Mark VIII Fan Wiring Questions

[ImportSlayer347]

I recently established that my 2,800 cfm electric fan is not doing a very good job at keeping the Stroker cool. I ordered a Mark VIII fan and I am planning the wiring before starting the install. My research has me conflicted. The install "How To" write ups for the Mark VIII fan I came across recommend using a 30 amp fuse and 30 amp relay. However, I also found that these fans use around 80-90 amps when starting up.

Should I use an 80 amp relay with a 100 amp circuit breaker to maintain that high current?

My other question is will my Hayden thermal control switch handle that amount of current?

This is the switch I bought...
Hayden Automotive 3653 - Hayden Electric Fan Controls - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Disregard the second question. I suppose if I put the thermal switch on the ignition side of the relay, current load shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Mustang5L5]

They way I do my fan setup is to let any controller or switch I use activate a relay.

They have the main fan power run through a #8 wire through a 75a relay with a 60A maxi-fuse.

75a relay - Google Search

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Thats the way I was thinking. I may put a circuit breaker on it instead of a maxi fuse. Thanks for the link. I couldn't remember the manufacturer. I wish there was a place locally that sold them. Hate having to wait for shipping.

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Napa has them for $53. I guess I will wait for shipping.

 

[steelie4u]

I u se a DCC controller and it works awesome, its all adjustable and very accurate my car never gets above 195 even on the hottest days

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Where can I find one of these DCC controllers?

 

[HISSIN50]

Welcome to Delta Current Control

 

[ImportSlayer347]

My fan arrived this week and I checked the part number. It is from a '94 Thunderbird. I really wish the people on Ebay selling fans wouldn't advertise them as Mark VIII fans if that isn't what they are. They look identical but I am hearing these don't spin as fast as the MK8 fans. I'm gonna try it and see if it is sufficient. Crap.

 

[bgoins]

That does suck. Seems like the people who have the DCC controlers like them but they are $ and I've heard they take a while to get because they are made to order

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Well apparently this thunderbird fan is single speed. I'm just gonna wire it up with a 75 amp relay, 100 amp circuit breaker, and I'll put the thermal switch on the ignition side of the relay. I'll set the fan to come on at 180 which will match my thermostat. I'm just hoping this solves the problem. I'm tired of messing around with this.

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Good News:
I got the fan installed with some shroud trimming. I also had to move the radiator about 1/4". All wired up nice and neat. It was holding at a steady 190 at idle.

Bad News:
I noticed a leak somewhere dripping off the bottom of the radiator. I can't win. FML.

 

[HISSIN50]

Well apparently this thunderbird fan is single speed. I'm just gonna wire it up with a 75 amp relay, 100 amp circuit breaker, and I'll put the thermal switch on the ignition side of the relay. I'll set the fan to come on at 180 which will match my thermostat. I'm just hoping this solves the problem. I'm tired of messing around with this.

You'll want the fan settings phased above that of the t-stat's fully open temp. If your stat is fully open at 180* (assuming you have a balanced t-stat), you could use 200/190 on/off.

 

[steelie4u]

You'll want the fan settings phased above that of the t-stat's fully open temp. If your stat is fully open at 180* (assuming you have a balanced t-stat), you could use 200/190 on/off.

thats how i set mine

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Everything with the fan is good, but the damn radiator is leaking where I put one of the radiator ties through. Tiny leak somewhere between the fins. I don't know what to do now. Probably try some Bar's Leak.

 

[HISSIN50]

You know what to do. Mount the fan using brackets (not pull-throughs) and have a shop fix the rad (if the rad is older, weigh the cost of repair vs a fresh rad).

 

[mob]

I regret using pull throughs now. I almost would rather have left the stock fan clutch on.

 

[ratio411]

Disregard the second question. I suppose if I put the thermal switch on the ignition side of the relay, current load shouldn't be a problem.

True.

We are about to do an SN-95 fan (~60 amps from what I am told), and we'll be using that same adjustable controller.

Now to read the rest of the thread and get ideas!

 

[ratio411]

Yeah, I thought about pull-throughs, but quickly ruled them out.
The worst part about retrofitting stock parts is they are not very user friendly when it comes to custom mounting.

 

[ImportSlayer347]

Well after emoving the fan, I found the leak. It was NOT where I put the pull-through straps. It is a tiny nick where I think I nicked it with a drill bit by accident. It is a tiny pinhole. I am thinking I will just clean the hell out of it and use some JB Weld or some kind of aluminum epoxy. It is very easy to get to without removing the radiator.

Any ideas as to what I should use? I was also considering soldering it.

Side note: Mounting with pull-through straps worked just fine. It stayed in place nicely and looked very clean. I put a thin layer of foam padding in between the shroud and the radiator. Sealed it airtight.