Maximum Motorsports Control Arm Install

I decided since it was 85 degrees outside today, I might as well put these in to see if they are worth the money. They went in fairly easy with the exception of a few things. MM says to jack car up and put the rear axle on jackstands, I used a lift and would recommend the same, especially if your arms have never been out, because of seized nutz and boltz. I replaced mine last year and the bolts came out easily.

Here's what I started with.

Last year I took the stock control arms, boxed them with 1/4 inch thick steel, and used Energy Suspension Poly bushing at both ends. It made the car handle and hook better, but I wanted more.


After I got the lower bolt out, I realized I had to take the muffler out to get to the bolt holding the arm in at the chassis, time consuming, but not a PITA. Much more of a bitch if I did not have dumps.


Here's a pic of how worn out my rear spring isolators were from Auto-Xing, so I replaced them with a kit I bought from MM. It's poly, made by Prothane I think.


As you can see, the MM part is a much stouter piece. It also uses a 3 piece bushing at the chassis and a spherical busing at the axle to pivot.


Here's the finished result.

And another...


The only part that sucked was that since I did not have the axle on jackstands, the control arm would not line up with the axle part. It was more than an inch off! So I had to put a tranny jack underneath the diff, and lower the lift onto that to compress the suspension. The passenger side went in no problem. The driver side, would not line up. So I called upon my dad, and he brought over a huge prybar and we pushed the axle to line up with the arm. Took 5 minutes...and I swear I messed around by myslef trying to line it up for a good 45 minutes....blah. I was also able to remove the quad shocks.

Results....

If I was into drag racing, I would nut myself. My car launches much better, and seems to bite harder. Also, around corners, the back seems completely different. This is by far one of the best suspension mods I have done. It took awhile to do...nothing difficult, but well worth it. Oh well, that's it. Then End.

I did the PHB first because I got it for 125.00....It's a griggs severe duty adjustable PHB, and they are not made anymore. The guy that I bought it from didn't want it because his MM rear sway bar would not fit with that PHB so he sold it. Even though it was used, and I had to mock up a few pieces, it was worth it. Ironically enough, I got these arms for 125.00 on Ebay that were onlt test fitted supposedly. The guy listed them wrong as racing control arms. Didn't put MM in the title so he got very few looks at his auction.

I do have the stock uppers that I boxed as well. I liked the way my boxed rears did, I wanted MM stuff so I got these because the price was right. I like the Griggs unit myself, and I like how it is a weld in. I love MM stuff, and would buy them over any other company anyday. The only thing that I am not fond of, is their PHB is bolt in, and with the abuse I put my car through, I would rather have a weld in piece over a bolt in.

Oh I forgot to add, I did the PHB second. I did box my stock control arms with 1/4 inch steel which made them way more rigid. The stock arms, you can literally flex with your hands, that's how crappy they are.

Honeslty guys, the LCA's and PHB make the car feel like...not a mustang, if that makes sense.

old_blue said:

I plan on running a set from blue oval

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Those are not a good idea. Polyurethane at both ends will induce bind in the rear. This will cause snap oversteer when cornering and the rear end will come out on you. I had this happen at the race track. Sure you will notice more traction, but poly is worse than rubber even though it grips better, because it makes the rear unpredictable.

Daggar said:

It's my undertanding though (meaning I've not tried it) that a pan-hard bar will fix that problem and take care of that bind.

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Actually, my panhard bar did not save me with the poly bushings in the LCA's. It made the car feel more controlled, but there is that point.....

Your tires will grip grip grip grip and then bang, they will break loose and you are done. I did a complete 360 and then some. On the track, no problem, on the street, it might mean death.

And to PoopDawg, they are worth the money if you do any kind real driving, whether it be drag racing or Auto X. One of the best suspension mods I have done so far.