Mac long tube headers and jacking engine questions

Jul 8, 2018
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Indiana
#1
Hello I’m new to both stang net and mustangs! I’ve owned my (first mustang)89 gt for a couple of months now and recently purchased a set of MAC LT headers thinking I could just bolt them right up.. well now I’ve come to the realization that that’s not gonna happen and I’ve now gotten everything apart and ready to jack the motor up.. I’ve never jacked a motor up with a floor jack before and I really think it’s sketchy.. any tips on how to do so .I do have a bigger oil pan than stock it’s squared off on all corners and I believe it’s a lot deeper than stock.. is it okay to just put a block of wood under the oil pan and jack it up .or , would it be better to use a engine jack and jack it up with that instead , is that possible with out removing intake and everything else on top of the motor? Where would I hook the chains to? I just need help and I’m second guessing every idea I’ve had to get these headers in ... thank you in advance and I hope I can count on help from people on here to help me along with my dream fox build with the little experience I have lol
 
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Feb 3, 2009
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#2
The driver's side header should be able to go in with the engine in place once you remove the steering shaft. There is a bolt you can remove that will allow you to collapse the shaft and move it out of the way assuming you still have the stock steering shaft. The header will install from the bottom.

On the passenger side, all I usually do is unbolt the passenger engine mount and jack the engine up using the smog pump bracket as a jacking point until I'm able to get the header in place. The header will install from the top.
 

santos

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Dec 11, 1999
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#3
mine went in on the drivers side without removing the steering shaft, just fyi
 
Jul 8, 2018
2
0
1
29
Indiana
#4
The driver's side header should be able to go in with the engine in place once you remove the steering shaft. There is a bolt you can remove that will allow you to collapse the shaft and move it out of the way assuming you still have the stock steering shaft. The header will install from the bottom.

On the passenger side, all I usually do is unbolt the passenger engine mount and jack the engine up using the smog pump bracket as a jacking point until I'm able to get the header in place. The header will install from the top.
Okay thank you I’ll give that a try right now that sounds way better than using the pan as a jacking point! Sorry I’m taking so long to reply took me 2 days to find this thread again still figuring out how to use this site lol
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#5
You should get notifications when someone posts on you thread, there is a bell looking button in the upper right corner that will have numbers show responses.
 

billison

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Feb 27, 2006
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#6
When I removed my long tubes, I used a block of wood under the oil pan. I had to unbolt the starter, both motor mounts and the steering shaft. This was NOT a fun job.
 

Reddevil91

5 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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#7
When I removed my long tubes, I used a block of wood under the oil pan. I had to unbolt the starter, both motor mounts and the steering shaft. This was NOT a fun job.
Would you run 1 3/4 or 1 5/8 LTs on TF 11r 190s?
 

96pushrod

Active Member
May 15, 2018
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#9
1 5/8
need the back pressure.
Yeah, you don’t wanna kill torque :poo:

Edit: Personally, I’m going with 1 3/4 long tubes on my build. 1 5/8 primaries will work fine for a good street build, they’ll support a good amount of power. I didn’t want to go 1 5/8 with 2.5in collector just to maybe redo it all with 1 3/4 with 3 in when I add more power. So I guess it kinda depends what you’re looking to do.

I do love how 2.5 in exhaust sounds on the street. Damn near perfect amount of sound.
 
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