So what exactly are the benefits of LCA's? how will the effect my 1/4 times and would i want adjustables? school meplease, i dont know much about suspension, currently i have the eibach pro kit and non-adj tokico shocks/struts, also i am pretty handy with a wrench can i install these?
Lower Control Arms
- Thread starter evil281
- Start date
They keep the rear planted for better traction and also will reduce wheel hop. They will have a good effect on your 60ft (which helps your 1/4). I've heard great things about MM LCA's, plan on doing them myself after a few other mods. Main advantage of adjustable LCAs is that you have one setting for on the road which helps you as mentioned above. Then you can change the ride height for the track for better weight transfer.
SaleenGT2001
Well-Known Member
in drag racing situations they help improve 60' times. they do not flex like the cheapo stick stamped steel arms.
i'm running some cheap non adjustable UPR uppers and lowers. i'm happy with them. they made a noticable difference in the take off!
i'm running some cheap non adjustable UPR uppers and lowers. i'm happy with them. they made a noticable difference in the take off!
they all seem pretty basic would these be a good buy?
J&M Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms (99-04) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
or these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GRAN...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
J&M Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms (99-04) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
or these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GRAN...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
squeak93
15 Year Member
If ur wanting to affect ur 1/4 times the most then full adjustables are going to be the best, just a pain for the average Joe to get set perfect. A great option would be a set that u can adjust manually like HPM mega bite jrs or Lakewood traction action bar (have a support for ur rear axle too,) that u can lower or raise depending on ur need, uses a bracket and bolts instead of length adjusters, more work to adjust but easier for the average stanger. I have ran both, the lakewoods are about 1/2 the price through summit as the hpm/frpp ones.
so will none adjustables not really help? i am not looking to shave off every tenth possible here just a nice little upgrade that will help even one tenth, and do i really nee the uppers too?
i really dont want to mess with adjustables, this is just a DD
squeak93
15 Year Member
Non adj will make a bit of a difference but for the most differnce while being the most user friendly I would look into HPM Mega bite jrs or the Lakewood traction action bars.
Click here: Lakewood :: Product Details
I ran the same type on my 92 fox, other than the hardware pack being screwed up and having to make a trip for some nice grade 8 bolts, very easy to install. I can't find them on summit but they sold me my ones for my 92 back in april.
Click here: Lakewood :: Product Details
I ran the same type on my 92 fox, other than the hardware pack being screwed up and having to make a trip for some nice grade 8 bolts, very easy to install. I can't find them on summit but they sold me my ones for my 92 back in april.
Mustang92
SN's #1 1%er
Honestly if it's your DD and your not big into messing with suspension I'd go with solid lowers and adjustable uppers or even solid uppers if you no plans to adjust your pinion angle. The stock uppers and lowers are stamped steel and both flex so by replacing them you eliminate the flex and you also elminate the stock rubber bushings for harder urethane bushings further eliminating flex.
Adjustable lowers are to move your axle in or out from the car and for most people it's not needed. Some like to have that flexibility. The adjustable uppers allow you to adjust your pinion angle based on the rest of your suspension, tires you are using. That's mainly in drag racing.
Bill
Adjustable lowers are to move your axle in or out from the car and for most people it's not needed. Some like to have that flexibility. The adjustable uppers allow you to adjust your pinion angle based on the rest of your suspension, tires you are using. That's mainly in drag racing.
Bill
squeak93
15 Year Member
Which is why I suggest the lakewoods or the Hpms. Put them on the setting u want when ur installing them and leave them. Solid bars, good bushings and they change ur pinion angle. pulled 1.6,1.7s on drs with those in an auto 3500 stall just punching it off the line. They work. The hpms are just as good.
squeak93
15 Year Member
The hpm's come with spacers so u can keep the ride level, I had the Lakewoods on the lowest setting and it was just a tad lower than stock. Nothing I felt like worrying about.
Black90coupe
New Member
- Nov 11, 2008
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From what I have read you really only have to go with some good lowers and keep the stock uppers.. i have read quite a few people say that so thats what I am going to try out..
98COBRA281
10 Year Member
FWIW, i just replaced my rear control arm buschings with energy suspension, polyurathane kit, (all 8 buschings) and it made a HUGE difference from the stock wore out rubber ones, the car feels so much tighter now, but you also can realy feel the rear since the busching are so hard, and it was only about $110 bucks.......
EDIT: and it fixed the sag i had on the rear passenger side
EDIT: and it fixed the sag i had on the rear passenger side
squeak93
15 Year Member
A good set of lowers is usually more than enough for a street car that sees some track use for fun. Take it a step farther and replace the bushings on the uppers and have a real nice feeling car.
Mustang92
SN's #1 1%er
Think of it like a sliding scale. You start with rubber bushings on one side , polyurethane and delrin in the middle and solid bushings on the end. Rubber is the softest and most forgiving for someone that wants a nice quiet ride. You give that up slowly as you slide the scale up till solid bushings which will transfer the most noise but stiffens everything up to the max and has a very low failure rate.
Poly is a good mid point for most people as it keeps the inside down and stiffens things up a bit over rubber but still has some give to it. However if you run at the track alot then you have to keep an eye on the bushings and expect to replace them after a few years. Case in point I just pulled off a set of Steeda weight jackers off my car that were less than two years old that had a broken rear bushing and was the cause of my wheel hop. I've made about 20 passes in the car on 18" Nitto DRs.
Delrin bushings are closer to solid bushings and they transfer a good amount of noise but are more durable than a poly bushing.
I put solids in my car this time just because I've been there and done that. I'd rather give up some road noise for durability.
Bill
squeak93
15 Year Member
I have had great luck with my rear bushings. The ones on the hpm mega jr's were real noisy, the ones on the lakewood traction action bars were quiet yet stiff... I think u will be happy with poly ones and they are very reasonable. Should have a real nice set up once ur done.
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