lower control arm removal

9

92BlackGT

Member

Aug 4, 2003

182

7

17

Tinker AFB, OK

May 24, 2004

#1

• May 24, 2004

• #1

I started my suspension project today. I got my passenger rear spring out and the bolt that attaches the lower arm to the axle. I go to remove the body side bolt and that thing will not budge. It's soaking in WD40 right now, tomorrow I'll go get some Liquid Wrench and let it soak since I work.
Now, do I have to remove the cat-back system to get that bolt out of the frame rail? I don't think there is enough room to get it out with the muffler in the way. If I need to, might as well get a new cat-back system, ya know.
Do you think soaking the nut in Liquid Wrench will do any good, or should I get a torch??
Thanx for the help.

 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!

Jul 3, 2001

10,262

1

0

Mill Creek, WA

May 25, 2004

#2

• May 25, 2004

• #2

You shouldn't have to remove your cat-back -- but some penetrating oil is a good idea. I like to use a small propane torch and get them nice and hot -- then with a little effort they usually turn right out.

 

cztt

New Member

Jun 23, 2003

53

0

0

May 25, 2004

#3

• May 25, 2004

• #3

Are you using an air impact(what pressure)? The professional air impacts are muct stronger and the home depot/lowes/sears normal one. Are you using a 1/2 drive with a cheater pipe? If so, all I can say is cheater it more. Put a come-a-long on the 1/2 drive with cheater pipe.

 

9

92BlackGT

Member

Aug 4, 2003

182

7

17

Tinker AFB, OK

May 25, 2004

#4

• May 25, 2004

• #4

yeah, i'm using a 1/2" drive with a cheater pipe....i guess im gonna have to get the car higher.

 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!

Jul 3, 2001

10,262

1

0

Mill Creek, WA

May 25, 2004

#5

• May 25, 2004

• #5

When you put that much stress on something you're probably going to break the bolt -- put a little heat to it and it will come right off.

 

Ranchero5.0

The Voice of Reason

Jan 1, 1999

5,306

0

76

Hagerstown MD

May 25, 2004

#6

• May 25, 2004

• #6

Had to remove the catback on my '93 from the X pipe and let it droop out of the way. You need two 18mm sockets and an breaker bar or peice of pipe. It's a bit of a pain, not enough room for an impact with the exhaust still in the car, drooping or not. Just be sure to put some grease on the side of the new arm bushings before installing them. BTW, I just installed the Steeda aluminum's witht he three peice bushing and they are worth their weight in gold. Car even has less understeer on the off ramps with them and they hook a 390RWHP car in first extremely well on street tires.


Jamie

 

maverick0716

Founding Member

Jan 12, 2002

3,924

0

56

Chilliwack, BC, Canada

May 25, 2004

#7

• May 25, 2004

• #7

I had to unbolt the catback on mine as well....sucks.

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

Founding Member

Jan 15, 2002

2,773

17

89

Dallas, GA

May 25, 2004

#8

• May 25, 2004

• #8

I'll be doing this soon. I got some HPM Megabite Jr's off the brown truck along with the poly upper axel bushings, waiting on the HPM Megabite double adjustables which should be here tomorow. I'm going to do it all at once. I hope it will make a good difference.