McLeod twin disc meet the hype? Update: We're going to find out...

Noobz347 said:

The $50k Fox thread has a good (and lengthy) writeup of what I"m talking about. I made jest of the whole process because it looked like images from NASA's space program.

Click to expand...

Link? I'd like to read this one. After about 5 attempts, I finally feel like I've got my discs properly installed. I think my original street twin is harder to set up properly than the RST, though. It uses a proprietary flywheel.

2000xp8 said:

I'm really after smooth engagement and light pedal effort (I guess everybody is).
Thanks for any input.

Click to expand...

You'll definitely get this. I cannot speak to the RST, but my "Original Street Twin" is a 1200 hp rated clutch. I think it, like the RST, is organic. The pedal effort is lighter than the stock pedal. Engagement is super smooth. Doesn't chatter and isn't on/off like my Spec 3+. It is an absolute bitch to set up right, though. Take your time, and check every measurement carefully if you go this route. The advantage over the RST is the capacity. The advantage over the RXT is both capacity and smoother engagement, but the draw back is that it doesn't like a lot of heat (neither does the RST) that you're likely to see at a drag strip. Also, it's not as good at high rpm. I get roll out at 6500+ rpm. I think the other two can go well over 7k.

If you don't get it set up properly, you'll ruin a very expensive clutch and possibly tranny synchros in short order. If you don't get the air gaps right, then the friction discs will either engage slightly with the flywheel or the floater.

One consideration is to run an aluminum flywheel. Twin discs are bulkier, heavier clutches than singles and they are much harder grabbing. This leads to higher forces in the drivetrain on the launch. The offset in flywheel weight can make a good chunk of this up, and the aluminum flywheel twin will feel more like a single disc with a steel flywheel. Perhaps your TKO will be stout enough to handle it if you're not dead hooking on drag radials. Have no idea what you're running in the rear. But, I'm just suggesting that you look into it.

Gear grabber said:

I have the McLeod RXT,pedal effort is light. My street car has stiff wall slicks,i leave on 2 kits regularly,
clutch does not seem to notice. For a race clutch,engagement is fairly smooth. Not butter,but not bad at all.
Because of the light pedal,and holding power I will buy another when it goes.

Click to expand...

I'm highly considering this route (RXT 1200) instead of the OST in the future, if the new "gnat's ass" install doesn't resolve the heat trouble I've had after burnouts and multiple runs before.

Great setup! Love the feel of the 3-link rear.

I'll probably stick with the steel flywheel. I think that's even what McLeod suggests.

Click to expand...

If that's the case, I would like to see it.

If you bought a promotion product, I imagine you have some respect for Walt's opinion. I certainly do. Maybe give him a call? From his website (LINK):

We recommend running Aluminum Flywheels with these RST/RXT application due to there being more inetria weight with twin disc assemblies, and for the simple fact at these horespower levels the car makes enough torque for dead weight launches, you can tame the car down by not having so much weight in the rotating assembly of the clutch.

Click to expand...

A direct phone conversation with him on the subject is what convinced me to go aluminum. Prior to this, I've run steel forever.

Also, are you tracking, and is your billet flywheel good for: (LINK)

NOTE: 2001.5 to 2010 Mustang 4.6L/5.4L factory flywheels may not work due to the large crank relief in the center of the flywheel. Crank relief must be 6.250" or smaller for correct disc to flywheel contact.

Click to expand...