Maximum Motorsports Control Arm Install

Marlboro_Man said:
5lugFoxFanatic--and--PoopDawg

So the whole poly bushing causing bind and making the rear end "slide out" is that only a problem for people trying to corner fast? I say this because i do not and will not be doing any aggressive cornering. I "simply" want to go fast in a stright line. I won't be doing any autoxing , only drag racing.
 
Marlboro_Man said:
Those are what i'm planning on ordering this week as well. I will be adding torque box reinforcements as well as welding all the seams at the same time.


5lugFoxFanatic--and--PoopDawg

So the whole poly bushing causing bind and making the rear end "slide out" is that only a problem for people trying to corner fast? I say this because i do not and will not be doing any aggressive cornering. I "simply" want to go fast in a stright line. I won't be doing any autoxing , only drag racing.

If you are going fast in a straight line those should work. But, you do not want Poly bushings in the upper arms. IMO, unless you are doing some serious insane drag racing where you are putting a ton of power to the ground, I would not even touch the uppers. Not only are they a PITA to do, but the diff bushing is a bitch to remove and you will notice very little by doing them. I boxed my upper arms, but if you want your car to hook, and hook well, you need to get some good LCA's. I would suggest the MM weight jacker drag racing control arms. They have the spherical bushings at both ends and allow the axle to move while all of that power surges through the suspension making sure your tires bite, hook, and you are off to the races. Also, you can lift the rear of the car to accomodate bigger tires without taking the arms off. I think you use an impact gun? Or maybe a wrench? I dunno, call them. If you do not want to spend the money, those should work, as anything is better than stock. The stock arms suck, and you can bend the with your hands, no not bend, I mean flex them. Just make sure whatever brand you get is beefy and solid. That's my advice, but then, I am not into drag racing, so you may be better off getting the advice of a drag racer and what arms they use that yields good results on the track. That's what I'd do.
 
the spherical ends aren't really needed in the lowers, as I understand it...also, not many people realize that spherical bushings "SHOULD" be taken apart at least once a year to clean them for regualr maintenance.

They're a little overkill for the average street car if you ask me. I have the aluminum Steeda uppers and lowers. The uppers don't use a spherical bushing, but they also don't use a solid one either. It's a 3 piece one that can still move better than a solid one can and reduce torque box strain.

The Steeda urethane bushings are hard in the center, but softer on the outside to provide a better feel than just a solid bushing or a hard poly bushing.

Whatever you decide, don't get the BlueOval ones IMO...also, get some damn subframe connectors!