Major electrical prolems

[Bosko5.0]

Well I got her running sounds beutifully loud but well heres my problems:


the battery guage doesnt work
tach jumps then doesnt work
speedo doesnt work becuase speedcal has no power
car dies when lights come on
the dash clock 1/2 lit up


I used this setup from the tweecer tuning manual

Longtube header settings
( if youre running longtubes, you might have ran into some problems with the O2's going cold, or taking a while to heat up to temp, these settings should keep everything happy)

Tables
Exhuast Pulse Delay

R P M
900 1300 1500
.075 - 24 24 24 24
L .06- 24 24 24 24
O .05 - 20 20 20 20
A .04 - 20 20 20 20
D .03 - 20 20 20 20
.02 - 20 20 20 20
.01 - 20 20 20 20
.005 - 20 20 20 20

I also think my tweecer got fried since the car doesnt turnoff or change rpm when it switch to different setup.

also my wideband O2 may have gone bad since its not reading right 50.1 instructions say its bad

and i bent another egr pipe to fit it lined up right so when i tightened it down it started crossthreading the header so i said srew this and used a penny to block it off and used part of my hpipe that i cut up to block off the manifold port.
so no egr

i took the battery to have it tested it was bad so i got another one hopefully it works but i need to wonder if this will fix all my problems.

 

[Bosko5.0]

well it starts up my afr 14.3-15.2 it keeps changing(at least it works)
all the guages work ok except for gas guage it says its 1/4 past full hopefully that how much gas i really have, Is there a fuse or something for it or not

but for some reason the battery voltage is 12 and isnt it suppose to be at 14-15 volt what may be causing this and what can i do to fix it and will it

 

[1TallMF]

Sounds like its running off of the battery. Funky things like you mentioned will happen when the voltage gets too low. As a first step I'd say have your alternator bench tested to see if its any good. But the voltmeter not working tells me maybe something's not properly connected. I believe there is a fusible link in-line on the alternator charge cable not far from the fuse box on the driver's side. If the alternator checks-out fine, then take the wiring loom apart and see if this fusible link is perhapse fried.

 

[Bosko5.0]

well i drove it to work about 7 miles then home 7 miles then drove it back to brothers 8 miles and the battery died while i was driving i got the battery checked it was ok, also checked the alternater also good so i guess ill try and look for the fuseable link hopefully thats it thanks for the help

 

[HISSIN50]

Don't forget the alternator fuse too. 1TMF's description of the location of the fusible links is right on. Mine were just inside the wire loom (as the cable gets ready to creep up the side of the PS pump).

On the alternator, you will see ASI letters on the regulator.

A= battery voltage. Look for ~ 12 volts with the car off, and 14+ (it should be high since your battery keeps getting drained) with it running. At a min, it needs to be over 12.72 volts.

S = stator wire

I = 12 volts with the key on. This wire is what tells the alternator to excite (turn-on).

Good luck.

 

[Bosko5.0]

right now the door unlock buttons dont work and the driver door speaker dont work?

I= should i get 12volts with just the key on and not running.

 

[Bosko5.0]

well i couldnt get any volts from the I wire, its working from the I to the plug it goes into but i can get a reading from beyond that point cuz i cant get to the other end it goes into the fender

also my rear lights dont come on running/brake lights

and this is why i hate electrical work so many wires= so many problems

 

[HISSIN50]

The I circuit is a little goofy. You send 12 volts to it (it goes from the ignition switch through the battery-idiot-light [and a resistor in parallel with the battery light]) to the I terminal.

The regulator grounds the I terminal when the alternator is not excited but the key is on (by grounding, it makes the light illuminate). WHen the alternator excites, the regulator ungrounds the I circuit, and with no ground, the battery light goes out.

If you simply see more than 12.7 volts at the big charge lug at the back of the alternator and your battery light is off, you can likely surmise the I circuit is alright.

EDIT: Forgot lights. Which lights dont work - the rear parking lights or the rear stop lights? If the stop lights, tell us if the middle brake light works. If you have no brake or parking lights from the rear, I'd see if any signal reaches the driver side taillight assembly. The MF switch might be at fault (if you've been having any issues with it).

Good luck.

 

[Bosko5.0]

all three lights dont work

FOR THE ASI ON THE REGULATOR

A=12v key off
S=?
I=18v key on and key off it was the same

so does that mean the regulator is bad

ive been able to jump it then it runs wait ten minutes turn car off then try to start it and it wont crank
yet i have 12 volts but i guess no amperage and all i get is the starter clicking

MF switch please enlighten me what and where it is.

 

[1TallMF]

MF switch please enlighten me what and where it is.

Multi-function switch (the one on the steering column that controls the turn signals/wipers/high beams).

As far as I know you will only see voltage at the stator wire when the alternator is turning (starting and running)

 

[Bosko5.0]

ive never had a problem with it before. how would i go about checking it?

 

[HISSIN50]

The body mounted stop lights go through the MF switch, but the high mount stop light does not. Since the high mount stop light is also not functional, forget about the MF stuff. Is your BOO working? You can use a test light or meter on the I/O to see if there's juice into and out of it. In is Lt grn/red and out is Red/lt grn. Fuse 9 is their power source.


For the alt:
Is I (which shows 18 volts) light grn/red? That's really weird that it is reading so high. I'm not sure how that can happen (a great question for someone smarter than me, like The_Mustang, who used to rebuild alternators IIRC).

Good luck.

 

[Bosko5.0]

update as of right now no progress other than all fuses are good,
now for the bad
no turn signals/harzards
brake/ running,and third light are not working
door locks dont work
no reverse lights


heres what i did to the car:
took off and put starter on, put in longtubes, wired in wideband o2, wired a cutout switch in, reroute wires under cai, remove center console to route cutout wiring, rewire foglitghts


iam going to try and replace the voltage regulator later today but i do have a short some where between the battery and the all the rear lights so i gots to try and find it

I have a couple more questions:

1) how many volts is the Brake On/Off aka boo switch suppose to get?
2) whats the easiest way to find a short?
3) would belt tension have to do with alternator regulator malfunction?
4)what would cause all my rear lights not to work?
5)would the keyless entry disable the rear lights and door locks, there is a clicking noise(when lock/unlock switch pressed) from the keylentry module in the trunk.

 

[Bosko5.0]

anybody???????

 

[HISSIN50]

update as of right now no progress other than all fuses are good,
now for the bad
no turn signals/harzards
brake/ running,and third light are not working
door locks dont work
no reverse lights


heres what i did to the car:
took off and put starter on, put in longtubes, wired in wideband o2, wired a cutout switch in, reroute wires under cai, remove center console to route cutout wiring, rewire foglitghts


iam going to try and replace the voltage regulator later today but i do have a short some where between the battery and the all the rear lights so i gots to try and find it

I have a couple more questions:

1) how many volts is the Brake On/Off aka boo switch suppose to get?
2) whats the easiest way to find a short?
3) would belt tension have to do with alternator regulator malfunction?
4)what would cause all my rear lights not to work?
5)would the keyless entry disable the rear lights and door locks, there is a clicking noise(when lock/unlock switch pressed) from the keylentry module in the trunk.

1. 12 volts at all times on the inlet side, 12 volts on the output when the switch is closed.

2. I'm not sold that you have a short (you have not blown fuses that you know of, right?). Short finding is a real pain. A kind of neat way to do it is with a clamp-on meter. But most folks don't have one, so one has to use a DMM in series with the battery cable and battery post.

Here are two neat links (courtesy of E-whiz Saleen 0679):

One

Two

It's weird to lose that many systems and not blow fuse. The power issue still make me wonder about big electrical connectors and the PDC connection. I clean the latter every so often because when it's dirty it can lead to issues. Power for the flasher and BOO goes through the ignition switch. Do the headlights or front parking lights work?

3.Highly unlikely with modern serpentine systems. If that was it, you'd likely see output drop at high RPM (when most belts slip).

4. A bad ground or connector issue in the trunk is where I'd go first (I'd be doing lots of test light or meter reading back there to see what's going on). Here's your lighting circuit.

5. Interesting. We need input from someone (I'd start a new thread just for that question if it looks likely) as to what happens when a keyless brain takes a dump. I dont know if it's passive and still allows normal function to occur or if it can be an impediment to the door locks and lighting. EDIT: I just looked at the lighting aspect of it and it looks like it should *not* hinder lighting performance. The brain tee's into the lighting circuit, rather than the power to the lights running through it. End Edit.

At this point, I'd really go over everything you touched during the install (you might be able to not remove the center console again if you just remove the ashtray and center console bin to view wires). Double check fuses (I would pull every fuse one at a time and reinstall them - particularily the underhood fuses). And check the PDC connection.

You're having massive failures and in checking schematics I cannot find one commonality, which makes it tough. I may not be much help but if you keep posting what you find, myself or someone else can think aloud with you and perhaps finally see something that's 'haywire'.

Good luck.

 

[Bosko5.0]

well iam only geting 3v to the BOO switch, so iam going to trace the wire, youve been very helpful,and i thank you for that.

 

[mo_dingo]

well iam only geting 3v to the BOO switch, so iam going to trace the wire, youve been very helpful,and i thank you for that.

are you sure that your ground was good when testing the boo? You should have verified the ground source from another 12V source before testing the boo. Not doubting your abilities, just didn't want you to be chasing an apparition.

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

also verify grounds....andy battery connections

 

[Bosko5.0]

well the #9 fuse to the BOO switch isnt getting any power but it has resistance the goes from 11,000 and it goes down too 0 then goes back up. I am not sure what would cause the flucuation.
# 9 fuse has no power,
iam taking my MF switch home and testing it to see if it is also at fault

 

[Bosko5.0]

I replaced the MF switch since the old one wasnt giving the correct readings, and still the same problem.

Does anybody know how to test a flasher relay? i heard there is two of them where is the other?

I hooked a wire from the battery to the wire the hooks to the boo switch, and still no lights.

What would cause the third brake light not to work?

HISSIN50 you said earlier the power for the boo switch and flasher goes through the ignition switch, is this before the fuse box or after?