well ive posted about 5 diff topics this month about my weird loss of power and idle problem well today i unplugged maf and checked the volts between c-d and only got .5 also with the meter unplugged car idles like it was brand new.....so is it the c&L meter or just the mass air flow sensor that scdrews into the top of the meter.....l
mass air woes..need help`
- Thread starter 91lxntch
- Start date
Generally, it work best if you only make one post when you have a problem so you don't get repeat answers for the things you have already done. Continuity helps us all work together better.
Seven things come to mind:
1.) Is there 12 volts between the red & black/lt green wires for the MAF?
2.) Have you tried turning the MAF assembly (clocking it) to a different position?
3.) Has the MAF element been cleaned, if not clean it with electrical cleaner or non-flammable brake parts cleaner.
4.) Do you have the correct sample tube for your C&L meter? Is it installed snugly in the MAF housing?
5.) Are there any leaks in the ducting between the MAF & throttle body?
6.) Have you tried replacing the MAF sensor?
7.) have you tried measuring the MAF voltage between pins 50 (dark blue/orage wire) & 9 (tan/lt blue wire) while the car is moving?
There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element casing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.
The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.
At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt
Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.
There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
Seven things come to mind:
1.) Is there 12 volts between the red & black/lt green wires for the MAF?
2.) Have you tried turning the MAF assembly (clocking it) to a different position?
3.) Has the MAF element been cleaned, if not clean it with electrical cleaner or non-flammable brake parts cleaner.
4.) Do you have the correct sample tube for your C&L meter? Is it installed snugly in the MAF housing?
5.) Are there any leaks in the ducting between the MAF & throttle body?
6.) Have you tried replacing the MAF sensor?
7.) have you tried measuring the MAF voltage between pins 50 (dark blue/orage wire) & 9 (tan/lt blue wire) while the car is moving?
There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element casing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.
The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.
At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt
Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.
There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
well i also got a code 66 which backs up my ..statement..
answer to your q's
1.yes there is 12v's between those
2.no i have not i didnt think that would effect the volts..i will try that
3.yes i cleaned it
4.yes it is a purple tube calibrated for my 30 inj
5. no leaks
6. i have not replaced it yet im going to take off my freinds sensor and screw it onto my mass air unit and see if it helps
7.no i havent
what is the proper way to check maf volts maybe i did somthign wrong ..do u check the with the sensor unplugged(anotherwords do you check the volts coming to the plug.)or do you probe into the wires on the harness while it is plugged in...
like i said it fixed my idle perfectly and i got .5 when i checked it
answer to your q's
1.yes there is 12v's between those
2.no i have not i didnt think that would effect the volts..i will try that
3.yes i cleaned it
4.yes it is a purple tube calibrated for my 30 inj
5. no leaks
6. i have not replaced it yet im going to take off my freinds sensor and screw it onto my mass air unit and see if it helps
7.no i havent
what is the proper way to check maf volts maybe i did somthign wrong ..do u check the with the sensor unplugged(anotherwords do you check the volts coming to the plug.)or do you probe into the wires on the harness while it is plugged in...
like i said it fixed my idle perfectly and i got .5 when i checked it
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