Okay that's what I thought and I concur. My statement was directed towards engine oil of course.
U.M.
Made the switch to Royal Purple today...
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CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
Okay that's what I thought and I concur. My statement was directed towards engine oil of course.
U.M.
Right. And I agree with your statement, Amsoil has always impressed me. But my car's not a track car, and the oil's on its way out in 3 months - so i buy a big 5 qrt container of Mobil 1 10w30 syn then 1 crt of "high millage" 10w30 syn. Wished i still worked in the petroleum industry, that way i could get an analysis of my oil. Oh well
I run Mobil 1 10W30 in my Cobra along with a Mobil 1 synthetic filter. I also send an oil sample in to Blackstone Labs at every oil change just to see if there's anything out of the ordinary going on.
U.M.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
I've never had any interest in trying RP. I always thought it was overpriced and too hard to find compared to say mobil 1 or other synthetics. For the most part, long as you change the oil regularly and run the proper grade, it doesn't matter what brand oil you run. I do think synthetic frees up a couple HP compared to conventional, but we are talking about less than 5hp. I like the extended oil change interval, as I drive a lot of miles a month these days.
My dad and I have always had good luck with mobil 1 synthetic, but you can find good stories from any oil.
My 97GT has gotten mobil 1 since we bought it with about 40k miles. It has over 146k miles now and still shows no signs of being tired. Just 2 weeks ago, it made 11 passes in the 1/4, the best of which was a 14.2 @ 96.5. That was with only an off-road H pipe... so stock gears, paper filter, ect. So I'd say the engine is still healthy.
I always felt like the mobil 1 gave a slight advantage, because there's nothing else done to the car. Even before the H-pipe, it was trapping 94-95mph at 14.6, and that was with a crappy 2.2 60', while DEAD stock. There had to be something giving it an edge, as I'm sure ford didn't give it anything special.
There are some cases where you wouldn't want to run a synthetic. I tried mobil 1 in my 88 2.3 mustang and wiped out a cam follower. That's when I learned that if you have a slider cam, you want an oil with Zinc, and synthetic oil does not have zinc.
My dad and I have always had good luck with mobil 1 synthetic, but you can find good stories from any oil.
My 97GT has gotten mobil 1 since we bought it with about 40k miles. It has over 146k miles now and still shows no signs of being tired. Just 2 weeks ago, it made 11 passes in the 1/4, the best of which was a 14.2 @ 96.5. That was with only an off-road H pipe... so stock gears, paper filter, ect. So I'd say the engine is still healthy.
I always felt like the mobil 1 gave a slight advantage, because there's nothing else done to the car. Even before the H-pipe, it was trapping 94-95mph at 14.6, and that was with a crappy 2.2 60', while DEAD stock. There had to be something giving it an edge, as I'm sure ford didn't give it anything special.There are some cases where you wouldn't want to run a synthetic. I tried mobil 1 in my 88 2.3 mustang and wiped out a cam follower. That's when I learned that if you have a slider cam, you want an oil with Zinc, and synthetic oil does not have zinc.
Notchbck93
New Member
I've never had any interest in trying RP. I always thought it was overpriced and too hard to find compared to say mobil 1 or other synthetics. For the most part, long as you change the oil regularly and run the proper grade, it doesn't matter what brand oil you run. I do think synthetic frees up a couple HP compared to conventional, but we are talking about less than 5hp. I like the extended oil change interval, as I drive a lot of miles a month these days.
My dad and I have always had good luck with mobil 1 synthetic, but you can find good stories from any oil.
My 97GT has gotten mobil 1 since we bought it with about 40k miles. It has over 146k miles now and still shows no signs of being tired. Just 2 weeks ago, it made 11 passes in the 1/4, the best of which was a 14.2 @ 96.5. That was with only an off-road H pipe... so stock gears, paper filter, ect. So I'd say the engine is still healthy.
There are some cases where you wouldn't want to run a synthetic. I tried mobil 1 in my 88 2.3 mustang and wiped out a cam follower. That's when I learned that if you have a slider cam, you want an oil with Zinc, and synthetic oil does not have zinc.
Most M1 UOA's come back with 7-800ppm Zinc.
Rotella 5-40 on the other hand will run 1000-1150 in zinc.
IMHO, Mobil 1 is probably the best reasonably-priced and readily available full synthetic motor oil out there (btw I have RP gear oil in the pumpkin).
What weight oil would you use in a track / heavy food town engine? I will adjust boost until output is about 500 wheel hp.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
I'd say a 5W-30 if you can find it. 5w-30's usually have a higher flash point and viscosity index (less change in viscosity over temperature change) than 5w-20's. Just try to find spec sheets and locate what you like, it's mostly about brand at that point. Main thing i don't like about Mobil 1 is their poor Viscosity indexing scores, the 10w-30 i use is rated at 145 - which isn't bad, but not great. Wont mean much unless you run you car hard and long, then the viscosity changes significantly (doesnt break down) but alters its lubricating attributes.
Look for comparing charts like this:
Or just ask me to look em up in my e-booklet
IDK, I always see these threads and wonder why. I wont buy the cheep stuff cause Im sure there is a reason its .99 a quart. I have flopped around so much its not even funny but now I just use Valvoline 5W30 synthetic blend every 3K and it seems ok. I need to replace the lash adjusters so I have some knocking noise but it was like that when I bought it. CobraRed hasnt said anything negative about it so I will take that as a good sign as I respect you knowledge and experience
My father swears by Mobil 1 and says he can feel a difference. Its his car and his money and Mobil 1 is fine so I aint gonna tell him to change
I stood and watched my friends 300Z TT get dynoed then RP change and dynoed again and saw 9 rwhp as "proof" it worked. I always thought
and told my friend dont wait 10K for the next oil change again 
My father swears by Mobil 1 and says he can feel a difference. Its his car and his money and Mobil 1 is fine so I aint gonna tell him to change
I stood and watched my friends 300Z TT get dynoed then RP change and dynoed again and saw 9 rwhp as "proof" it worked. I always thought
and told my friend dont wait 10K for the next oil change again
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
IDK, I always see these threads and wonder why. I wont buy the cheep stuff cause Im sure there is a reason its .99 a quart. I have flopped around so much its not even funny but now I just use Valvoline 5W30 synthetic blend every 3K and it seems ok. I need to replace the lash adjusters so I have some knocking noise but it was like that when I bought it. CobraRed hasnt said anything negative about it so I will take that as a good sign as I respect you knowledge and experience
My father swears by Mobil 1 and says he can feel a difference. Its his car and his money and Mobil 1 is fine so I aint gonna tell him to change
I stood and watched my friends 300Z TT get dynoed then RP change and dynoed again and saw 9 rwhp as "proof" it worked. I always thought
Oh please, you use Valvoline cuz their commercial has a sn95 cobra in it
I have limited experience with valvoline, except for their rear gear fluid - and that's not the greatest, not the worst either tho. But i haven't looked into their motor oil - i could if you wanted.Oh please, you use Valvoline cuz their commercial has a sn95 cobra in it
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
They currently have a Durablend and a Maxlife line wich denotes synthetic blend and full syn. I looked at both.
Durablend 5w-30:
less viscosity variation at high temperature compared to low by 7 points (semi - to not significant)
Lower sulfur ash as a % of twice burned weight (surprised me)
Full syn 5w-30:
Better low temperature performance via CCs (Cold Crank Simulation) and MRV (Mini Rotor Viscosimeter) ratings. Also show by better pour
point favoring the synthetic by 8 degrees
Higher flash point by 5 degrees
Those are attribute or PI's on MSDS sheets. Comparing to other brands in use tests:
simple load bearing lubrication and wear test:
Mobil Synth S - 10w40
API Rating: Not Rated
Amperage: 3.9
Load Rating: 6lb
Scar Length: 6mm
Pressure Resistance: 6389.06psi
Valvoline Durablend - 10w40
API Rating: SL/CF
Amperage: 3.7
Load Rating: 8lb
Scar Length: 3mm
Pressure Resistance: 23, 858psi
Royal Purple - 10w40 Multigrade
API Rating: CF, CF-2/SJ
Amperage: 3.7
Load Rating: 8lb
Scar Length: 1.5mm
Pressure Resistance: 131, 432psi
Red Line Synthetic - 5w40
API Rating: SL/SJ/SH
Amperage: 3,8
Load Rating: 6lb
Scar Length: 6mm
Pressure Resistance: 6389.06
this shows (7 other brands were also used) Valvoline and RP as having the best results. Yet as I said, RP additives and the use of moly creates high primary use results and low extended wear and oxidation results. Valvoline (although a 10w here) showed up to the competition. Really i cant find much Independent tests on the stuff, they must not want to put the money into it, guess they have nothing to prove. It might pass my current Castrol GTX synthetic recomendation for that price range, but i have yet to see just much test data on Valvoline's stuff to convince me.
04sleeper
Founding Member
I am running 0w-30 German Castrol in my Mustang and Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5-40 in my wifes Mercedes. But I could run the Castrol in both because it is MB 229.51 rated oil as well.
04sleeper
Founding Member
It's at all the Auto Zone stores around here on the shelf.
last time i checked here they said it didnt exist. i gave them a sku and they said they werent interested in ordering me any, i said i would buy like 10 cases or something to take it worth while. ill talk to our oil supplier at work, i bet they can get it for me for cheap.
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