Progress Thread Low Mile 89 GT Restomod - Moving toward paint

These ones were fully stuck on except over the hole itself (obviously). They were a bit of pain to grip somewhere to peel them back or off. I chose off. I still have them and will check for adhesive residue.

I went back and checked these covers again. They are definitely "D" shaped and look like they were just adhesive foam cut to shape and installed over the holes.




We removed the hatch and found some seam seal at the top that was toast.



We are going to need to remove that and redo the seam sealer.

Working on the hatch. There are a number of bubbles on the rear face that needed addressing. Top section is good though.



Sanded them with a stripping disc and had a few blow throughs.



Decided to cut out the bad sections and replace with new metal.

Patch pieces cut to fit and test fit prior to butt welding.



Then ground smooth.

Pulled the rear end to clean it up and prep for 5 lug swap. Opened up the rear to change fluid and check condition of components.



Looks like a nearly new set of 4.10 gears and nearly new traction lock clutches - feels like nearly new too as it is fairly firm to turn the wheels in opposite directions. So the fluid was probably fairly new too, but you never know these things.

I cleaned up the housing and repainted the rear end in a Tremclad Semi Gloss black paint, reduced 4-1.



Painted the rad support brackets while the paint was in the gun.

In removing the rear end we had to remove the old e-brake cables and I figured out a bit of a hack to get old rusty spring clip to come out.



I used a 1/2" drive 13mm socket to compress the locking splines while I used a punch through the ratchet end of the socket to tap the clip back through the hole.


The socket was tapped on until it was flush with the bracket. It is possible that a 1/2" socket could have worked but the 12mm was just too small. The 1/2" drive was needed to clear the barrel end of the e-brake cable, 3/8 drive just didn't have a large enough center hole in the socket to work.


When it is most of the way out you can remove the socket. This was a 6-point socket and I think a 12-point might work better, you may need to go slightly smaller then (1/2" or 12mm).

The floor pans underneath overall looked like the areas shown above at the e-brake cable mount. A good clean 35 year old factory finish with spots of loose/flaking surface rust or paint in some areas.





A wire wheel on an angle grinder to remove the loose scale and two coats of reduced (1-1 with urethane reducer) rubberized rocker guard. Prior to the rocker guard I welded the upper and lower control arm mounts to the floor pan/frame rails to help strengthen the factory spot welds. Close look in the second pic below can see some of the welds.


Re-installed the rear end and mounted some 5-lug wheels I had.

I sanded the main body with 80 grit on a DA in prep for some high build primer. On spots where I sanded through to bare metal I hit them with some rust primer. On the rear hatch mounting area I scraped the old seam sealer off and sanded with some stripper discs down to bare metal and then some of the rust primer on top.



Before I finished installing the rear end (springs and shocks not installed) I mocked up the rear rotors and wheels we will be using.

Have had a couple trips to work on the car again. Here are the updates.

Started with brake and fuel lines for under the car.

Took a scotch brite pad and scuffed all the lines, cleaning and inspecting the condition.

Inserting the clips back in place and riveting in factory locations. The replacement floor pans even had the necessary holes pre-stamped for the rivets.

Cleaned up the fuel filter mount and painted with some Duplicolor Engine paint - Cast Iron colour.


Finished the lines up at the rear with new fuel filter. Ready for tank install.


After cleaning the exterior of the fuel tank I sprayed some Tremclad Semi-Gloss black to prevent future surface rusting.

Assembled the pump assembly with new strainer, top o-ring and hold down clamp. Unfortunately couldn't get the tank installed as the fuel sending unit internal tank wire was broken so had to order a sender. Tank will get install next trip at end of June.

Working on the old body work dent on the driver door I spent some time pulling the metal back out with a spot weld puller. That followed by a dozen or so hours over a few trips with the hammer and dollies and a metal shrinking disc got everything to 1/16" or less. Good enough for me.

That was followed by a coat of epoxy primer.

After the epoxy primer cured I scuffed the panel (as per primer instructions) in prep for further fillers and primers. That resulted in a couple burn throughs on some high spots so a quick coat of rust primer to keep a solid base.


A couple rounds of Bondo skims and sanding got to the point of high build primer.


The passenger door got some burn throughs while stripping the old door moulding adhesive. So some rust primer on those spots followed by some high build primer there as well.

Cleaned up the old paint and surface rust on the wiper motor assembly.

And re-installed the wiper motor and mechanism. You can see the reassembled brake booster, MC and prop valve as well as the reworked brake lines.


Cleaned, prepped and painted the ATS calipers and 95 spindles.


Then test fit the wheel and brake assembly with a 25mm spacer (IIRC). Rotors are S197 13.23" diameter. Rear rotors are S197 11.8".


Next time will be some high build primer on the fenders, hood and main body followed by some block sanding to get everything straight.

Noobz347 said:

What do you have for a welding rig?

I need to do a lot of the kinds of things you're doing above.

Click to expand...

Most of the welds on this car have been made with a MIller 212 MIG running on 220V and 0.023" wire.

At home I have an old (30 year old 120V) Campbell Hausefeld Flux Core welder that I have done many a body work and repair welds with. A year ago I picked up a Hobart Handler 135 set up for MIG also running 0.023" wire, but it is showing signs of a control circuit issue (common with this series of welder). Also recently got a Miller 130 that is currently set up for flux core that will likely replace the Hobart as my MIG at home.

I am not a professional welder, just a self taught hobbyist. I prefer to butt weld patches in sheet metal (as opposed to overlapped joints) and the thinner welding wire lets me turn down the power on the welder. It makes good tacks and beads without as many blow throughs on the thinner material. It can still be turned up and make good welds on material up to 1/4" or so, which is all I really use. I'm sure there are professional welders that would contradict my thoughts but it works for me for what I am trying to accomplish.