Total Valve lift has Zero to do with Piston to Valve clearance.
When the valve is at full lift, the piston is at the bottom of the bore, and farthest away from the valve.
The most critical point is the Overlap. This is when both the Exhaust and Intake valve are slightly open, and the piston it at TDC(or close to it).
Why does the cam specs have valve sizes in it?
If those are actuall .050 specs, thats Solid Roller territory.
No clue if it will work. Just check the Piston the Valve clearance before hand.
Didn't want to yank the heads to check the PTV clearance- like I said, this is "project el cheapo" lol.
You don't have to yank the heads. You can use the "drop valve" method. It won't tell you how close the sideways clearance is but it will tell you how far the valve is from the face of the piston. As long as you're using the stock valves with a stock piston the sideways clearance isn't an issue anyway.
Pull all of the spark plugs out of the engine. Put a degree wheel on and bring number 1 up to 20° BTC. With the rocker arms removed measure the height of the valve stem tip or zero it out. Now remove the keepers and springs and let the valves drop down onto the top of the piston. Take that measurement and write it down. Then move the crank so the piston is 10° BTC. Take the measurement again. Then go to 0° (TDC), 10° ATDC and 20° ATDC. Now you have your clearances.
Don't turn the crank too far or you will be removing the head to get those valves out of the cylinders.
I've ever done it that way, that's a piece of cake! Thanks for the advice!
But if the valve falls all the way in, can't I just crank it as hard as possible until it comes back out?
No, no, no! You want to use a 3/4" impact turned all the way up. No point in straining yourself!
I was thinking of using my like 3' long 1/2" breaker bar with a jack handle on the end. Thank you again for the info!
Just off the top of your head though, are there any off the shelf cams you would recommend for this motor that are known to not have clearance issues? It is going in a gutted fox chassis with 4:10's, so I'm assuming I'm going to have to get some R's out of it, but others have said the heads don't flow worth crap up top.
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