Many Maintenance Items (oil Leaks)

[Martman]

Bought the car back in the summer. All stock 91 GT T-5

So I knew I had a rear main leak and was prepping to replace it. So last night I finally got under the car and found some other items that I need to address.

See the pics but in addition to the rear main I think I have these others if someone can help me confirm.:

• Oil level sending unit. Also need to drain plug.
• T-5 leaking through tail shaft (it is whining so I am sure they ran this low before which is something else I am going to tear into).

One thing that caught me by surprise was the motor mount. They look to be fairly new but you can see it is missing the rearward bolt and it doesn't even match up with the hole.




Does this mean that is the incorrect motor mount? Installed incorrectly? Etc..

 

[Martman]

So after thinking about the amount that side is off I thought maybe it was due to an incorrect motor mount. So I looked at AZ and found that maybe these are the wrong mounts and are for a convertible.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Convertible mounts are actually preferred as they sit slightly lower, and are a bit stiffer to use. Many aftermarket mounts model the vert mounts. I believe Ford discontinued the hardtop mounts long before the vert mounts and made them the universal replacement.

Anyway, what prob happened is the weight of the engine has slightly bent the mount due to it not being properly bolted up. The bolt could have vibrated our, or the PO got lazy, who knows. Ideally I like to bolt them to engine first, and then bolt the mount to the K-member.

As far as your oil pan leaks, they do make a new gasket for the sensor. I think I got it from rockauto, along with gaskets for the oil pan plugs. I've experimented with different plugs and found that a pair of plugs I got from AZ with rubber impregnated around the washer have worked pretty well to prevent pan leaks.

Rear T-5 bushing could be an issue. Grab the yoke and wiggle it around. Should be no play, if it does move, the bushing needs to get change. To do it with the trans together requires a unique tool, otherwise you need to pull the tailhousing off. If there's no play, replace the seal and call it a day. I recommend when you remove the D/S, to throw the 4 bolts away and get 4 new ones.

 

[General karthief]

Mark the drive shaft so it mates back up to the rear in the same place

 

[Martman]

The yoke definitely has play and I think when I replaced the U-Joints it had visible grooves in the yoke (figured I would deal with it when I did rear main). I will be pulling the trans out to check the main shaft for galling due to whine.

I will try and find the gasket for the sensor and will get a new drain plug as I had a heck of a time getting out last time.

 

[Dan02gt]

I have had a lot of the same issues with my 91. You definitely have to vert mounts just like I used on mine. The problem is they usually don't fit exactly right and require some trimming. My guess is whoever installed them didn't trim the mounts to fit. Instead they just left the bolt out.

My oil level sensor was also leaking but not around the gasket. It was leaking internally. I used to the elimination plug from LMR instead of fiddling with a new $60 sensor.

I would highly recommend using the Felpro Teflon rear main seal. I used a factory replacement to begin with and it leaked worse than the original. No leaks with the Teflon seal though.

Sounds like your on the right track with the trans leak.

 

[Martman]

Got the the tran out today and have a decent amount of end play on the input shaft. I am going to assume it has been apart and wasn't shimmed correctly or just worn. In return, has probably galled the shaft even more.

Quick video of the end play. I also had to cut the exhaust off since at some point they welded the h-pipe flanges to the mid pipes. Its going to be fun getting the wife on board to get all of this "fixed".

https://goo.gl/photos/SSmgxJ2EFHYmqCg96

 

[Martman]

Got everything out and been cleaning. Which is why I hate oil leaks. I have a video below of the back of the motor. Would like some opinions if this looks to be a rear main, oil pan, both. Note I have already replaced the valve cover gaskets that were leaking pretty badly. I really want to take care of any leaks while I have this broke down like this. If you see anything else let me know. I am going to replace that smog crossover tube as well I believe while I have this broke down since I have easy access to the bolts.

https://goo.gl/photos/AkNi47m4JPnfNzV57

I would like to post that these wood cribs are the best thing I have built yet for getting a car up high and solid. I don't like or trust jack stands and most can't get high enough without over extending them in my opinion. These are 3 2x4's each and glued. I have a nail gun but screws can be used as well. So when you think about the cost at $40.00 for the set you can't beat it.

https://goo.gl/photos/1xmfGZxohYNcTcoHA

 

[General karthief]

Rear main and I would yank the lower intake, the back looks to be leaking also replace the rubber grommet and screen for the pcv and a new pcv valve.
Get that done and clean it up real good then see if the pan gasket need replaced
Nice garage.

 

[Martman]

I order all new gaskets for intake and I had even thought about that. I hate cleaning all of this stuff after the POs have let it leak for so long.

The garage is filthy right now and summer stuff being stored in there right now too.LOL

 

[General karthief]

My garage looks like a garbage truck dumped a load inside, moved from 1200 sqft to a 14' x 24' and a car port.

 

[Dan02gt]

Definitely looks like the lower intake is leaking. I know mine sure was. The cork gasket pretty much fell apart when I took it off.

 

[Martman]

Did you all use the rubber felpro end gaskets for the lower and just finish them off with a dab of black rtv at the bend?

 

[Dan02gt]

Did you all use the rubber felpro end gaskets for the lower and just finish them off with a dab of black rtv at the bend?

I actually put a light coat of black RTV the entire length of the rubber felpro end gaskets both on the top and bottom.

 

[Martman]

Sounds good. Now I need some ideas on the best way to get all of that built up oil and gunk cleaned off. Keep in mind it is in the garage and will need to be cleaned in the garage with me under it. So water hose and such are not an option. I though that about brake cleaner with some catch pans under the car.

I hate a car that is this nasty to work on.

 

[Dan02gt]

I used the WD40 specialist grease remover and shop towels on mine. It's not very harsh so it doesn't burn if you get it on you. I put cardboard on the concrete to catch all the mess that was dripping off everything.

I'm just like you I hate a greasy, nasty, leaking car.

 

[Martman]

Okay I need some ideas on how to get that motor mount aligned. I have put a ratchet strap in an attempt to pull and them use some banging to knock it over but it isn't budging. I have the other bolts loose on all mounts. I find it crazy this thing is off this much. And not sure why the po just thought it was okay to leave it like this.

 

[General karthief]

I would try a new mount or remove both and compare them, something is obviously wrong and I doubt it's the block holes.

 

[Dan02gt]

It's possible the mounts are wrong. The drivers and passengers side are different but look similar. They could have put them on the wrong side or used 2 passenger or driver mounts.

The bolt holes in my drivers side mount would line up due to the mount hitting the block so a little trimming was required.

 

[Martman]

Since I have the trans and everything out I figure I am at a bit of disadvantage of pulling these out right now without a cherry picker. So I am going to work on getting the rear main and trans stuff done and will pull these and replace them when I have some rear support by the trans to also help align the motor. I removed the one bolt and as soon as I did that mount basically twisted a 1/4 inch. Something isn't right so will probably pull them both and replace them.