I agree with everything 'cept the t5 being unreliable, I have been abusing my t5 for about 50k miles. No track stuff but I'm not afraid to dump the clutch from a roll, I'm also smart enough not to use sticky tires. Just know it's limits.
Drivetrain T56 Magnum Install '89 Fox
- Thread starter CHILL347
- Start date
Obviously, I care. Suit yourself if you don't use a dyno to compare the pros and cons of parts that you might choose between, but I do, and so do many others. What good is the information? Well, for starters, this is my hobby, and I ENJOY obsessing over the details. I enjoy optimizing my combination to get it to the goldilocks standard for me - just right. Transmissions are also a big amount of money to spend. So, I appreciate a full understanding of the pros and cons before making my decision or advising others to make the right decision.
It's a bigger deal to many than you're making it out to be. In fact, I'd wager that @Mustang5L5 is considering this very topic, if he hasn't already come to a conclusion on the matter. Further, aftermarket T5s can be made plenty stout for about 95% of the enthusiast market out there that'll be happy at the limit of the stock block (and beyond). Further that that, 4th gear is the same in both transmissions and the first 3 are variable to your liking when you're smart about which internals you want to use. So, your implication that T5s and T56s are meant for different powerbands overlooks quite a bit of the option available, especially when you're doing custom gearing, as you would if you're trying to make 500+ ft-lbs through a T5 with some reliability.
I get what Fast is say'n (I can call you Fast right?) and I read about a lot of builds, some stuff is actually built to abuse (love my Car Craft mag!) I notice a fair amount of t5 stuff, but the shop builds are (most) always talking t56 and more so 3550, I'm curious to know the difference in hp between them. Like years ago when a 9" was compared to the 8 .8 for parasitic loss.
In reality? I'm just glad mine starts and goes when I get behind the wheel.
In reality? I'm just glad mine starts and goes when I get behind the wheel.
I see that what I wrote sounds not good to those who's minds are in the gutter but, what is a ct?
I'll give ya a hint... I once said My dad had a bra on his '89 Fox body... and the rest is history.
You are taking the comment out of context. Who cares means ONLY as a dyno number, this difference is irrelevant. So if a T56 shows a loss. Most will still use it due to gear ratio choices, it shifts better and it's stronger. Too many other variable.
For a single comparable part like a rear axle. If you have 2 same ratios, same weight, same cost. Then yes, the more efficient one will get the go ahead.
As for reliable. Sure they are. I had a stock 88 LX 5.0 that went 400,000kms and sold as still a fully functioning car that shifted great. I trust that trans.
Compared to a T56, no, they are not AS reliable even compared to Astro or G Force.
For a single comparable part like a rear axle. If you have 2 same ratios, same weight, same cost. Then yes, the more efficient one will get the go ahead.
As for reliable. Sure they are. I had a stock 88 LX 5.0 that went 400,000kms and sold as still a fully functioning car that shifted great. I trust that trans.
Compared to a T56, no, they are not AS reliable even compared to Astro or G Force.
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I also bought the same kit from D&D Performance. I have a question for you since I haven't been able to get a response back from D&D. Don suggested I set the pivot ball stud at 1.325" from the front cover. Is this measurement to the flat side of the ball or to the very tip? I want to set this correct before I make the front cover mods.
Old post bump but I can't send PM's. How as the long term results of this been? I am currently running a SBF T56 with the higher up 9 o-clock clutch fork and have no issues at all clearing the BBK 1 3/4th headers. My concern is I do a ton of open track and swapping to a magnum I'm concerned everything being so close to the header will nuke the cable. Did you have any issues with the throw out sleeve rubbing the clutch discs? I have read on a few pages the dual disc clutches often need the TOB sleeve trimmed down or they don't fully release.
I have a t56, albeit not a magnum, in all three of my cars. That can be true. And I think it's what's going on in one of my two cars with a twin disc right now. That car has a D&D aluminum bell housing with at 9:00 Fork position. I suspect the dimensions are different on the viperspec input shaft and therefore collar length. In my car with the modified 03 Cobra case with different gears and a 26spline input, I'm pretty sure that input shaft is shorter and with the quarter inch spacer plate between the bell housing and the block that QuickTime sells along with the QuickTime bell housing, I don't have any issues. These cars are turbo cars and the downpipe comes down on the passenger side, so there's no interference issues at all with the clutch cable.
My daily driver, however, has BBK 1 and 5/8 in LT headers. I'm not nuking cables but if you check out my Blackjack thread I documented the install well enough. You saw some of the pictures over on Corral if I remember correctly in the last couple of days. I run a Steeda cable, I've got it heat wrapped, and routed correctly and I am not having any cable problems.
I am not running at T56 but in my '83 Thunderbird I have a 351W with 1-7/8" primary custom long tubes to 3-1/2" collectors with a Tremec TKO and a SROD bell housing. I nuked a clutch cable from the heat off the headers. The solution was a new BBK cable which got heat wrapped and I have had zero issues since.
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Mindseye007
5 Year Member
Nice work man! Looks great! Those long tubes sure make things tight under there, that's for sure. Glad it's working good for you. High quality stuff no questio
Welcome to stangnet! This is the best forum I've found for fox body stangs for sure. Lots of knowledgable and good folks here.Looks amazing nice work, Wonder how the T56 Magnum and 4.56 rear gears would be on the street with a foxbody? I love my 4.10 gears with my Z-Spec T5 with the 2.95 1st gear on my 1991LX 5.0 coupe.Hey everyone. New to the forum but not new to the Fox Body world. Not an expert either by any means. I've had my '89 notch since 2005. I figured I'd share my experience with my recent T56 Magnum install. Bought the close ratio version as a kit in the spring that came with everything I needed except for a driveshaft. My engine is an R block 347 with AFR 185 heads NA. Dyno'd @370/362whp/tq. So nothing crazy but definitely too much for the infamous T5 the way I like to shift. (That's what it made with the stock A9L computer and SCT chip. I now have a MSPNP2 and am still currently tuning it)
Parts:
-Tremec T56 Magnum Close Ratio
-McLeod RST Dual Disc Clutch
-QuickTime SFI Bell Housing
-Ford Racing 31 Spline Driveshaft Yoke
-SN95 Clutch Fork (had to modify for my application)
-Couple of pigtails for the reverse light switch and reverse lockout solenoid
-Stifflers Transmission Crossmember
I run BBK long tube headers which made the install a bit of a pain in butt. In order to even get the Bell Housing installed I had to unbolt both headers. Then came the test fitting. This involved bolting the transmission in a few times to see what needed to be modified. I had to trim one of the tabs on the passenger side of the trans housing. I had to massage the trans tunnel where the shifter base sits. I had to trim about an inch off the clutch fork and modify the hole for the cable. I had to massage the driver side header for clutch fork and cable clearance. I had to adjust my adjustable clutch fork pivot ball which is recommended to use with dual disc clutches as they are thicker. Then I had to measure my driveshaft and see how much needed to come off. I took it to a driveline shop where I had them shorten my driveshaft by exactly 3 inches and install the 31 spline yoke. Once it was finally all installed I had to do a small amount of wiring. I had to wire in the reverse light switch as well as the reverse lockout solenoid. The reverse lockout solenoid I wired into my LineLock/2 step button on my shifter. Some wire it into the brake pedal switch but to me I already had a switch readily available and easy to tie into close by.
It was a successful summer with the new transmission and clutch. Clutch feels great, light and very smooth. The transmission feels great too and it feels cool driving a 6 speed Fox. I ran Redline synthetic ATF at first and then I ordered Tremec Transmission oil right from Tremec to replace the Redline after breaking it in.
The factory speedo cable also reaches and works for the T56 Magnum install. All I had to do was adjust where it was clamped on the firewall to get extra length.
Mindseye007
5 Year Member
Mindseye007
5 Year Member
Mindseye007
5 Year Member
Just used header wrap. Believe it was Design Engineering but would think any decent one would work. Came with stainless ties so has held up well.
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