube on the sides of the lifters is bad especially if the engine is gonna sit for more than 2 weeks.,.....

Youre only supposed to put moly lube on the bottoms of the lifters and regular 10w/30 motor oil on the sides and then prime the engine prior to first start-up...

FYI Piston rings spin on the pistons too as they break in thats why roughness averages during honing are important to getting a good break-in and seal..........
Yeah… but since this is in a 94/95 forum it’s pretty much assumed he has a roller engine.
 
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Monkeybutt2000

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Umm hydraulic flat tappet lifters are supposed to spin,,,If you look under a loop on how the bottoms of hydraulic lifters are lapped they have a raised up part on the middle...

Its when lifters DONT spin theres problems......Using thick sticky assembly lube on the sides of the lifters is bad especially if the engine is gonna sit for more than 2 weeks.,.....

Youre only supposed to put moly lube on the bottoms of the lifters and regular 10w/30 motor oil on the sides and then prime the engine prior to first start-up...

FYI Piston rings spin on the pistons too as they break in thats why roughness averages during honing are important to getting a good break-in and seal..........
Umm,we're ASSUMING this is a roller,as it's allegedly a stock 94-95 block. And,I know piston rings are supposed to rotate as well...
 

KRUISR

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I assume it is a roller cam as well from what OP said in post #9 ..
when I pulled the lower intake I found 1 dog bone just chillen in the valley.
That would be roller lifter rotated = chewed cam = silver oil soup
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Thanks man

It's probably in your best interest to replace the engine. If you pulled the intake, then you probably have the mechanical ability to replace the engine. If you just want a stock 5.0, the autoparts store rebuilt engines are a bargain. I know they get a bad rap, and they are definitely not racecar ready engines, but I have installed dozens of them without a problem. They get the job done and have a warranty.

Kurt
 
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