Low Idle, Throttle kills it

JordanB21 · Jan 16, 2013

So I recently did that install with the fan controller, and removed my air silencer.
The only things I dealt with were the battery, which isn't really related and removing the MAF, and intake.

Some things I did were, air spray out the MAF, throttle body inlet, throttle body to MAF arm, and the air filter along with removing the air silencer.
I didn't mess with anything else airbox related.

I'm going to go back outside and look around at it. But any ideas why I might be idling at 400-500 RPMs? On some starts it'll idle at 300 and just die, I can count the cylinder's firing.

So close to driving it! and then right back in the gutter:/

94GTCoupe · Jan 16, 2013

What did you spray it with?
I use a spray designed for the MAF.

Did you remove the MAF sensor from its housing, or just spray the entire thing down?

Maybe you sprayed some junk onto the sensor itself.

Try removing the MAF sensor from its housing and cleaning it.
You need a tamper proof torx bit, I forget the size.

JordanB21 · Jan 16, 2013

davis3 said:
What did you spray it with?
I use a spray designed for the MAF.

Did you remove the MAF sensor from its housing, or just spray the entire thing down?

Maybe you sprayed some junk onto the sensor itself.

Try removing the MAF sensor from its housing and cleaning it.
You need a tamper proof torx bit, I forget the size.

I just removed the housing section its self, and I sprayed it out with air out of a compressor.
The metal grate it has between the filter and MAF had a collection of large grass like particles. My hands were on the inner side of the MAF is all.
I was mostly blowing it for dust.
But I'll try that too, cleaning it that is.

gearheadboy · Jan 16, 2013

Take the sensor out of the tube. Spray it with brake cleaner or MAF cleaner. You have to hose the little wires good and even touch them with a little piece of paper towel sometimes.

JordanB21 · Jan 16, 2013

gearheadboy said:
Take the sensor out of the tube. Spray it with brake cleaner or MAF cleaner. You have to hose the little wires good and even touch them with a little piece of paper towel sometimes.

Think that'll fix my idle issue? What did I even do? lol

I'll buy some tomorrow.

Also to add a bit to the story.
I actually had the car idling fine, I went to air the tires up, and then it died after idling for a good 10 minutes.

gearheadboy · Jan 16, 2013

Did you unhook the battery? Mine ran like poo when I unhooked the battery every day. It never relearns. Once I fixed my battery drain and left it hooked up, it learned to idle again.

JordanB21 · Jan 16, 2013

gearheadboy said:
Did you unhook the battery? Mine ran like poo when I unhooked the battery every day. It never relearns. Once I fixed my battery drain and left it hooked up, it learned to idle again.

Two days ago I did, but not since.
And the day of it ran fine, and today too, up until the random issue arose.

Basiclly my hands were in around all parts of the intake except the throttle body and back. ACT ensor I unplugged several times, I never unplugged the MAF.

Just wanted to give some extra information.
Is it safe to use Carb Cleaner on the ACT sensor and the MAF sensor(I already have a can of carb cleaner)?

JordanB21 · Jan 17, 2013

Today I cleaned the MAF sensor and it did nothing, I'm sure it'll be a huge difference once it runs properly though so I'm glad I did it anyways.

After cleaning it ran exactly the same, it wouldn't really idle, it would turn over, and the starter would keep making attempts and it would idle at about 300 to 400 RPMs for about a second and a half and die off again.
I did try running it with the ACT unplugged and then again with it plugged in, it made no difference either way.

Here are some pics of the cleaning though!
The Dirty Wires

And when I cleaned it off, cost me 10 dollars for the set of bits since they were tamper proof, and 5 for the brake cleaner which was buy 1 get one free. So now I have two cans of brake cleaner. lol

94GTCoupe · Jan 17, 2013

Time to check the codes.

gearheadboy · Jan 17, 2013

Clear the codes. Drive it and then check codes. You probably set a ton of them from experimenting. Did it run fine before hand? What did you tap into for your fan?

jka · Jan 17, 2013

When you did the work did you just remove the neg battery cable or both? Try removing both cables for 30mins then connect them start your car and let it idle for a few mins then drive for 10/15 miles. If this does not work ..time to check code and wiring plus vacuum hoses.

JordanB21 · Jan 18, 2013

gearheadboy said:
Clear the codes. Drive it and then check codes. You probably set a ton of them from experimenting. Did it run fine before hand? What did you tap into for your fan?

Well the problem with checking codes is I can't keep it running to check the codes. I can't drive it either, if I do get it to stay on for a minute at that 300 RPMs any throttle will kill it, in park, neutral, drive, or reverse. It's not going anywhere right now.
It ran before hand fine, and I tapped into Pin #13 on the CCRM for key on power. The only other thing is it gets its ground and actual power to the relay directly from the battery. Disconnecting the relay from the battery did nothing.
And like I said, it was running fine while I was airing up the tires, but then randomly turned off, and then the issue occured with this idle thing.

jka said:
When you did the work did you just remove the neg battery cable or both? Try removing both cables for 30mins then connect them start your car and let it idle for a few mins then drive for 10/15 miles. If this does not work ..time to check code and wiring plus vacuum hoses.

I did remove the negative today, it did nothing different after putting it back on. Ill try the both removed and wait 30 minutes. but if it doesn't start up correctly, like I said, it won't be doing any of that driving and relearning.

My vacuum hoses didn't change (other than reconnecting apart of the smog pump [see other thread]).

Call me clueless, but don't I need to have the car running to check/pull codes? I only ever did it once before with a friend like a year ago.

HISSIN50 · Jan 18, 2013

In case I missed it, you're sure no spark plug wires came loose during the installation?

There's no residual spray left in the intake tract, is there? That'll make the car run like crap till it clears out. Did the car run for awhile after you hosed the intake tract down?
The cleaning of the TB might have caused the IAC to start acting up. You haven't actually removed the IAC and cleaned it, have you? Doing so can help but it can also cause them to function worse. How to clean it (<- clicky).

Any chance the MAF wires were damaged or broke?

JordanB21 · Jan 18, 2013

HISSIN50 said:
In case I missed it, you're sure no spark plug wires came loose during the installation?

I didn't touch anything with the spark plugs, but i'll unplug and plug back in them too. It doesn't sound like it's missing or skipping a cylinder when it turns

HISSIN50 said:
There's no residual spray left in the intake tract, is there? That'll make the car run like crap till it clears out.

There shouldn't be, I only used compressed air in the entire track, I briefly sprayed air into the throttle body while half open (I opened it via the throttle cable on the side). So possibly that? Though it was a very very brief spray.

HISSIN50 said:
Did the car run for awhile after you hosed the intake tract down?

That's exactly what happened. I sprayed it down with the air and all. It turned over fine, ran fine for about 10 minutes and then died. You got it on the nose.

HISSIN50 said:
The cleaning of the TB might have caused the IAC to start acting up. You haven't actually removed the IAC and cleaned it, have you? Doing so can help but it can also cause them to function worse. How to clean it (<- clicky).

I have not tried to or messed with the IAC at all, but hey maybe i'll try cleaning it. If it makes it worse, well then, the car isn't running right anyways. So no big loss

HISSIN50 said:
Any chance the MAF wires were damaged or broke?

When I took it out and cleaned it they looked fine before and after. I wish I took an after picture. But it looked exactly the same as before, minus all the black gunk.
I only sprayed Carb cleaner into the housing of the MAF after it was suggested I clean it. Then I removed the actual MAF sensor and cleaned it with brake cleaner. These fluids never made contact with anything but the MAF and its housing.

Also your original post is there plus the second
Finally, God I love this face "" it fits everyyyythhinggg.

HISSIN50 · Jan 18, 2013

Ok, I gotcha and I misunderstood. If you didn't use any solvent in the intake hose, I would not mess with the IAC. I thought you had used plenum or brake cleaner on it, and that could have dislodged some of the gum in the IAC. I might hold off on touching the IAC because that's just introducing one more variable at this point.

JordanB21 · Jan 18, 2013

HISSIN50 said:
Ok, I gotcha and I misunderstood. If you didn't use any solvent in the intake hose, I would not mess with the IAC. I thought you had used plenum or brake cleaner on it, and that could have dislodged some of the gum in the IAC. I might hold off on touching the IAC because that's just introducing one more variable at this point.

Ah damn, I was excited to yank more stuff off the car
I'll try the battery reset and check the spark plug wires when I get home then:0

JordanB21 · Jan 18, 2013

Tried the battery reset and spark plugs. No dice.
It turns over but now it's not even idling at all
Also what is the pin #13 on the Ccrm for? I want to make sure it's unrelated and rule it out.

It was suggested I try putting new fuel in it and try b12 or other octane booster since the fuel is months old, more than three less than six

HISSIN50 · Jan 18, 2013

JordanB21 said:
Also what is the pin #13 on the Ccrm for? I want to make sure it's unrelated and rule it out.

Should be accessory 12V.

Can you get the car to idle at all, any how or way? Does starting fluid help? Are you sure you have fuel pressure?

toyman · Jan 18, 2013

See if this helps. Pin 13 is Ignition and is hot in start and run. I'm not so certain that the MAF sensor will withstand a blast of compressed air. It's a delicate part.

JordanB21 · Jan 18, 2013

HISSIN50 said:
Should be accessory 12V.

Can you get the car to idle at all, any how or way? Does starting fluid help? Are you sure you have fuel pressure?

Nope it won't idle at all anymore.
I plan to swap the Ccrm incase I messed up the fuel pump relay (I have a spare). I'm replacing the fuel filter and adding some gas and octane booster.
I need to buy a fuel pressure tester still though. I was thinking the gas is old

toyman said:
See if this helps. Pin 13 is Ignition and is hot in start and run. I'm not so certain that the MAF sensor will withstand a blast of compressed air. It's a delicate part.

I blew compressed air into the reverse side, not against the MAF sensor. And it looked intact when I took it out.

I was curious about pin #13 losing connection if it was related to the fuel pump relay. Wether or not the 12v was getting to it. But let's assume its good

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