There maybe a couple of posts out there already about this, but I'd like to share our experience with changing the Lower Control Arms.
Well, I don't have any pictures. But, I will take pictures when I change them on my car. This weekend we traded MyBad70's stock lower control arms for a pair of Granatelli.
We did not bother with the uppers due to time constraint. Unless you bought adjustable uppers there is really no point in our opinion to change them. You can also weld a plate onto them to strengthen them.
Here's a few helpful hints to keep you from turning a 1 hour job into a 2 day job like we did
You'll need-
a) Two 18mm sockets
b) Socket for swaybar bolts (I think 15mm)
c) PB Blaster Lubricant (buy at autozone/advance)
d) 2 Jacks
e) 2 Jack Stands
f) A friend that is not lazy.
1) Take the rear wheels off. Make sure to put the car up on jack stands underneath the subframes. If you do not have subframe connectors the job will be harder for you. Leave the axle hanging. You will later need a jack under the chunk (Pumpkin). For now if you have a couple of extra stands it won’t hurt to put them under the axle. Make sure to jack it up high!!! Maybe a foot or more off of the ground. There must be room to drop the LCA’s. There must be room to decompress the spring fully!!!
2) Remove the swaybar. It's 2 bolts on each side connected at the LCA's. I remember using a 15mm socket, though I could be wrong.
***Dangerous Part!!!***
Be Careful with this part! Anytime one is dealing with coil springs it can be dangerous if not deadly. Can’t hold me liable for anything and don’t say I didn’t warn you. If you’ve never dealt with coil springs before it’s a good idea to have someone around to help you. It’s a good idea to have someone there just in case you need them or at least make someone aware of what you’re doing so they can keep an eye out for you. Also, if you want to be a little safer you can take a “Come along” ratcheting strap and tie the spring off to prevent it from accidentally discharging from underneath the car. Always stay clear of the spring you are taking out and make sure all people, animals and cars are out of the way!!!
3) Put a jack underneath one of the rear springs underneath the rear of the control arm. You may want to tie the spring off as a preventative measure. Make sure the jack is touching the LCA and that it is keeping the spring under pressure.
4) Make sure the jack is in a proper place and will not roll under pressure. Unbolt the LCA at the rear. You’ll need some PB Blaster and two 18mm sockets.
5) Have a friend watch you at a distance. Once the bolt is removed the only thing holding the compressed spring is the jack. VERY CAREFULLY and VERY SLOWLY decompress the spring by slowly lowering the jack. Once the spring is completely decompress it should fall out. The axle maybe then be pitched to one side but that’s normal. Repeat steps 3,4 and 5 on the other spring.
6) Take the exhaust off of the hangers from the mufflers back. The mufflers will be in the way of taking the front LCA bolt out.
7) Take the front LCA bolt out. A swivel maybe necessary or it may not. Use two 18mm sockets.
8) Remove the stock LCA. This part may take some force. Spray some PB blaster onto the sides next to the bolt holes. Wiggle the LCA side to side and pull it backwards. It will eventually come out. If not, a pry bar is handy.
***Half Way There***
9) Spray some lubricant or use bearing grease to place the new LCA’s into place. Make sure that if the swaybar mount is not centered that you put them on the correct sides with the swaybar mount being closest to the outside of the car on each side. Bolt them in tight!
***Dangerous Part!!!***
10) Place the spring onto the new LCA and into the hole at the top. Place the jack underneath the LCA directly underneath the spring.
11) Compress the spring by jacking the LCA into place. Do this SLOWLY!!! Once compressed the jack will be the only thing between you and a trip to the emergency room or the morgue!!! You may want to tie the spring again to the car. Make sure to do all side to side adjustments by CAREFULLY moving the jack when the spring is still mostly decompressed. Don’t wait until you compress the spring almost in to place to move the jack- that’s dangerous.
12) Place the bolt into the hole. If it doesn’t line up, place a separate jack under the pumpkin where the drive shaft connects. When you jack up on the pumpkin, the axle should move toward the LCA so that you can feed the bolt through. Take your time and if you need to, slowly decompress the spring again and start over. Do not force anything! Tighten the bolt up and the lower the jack. Repeat steps 10, 11 and 12 for the other side.
13) Reinstall the swaybar. You may have to connect it back to the outside of the LCA’s by switching the clips around.
14) Put the wheels back on.
Well, I don't have any pictures. But, I will take pictures when I change them on my car. This weekend we traded MyBad70's stock lower control arms for a pair of Granatelli.
We did not bother with the uppers due to time constraint. Unless you bought adjustable uppers there is really no point in our opinion to change them. You can also weld a plate onto them to strengthen them.
Here's a few helpful hints to keep you from turning a 1 hour job into a 2 day job like we did
You'll need-
a) Two 18mm sockets
b) Socket for swaybar bolts (I think 15mm)
c) PB Blaster Lubricant (buy at autozone/advance)
d) 2 Jacks
e) 2 Jack Stands
f) A friend that is not lazy.
1) Take the rear wheels off. Make sure to put the car up on jack stands underneath the subframes. If you do not have subframe connectors the job will be harder for you. Leave the axle hanging. You will later need a jack under the chunk (Pumpkin). For now if you have a couple of extra stands it won’t hurt to put them under the axle. Make sure to jack it up high!!! Maybe a foot or more off of the ground. There must be room to drop the LCA’s. There must be room to decompress the spring fully!!!
2) Remove the swaybar. It's 2 bolts on each side connected at the LCA's. I remember using a 15mm socket, though I could be wrong.
***Dangerous Part!!!***
Be Careful with this part! Anytime one is dealing with coil springs it can be dangerous if not deadly. Can’t hold me liable for anything and don’t say I didn’t warn you. If you’ve never dealt with coil springs before it’s a good idea to have someone around to help you. It’s a good idea to have someone there just in case you need them or at least make someone aware of what you’re doing so they can keep an eye out for you. Also, if you want to be a little safer you can take a “Come along” ratcheting strap and tie the spring off to prevent it from accidentally discharging from underneath the car. Always stay clear of the spring you are taking out and make sure all people, animals and cars are out of the way!!!
3) Put a jack underneath one of the rear springs underneath the rear of the control arm. You may want to tie the spring off as a preventative measure. Make sure the jack is touching the LCA and that it is keeping the spring under pressure.
4) Make sure the jack is in a proper place and will not roll under pressure. Unbolt the LCA at the rear. You’ll need some PB Blaster and two 18mm sockets.
5) Have a friend watch you at a distance. Once the bolt is removed the only thing holding the compressed spring is the jack. VERY CAREFULLY and VERY SLOWLY decompress the spring by slowly lowering the jack. Once the spring is completely decompress it should fall out. The axle maybe then be pitched to one side but that’s normal. Repeat steps 3,4 and 5 on the other spring.
6) Take the exhaust off of the hangers from the mufflers back. The mufflers will be in the way of taking the front LCA bolt out.
7) Take the front LCA bolt out. A swivel maybe necessary or it may not. Use two 18mm sockets.
8) Remove the stock LCA. This part may take some force. Spray some PB blaster onto the sides next to the bolt holes. Wiggle the LCA side to side and pull it backwards. It will eventually come out. If not, a pry bar is handy.
***Half Way There***
9) Spray some lubricant or use bearing grease to place the new LCA’s into place. Make sure that if the swaybar mount is not centered that you put them on the correct sides with the swaybar mount being closest to the outside of the car on each side. Bolt them in tight!
***Dangerous Part!!!***
10) Place the spring onto the new LCA and into the hole at the top. Place the jack underneath the LCA directly underneath the spring.
11) Compress the spring by jacking the LCA into place. Do this SLOWLY!!! Once compressed the jack will be the only thing between you and a trip to the emergency room or the morgue!!! You may want to tie the spring again to the car. Make sure to do all side to side adjustments by CAREFULLY moving the jack when the spring is still mostly decompressed. Don’t wait until you compress the spring almost in to place to move the jack- that’s dangerous.
12) Place the bolt into the hole. If it doesn’t line up, place a separate jack under the pumpkin where the drive shaft connects. When you jack up on the pumpkin, the axle should move toward the LCA so that you can feed the bolt through. Take your time and if you need to, slowly decompress the spring again and start over. Do not force anything! Tighten the bolt up and the lower the jack. Repeat steps 10, 11 and 12 for the other side.
13) Reinstall the swaybar. You may have to connect it back to the outside of the LCA’s by switching the clips around.
14) Put the wheels back on.
