mechanical or electrical gauges

[88_GT_5_oh]

this may have been covered, i tried searching but came up with nothing, so which is better?, i want oil pres. and water temp, as well as volts.

i'm kinda worried about plumbing a line into the car for a mechanical oil, and water gauge, i'm worried about leaking or breaking.
any input is welcome, just curious how many of you have these mechanical ones and if you have had trouble

 

[manpowermustang]

I did a poet on this about a month or so ago. "mechanical or electric gauges" about 30 responses.

Look it up once.

 

[HISSIN50]

mech water temp gauge uses a capillary tube - no water inside the car. you just need a decent sized hole in the firewall to get the (often times) bulbous sender through. i prefer mech water temps gauges.

oil pressure- your choice. you will have hot oil in the lines. i have done and used both (elec and mech) oil pressure gauges. i think elec gauges are so good these days, that running an electrical gauge is the best way to go. some upper-end gauges (AM for one) have 270* sweep gauges that are electric. cool.

good luck.

 

[giddyup306]

Go with electrical. Electrical is just as accurate as mechanical. Check it out at Auto Meters site. They have a good write up on the matter. That way you don't have to worrie about getting oil all over your interior.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

dumb question, but when you buy electrical ones do they come with a sending unit? or can you re-use the stock one?

 

[HISSIN50]

new gauge should include the new sender for that particular gauge. the chances of the gauges being calibrated the same are very slim (i.e. dont use the stock sender for an aftermarket gauge, and vice verse). also one cannot run two gauges from one sender.

good luck.

 

[Look Its Aaron]

Go with electrical. Electrical is just as accurate as mechanical. Check it out at Auto Meters site. They have a good write up on the matter. That way you don't have to worrie about getting oil all over your interior.

uhm i dont think the mechanical oil pressure gauge has any oil comming into the cabin. I know for a fact the mechanical water temperature has no water commin in the cabin.

I would go with mechanical over electrical.

 

[HISSIN50]

uhm i dont think the mechanical oil pressure gauge has any oil comming into the cabin. I know for a fact the mechanical water temperature has no water commin in the cabin.

um, actually the oil pressure gauge does have liquid goin' to the gauge. they often come with a plastic (nylon) line. people upgrade to a braided line or copper (which can chatter).
as i said in my first post, mech water temp gauges use a capillary tube (no liquid in the cockpit).

 

[jerry beach]

I have put mech. ones in all my cars that have over 75,000 miles or so (most of them). I have never had a leak and I love the instant reading. They are in no way affected by your electrical system also. Its the most direct reading you can get with no sender to go bad on you. The temp is a simple thermometer/capilary tube, I have no idea why they cost so much. The elec. ones will be easier to install, so if thats a concern go with them.

A good trick I read here was to put the oil tube inside some 5/32" ID vacuum line. That way a leak in the cabin will be diverted down the line to the lower sending unit end. This also protects them from heat and nicks. I have never had a leak in the passenger compartment, but I had long tubes burn through one once. Smoke everywhere, that was no fun. I have a cap for it in my trunk so if it ever leaks I can shut it off and drive home. I had a copper line, but my dad told me to ditch it cause they will crack from vibration.

 

[giddyup306]

with no sender to go bad on you.

This is why most people go with mechanical gagues in the first place. However if you are talking about an extreme shock load situation, you are suposed to remotely mount your sender (I have my oil sender in the bulkhead with foam surronding it). Either way you can't really go wrong. I've given my $.02 on the matter. The rest is up to you.

Hope it helps

 

[Mustang5L5]

I have a mech oil pressure and water temp gauge inside my car as well as a mech fuel pressure gauge on the cowl.

I prefer mech as they are cheaper and offer a wider sweep range vs *most* electrical gauges.

Full sweep electrics are more expensive and not available for all guage types yet.

Despite what you would think, it wasn't that hard to moute two mech gauges here

 

[Michael Yount]

In this day and age, there's little reason to worry about fluids getting where they shouldn't be, and no reason to think a quality mechanical gauge is much more accurate than a quality electrical gauge.

It's largely a matter of preference. We can tell you what we like; but you'll have to decide what you like.

My counsel - whatever you decide, save a bit more and get a quality product. They're the early warning system for your engine - don't skimp there. Me - I prefer VDO gauges, and I stick with the OEM's whenever I can. I have tach, speedo, fuel level, coolant temp, fuel economy (vacuum), oil temp, oil pressure, voltmeter and electric fan speed - all Volvo oem units by VDO. They're all electric except for the speedo (cable drive) and the vacuum gauge (mechanical).

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

hey, Mustang5L5, did you use the tube that came with the gauge for that, it seems running a copper line would be a pain. i can see a copper line being stronger but i can't see why the gauge companies would supply you with the ones they do if they are not gonna hold up

jerry beach, actually its funny you mention to run the line inside of another tube, cause i was gonna do that,

 

[Mustang5L5]

hey, Mustang5L5, did you use the tube that came with the gauge for that, it seems running a copper line would be a pain. i can see a copper line being stronger but i can't see why the gauge companies would supply you with the ones they do if they are not gonna hold up

jerry beach, actually its funny you mention to run the line inside of another tube, cause i was gonna do that,

I did use the nylon tube for about 2 years before swapping over to a copper line. The copper line is a pain to run, but nothing terribly difficult.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

kinda on topic, but these are the three gauges i want, they come in this kit, do you think i could buy this and pop the gauges out of the bracket and put them in my own?

 

[HISSIN50]

if you are gonna put them in a housing (pillar pod, cage, etc) then sure, you have to pop them out. just make sure they are the same diameter as the openings on the instrument you are using to house them.

you can undo a U bracket on most gauges and get them off the housing - just info.

looks like you decided on mechanical gauges. cool.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

ya i'm leaning to the mechanical side.... i'm gonna try my hand a making my own cage that fits in the center vent, cause i got some sheet metal sitting in the garage any way, so if i can make it look half decent i will, and if not, well i guess i'll just have to buy one

 

[joelliott]

I went with elect. gauges about 4 months ago when I started workin on my 85gt. Now the h2o temp is about worthless. I turn the headlights on the gauge rises 5-12* immediately. Honk the horn, another 5-6*. Even sometimes the radio effects it some. I have seen this gauge go up to 250 somethin degrees. Id freak out pull off the road and check, everythings good. Now on the HW It reguarly reads 235*. Even in 60* weather with light driving. The gauge is nuts.

Soooooo, Im going to buy an mech temp gauge and replace the above elect one. Maybe have less interference from my crazy electrical system. Any tips at a good gauge? What about those liquid filled ones? thanks
Joe E.

 

[Michael Yount]

Joe E - that sounds more like a fundamental electrical problem than a gauge/sender problem. I'd check it out before other more serious stuff starts happening.

 

[joelliott]

Where do you start with an electrical gremlin like this? This car is also my DD so I cant rip it apart for a month to look for the prob. Any suggestions? Thanks
Joe E.