I just got bbk ceramic lts and h pipe. I know the basic idea of installing since i have helped my friend install his shorties. I have also heard i have to jack up the passanger side of the engine to get these in. Where are teh motor mounts that i have to unbolt? Also is there anything else i should know or any other help anyone can give me? Thanks
LT header install tomorrow..alittle help?
- Thread starter xexitenglishx
- Start date
Here's my advice.
Pay someone to install the LT headers.
The guy that did my install had to do the following:
1. Remove my strut tower brace
2. Remove the TB/AFMeter, etc.
3. Undo the motormount and raise the engine a bit
4. 'modify' ie GRIND away part of my transmission bellhousing.
5. removed the cowl vent at the top of the hood
6. much knuckle bashing and yelling I am sure
I am not a mechanical ignoramous, but he told me that a LT header install is the biggest PITA there is...and this is a guy that does this for a living, is a Mustang fanatic, and has lifts, and all the right tools.
FYI...I had BBK 1.75" Ceramic LT headers installed...so they do not just 'automatically' fit the way they advertise.
If I had to do that in my garage with my car on dinky little jackstands or ramps, I'd still be putting the damn thing together...he did it in an afternoon, and the labor cost me about $130...money well spent IMHO.
Hax
Pay someone to install the LT headers.
The guy that did my install had to do the following:
1. Remove my strut tower brace
2. Remove the TB/AFMeter, etc.
3. Undo the motormount and raise the engine a bit
4. 'modify' ie GRIND away part of my transmission bellhousing.
5. removed the cowl vent at the top of the hood
6. much knuckle bashing and yelling I am sure
I am not a mechanical ignoramous, but he told me that a LT header install is the biggest PITA there is...and this is a guy that does this for a living, is a Mustang fanatic, and has lifts, and all the right tools.
FYI...I had BBK 1.75" Ceramic LT headers installed...so they do not just 'automatically' fit the way they advertise.
If I had to do that in my garage with my car on dinky little jackstands or ramps, I'd still be putting the damn thing together...he did it in an afternoon, and the labor cost me about $130...money well spent IMHO.
Hax
I installed my BBK LT's and X pipe. I pretty much followed the BBK directions except I didnt have to remove my plugs, that just gives ya a little more room to work. First I removed my old headers, starter and steering. Unbolted motor mounts and jacked up the whole motor, got the driver side in and bolted up then slid the passenger side in bolted up the starter then bolted up the header, it took a while but it was my first time installing long tubes in a 5.0, next time will be cake and it wasnt all that hard just takes patience. Good luck and let us know how the install goes!
I believe so, I did the LT header install myself with some stands and a jack in the parking lot of my garage. It was a royal ****** but really didnt take that long if you know what you're doing. I didn't BTW so it took me forever. Anyway, I removed the steering rack, spark plugs, all the air flow stuff and had to jack up the engine on the right side to fit the LT's in. Didn't need to do any grinding or whatever and probably wouldn't have taken more than 4 or 5 hours if I had known what to do from the get go, rather than doing it via the trial and error method. Make sure you check the header bolts after a few days for a few weeks, they tend to rattle themselves out at first - unless of course you have the locking header bolts. Good luck!
I failed
Get the headers andd h pipe off but when it came to putting the passanger side header in i just couldnt do it. I jacked up the right side and removed the starter and the header just wouldnt fit in..it was just short of going in...the last pipe kept hitting the valve cover. If that damn heater core line wasnt in my way it probably would have went in. Any one have any suggestions. After you supposed to drop the headers in from the top or somehow from the bottom? I might be just towing it to a shop to get it done..Can anyone help me out. Thanks
Get the headers andd h pipe off but when it came to putting the passanger side header in i just couldnt do it. I jacked up the right side and removed the starter and the header just wouldnt fit in..it was just short of going in...the last pipe kept hitting the valve cover. If that damn heater core line wasnt in my way it probably would have went in. Any one have any suggestions. After you supposed to drop the headers in from the top or somehow from the bottom? I might be just towing it to a shop to get it done..Can anyone help me out. Thanks
You can do it!
The BBK instructions say to put the passenger side in through the top which is what I did. I removed the motor mount bolts on both sides of the motor and lifted it pretty far up, I had to experiment with lifting the motor to the side and lifting it strait up, it took a couple tries to get just the right gap to snake the passenger side in from the top but it will go in. I also removed the passenger side motor mount for more room
You can do it dude, if you got this far your really really close just take a rest and try again with a fresh perspective.
The BBK instructions say to put the passenger side in through the top which is what I did. I removed the motor mount bolts on both sides of the motor and lifted it pretty far up, I had to experiment with lifting the motor to the side and lifting it strait up, it took a couple tries to get just the right gap to snake the passenger side in from the top but it will go in. I also removed the passenger side motor mount for more room
You can do it dude, if you got this far your really really close just take a rest and try again with a fresh perspective.
Overrated install.
It's not that some of us make it seem easy, it's that some make it so hard.
Turning wrenches for a living I have learned that sometimes doing more work equalls less work. It's all nuts and bolts, if it's in your way, remove it. Since your going with o/r stuff, delete all that smog crap and all the tubing, including that crap going to the back of the heads. Take out the airtube and MAF, remove the motormount to K-frame bolt on both sides, lift the motor as far as you can w/o crushing anything and drop in from the top. Maby remove the spark plugs and rock the motor to the side, bam your in. Take the steering shaft from the knuckle on the rack, move it to the side and with the motor up and shifted drop in the other side.
If I was near you I would throw those in for you, it's no biggie.
It's not that some of us make it seem easy, it's that some make it so hard.
Turning wrenches for a living I have learned that sometimes doing more work equalls less work. It's all nuts and bolts, if it's in your way, remove it. Since your going with o/r stuff, delete all that smog crap and all the tubing, including that crap going to the back of the heads. Take out the airtube and MAF, remove the motormount to K-frame bolt on both sides, lift the motor as far as you can w/o crushing anything and drop in from the top. Maby remove the spark plugs and rock the motor to the side, bam your in. Take the steering shaft from the knuckle on the rack, move it to the side and with the motor up and shifted drop in the other side.
If I was near you I would throw those in for you, it's no biggie.
Stang89LXCPE
New Member
I have these on my car and beleive it or not, I did not jack up the motor at all. I would suggest very highly to remove the passenger side Valve cover. You would be surprised how much more room you have with it out of the way. Good luck
Steve
Steve
FYI for my LT's on my 351 had to go in from the bottom on the passenger side. I think I jacked the motor a tad, but once I figured out a bottom installation, it was 20 minutes later that it was in.
No tranny clearance issues.
No tranny clearance issues.
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