• Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

mac prochamber install

  • Thread starter Thread starter steveb24
  • Start date Start date Feb 8, 2006

steveb24

New Member
Nov 28, 2005
555
0
0
wilmington, DE
Feb 8, 2006
#1
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #1
i just ordered it on monday..so i should have it by saturday..because it has been shipped! is this something i can put on myself with a friend? we had access to air tools i believe, if not, some good hand tools. what do you think about putting on the o/r prochamber and taking off the stock h midpipe? i have 60,700 miles on the car too..if that helps. thanks
 

trailblazr81

Member
May 17, 2003
571
0
16
Hollister, Cali
Feb 8, 2006
#2
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #2
Go to Autozone and get a can of PB Blaster. Spray all the bolts the day before. And spray them again before you try to stat loosening them. Make sure you have a good 12-18" of extensions and a "swivel" or "u-joint" socket. A medium or deep socket will be needed. Remember to D/C the battery first. And make sure you put O2's in the right place... ie: front stay in front laft stay on left, etc. And you may want a "persuader" handy since its sometimes hard to kick things under there.

I had about 67,000 miles on mine when I swapped in O/R H and I didnt need air tools. 3/8 ratchet worked fine. Also I got that PB blaster everywhere and was kinda nasty smoking as it burned off the exhaust.
 

Dan_Soprano

15 Year Member
May 7, 2003
7,410
53
129
Jacksonville, FL
Feb 8, 2006
#3
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #3
trailblazr81 said:
Go to Autozone and get a can of PB Blaster. Spray all the bolts the day before. And spray them again before you try to stat loosening them. Make sure you have a good 12-18" of extensions and a "swivel" or "u-joint" socket. A medium or deep socket will be needed. Remember to D/C the battery first. And make sure you put O2's in the right place... ie: front stay in front laft stay on left, etc. And you may want a "persuader" handy since its sometimes hard to kick things under there.

I had about 67,000 miles on mine when I swapped in O/R H and I didnt need air tools. 3/8 ratchet worked fine. Also I got that PB blaster everywhere and was kinda nasty smoking as it burned off the exhaust.
Click to expand...
perfect advise!! Couldn't have said it better myself!
 

03ghoststang

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2005
1,930
1
57
Los Angeles, California
Feb 8, 2006
#4
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #4
pretty much what was mentioned above and you will need a 22mm for the O2's and its easier done with a friend and a nice 12-pack
 

trailblazr81

Member
May 17, 2003
571
0
16
Hollister, Cali
Feb 8, 2006
#5
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #5
Thank You! Thank You!

:SNSign:
 

steveb24

New Member
Nov 28, 2005
555
0
0
wilmington, DE
Feb 8, 2006
#6
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #6
thank you all..i will do it on saturday then with some help. hope it all works out
 

bham_gt

New Member
Sep 21, 2004
94
0
0
Birmingham, AL
Feb 8, 2006
#7
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #7
trailblazr81 said:
A medium or deep socket will be needed. Remember to D/C the battery first.
Click to expand...

I found that the medium worked best on mine. The deep well would not go on completely straight, so it wanted to round off the nut. The medium worked perfectly, 15mm I believe.
 
W

wht03GT

New Member
Nov 2, 2005
41
0
0
Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 8, 2006
#8
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #8
trailblazr81 said:
Go to Autozone and get a can of PB Blaster. Spray all the bolts the day before. And spray them again before you try to stat loosening them. Make sure you have a good 12-18" of extensions and a "swivel" or "u-joint" socket. A medium or deep socket will be needed. Remember to D/C the battery first. And make sure you put O2's in the right place... ie: front stay in front laft stay on left, etc. And you may want a "persuader" handy since its sometimes hard to kick things under there.

I had about 67,000 miles on mine when I swapped in O/R H and I didnt need air tools. 3/8 ratchet worked fine. Also I got that PB blaster everywhere and was kinda nasty smoking as it burned off the exhaust.
Click to expand...

Yes perfect advise. Doesnt mention it in his post (i dont believe) the deep well you need is 15mm
 

propellerhead

New Member
Apr 13, 2004
1,541
0
0
"but what's with the but shots?"
Feb 8, 2006
#9
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #9
+1 on the medium socket.

- Tighten the Prochamber to the headers bolts. Leave the others loose. Use a jack to lift up the chamber part. At least level it out. Then tighten the remaining bolts.

- It will sound airy at first. Like you have an air leak. Drive it for a couple of days to get a few heat/cold cycles. Then, recheck your connections and if they look good, and you know you don't have leaks, don't pay attention to the airy sound. It goes away eventually.

- You'll see smoke out the tips whenever you shut off the engine. Sometimes it will come from just one of the tips. That will go away eventually too.
 

ALVARADO302

Banned
Nov 2, 2004
69
0
0
Los Angeles
Feb 8, 2006
#10
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #10
bham_gt said:
I found that the medium worked best on mine. The deep well would not go on completely straight, so it wanted to round off the nut. The medium worked perfectly, 15mm I believe.
Click to expand...

Totally agree medium socket worked perfect for me too
 

big blue

Founding Member
Jul 23, 2002
132
1
0
lexington, ky
Feb 8, 2006
#11
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #11
+1 medium socket. Good luck with the pass. header bolts . I think it is a rite of passage to curse a headerbolt that won't come out.
 

AdRock

Member
Nov 13, 2003
521
1
19
South Texas
Feb 8, 2006
#12
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #12
While you're there you might as well replace the header studs. The driveres side willmost likely not seal correctly if you don't.
 
D

dmenard74

New Member
Feb 15, 2006
9
0
0
Feb 15, 2006
#13
  • Feb 15, 2006
  • #13
I put on an offroad prochamber about a week ago and I do notice an airy raspy sound. I did see a tremendous loss of low end torque. Will this improve over time?
 

Mossberg

Active Member
Jul 21, 2003
0
1
36
ATL, Shawty
Feb 16, 2006
#14
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #14
The prochamber does sound very airy up under you while driving. But raspy is not how it should sound. It should be a smooth hollow tone. What muffs do you have?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Air Fuel ratio bung location.
  • Praetorious
  • Feb 7, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
39
Views
822
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Feb 11, 2026
Noobz347
Progress Thread The Mach Returns - Update/build thread
  • squeak93
  • Feb 20, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
5
Views
241
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Monday at 11:32 AM
squeak93
B
water pump installation questions
  • B0udreaux
  • Feb 5, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
38
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Feb 28, 2026
General karthief
Z
Progress Thread zeth194 - New Guy on the Block
  • zeth194
  • Mar 19, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
10
Views
436
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Apr 26, 2026
LILCBRA
3
Eight inches is enough for me...
  • 351MooseStang
  • Nov 27, 2025
  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech
Replies
5
Views
497
1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech Mar 2, 2026
Bullitt347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?