Loss of Power

kpack5982

Yeah, it was pretty stiff, but eventually a buddy
Jul 13, 2005
325
1
19
Granger, IA
So the car is running fine with the iac all cleaned, tps is running the right volts and i have a brand new, clean maf. Problem is when I gun it i notice that about 3500 rpm it seems to bog down, less acceleration. Can't really notice in first cause it winds up so fast with the 373s but definitely in 2nd and 3rd. Any ideas what I could do, or is that just where the limitation of the stock intake is, I thought it was higher up than that, but I dunno? HELP?!?!?
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
 
I thought the check engine light had to be on in order to pull codes........learn something everyday. I had a car do that to once, ended up being a fueling problem, or lack of sufficient fuel pressure.