Metal Rattling Sound

blbrchnk · Jun 25, 2008

Well I printed out my copy of the TSB and they could all of the sudden magically look it up and ordered my separator plate. Too bad now it will be two weeks before they can get me in.

Sparty92 · Jun 26, 2008

klaw said:
Could it be the problem below:

TSB
08-2-10 4.6L MANUAL TRANSMISSION - SEPARATOR PLATE BUZZ - BUILT BEFORE 12/13/2007

Publication Date: January 22, 2008

FORD: 2005-2008 Mustang

ISSUE:
Some 2005-2008 Mustang vehicles built before 12/13/2007 and equipped with a 4.6L engine and manual transmission, may exhibit an oil-canning or exhaust rattle/buzz around 2000 - 2500 RPM during the first few minutes of driving after a cold start. The sound goes away after the car warms up.

ACTION:
The concern may be caused by the separator plate, between the rear face of the block and the transmission housing, vibrating and/or contacting the flywheel. Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Remove transmission per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-03B.
Pry separator plate from rear face of block alignment dowels, slide out from between block and flywheel, and replace with new service part.
Install transmission per WSM, Section 308-03B.
NOTE: INSTALL NEW SEPARATOR PLATE TO TRANSMISSION BOLTS IF MISSING OR DAMAGED. (FIGURE 1)

Figure 1 - Article 08-2-10

PART NUMBER PART NAME
8R3Z-7007-A Separator Plate
W500231-S439 Bolt

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
080210A 2005-2008 Mustang Built Before 12/13/2007: Replace Separator Plate, Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission (Do Not Use With 7003A, 5212B, 4602A) 2.8 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
6A373 07

Attached Thumbnails

I can officially say, that this IS the problem. I had my exhaust hanger support removed from another TSB to try to fix the problem. Two seconds of driving proved the dealer wrong.

They found THIS TSB, and the tech suggested something other than dropping the trans. He removed the bolts on that sheild (the bottom two, I think), pried it open a bit with a screwdriver/pry bar, and threw some soft foam tape along the edge, and bolted it back up. They've done this on some trucks because they too, have the problem.

The solution WORKED LIKE A CHARM! NO more buzz. No dropping your trans. Total time took him 13 minutes. And of course, no charge (for me, anyway).

Go in there with this TSB and tell them the foam tape idea (or do it yourself.

Good luck.

Power4 · Jun 26, 2008

Sparty92 said:
I can officially say, that this IS the problem. I had my exhaust hanger support removed from another TSB to try to fix the problem. Two seconds of driving proved the dealer wrong.

They found THIS TSB, and the tech suggested something other than dropping the trans. He removed the bolts on that sheild (the bottom two, I think), pried it open a bit with a screwdriver/pry bar, and threw some soft foam tape along the edge, and bolted it back up. They've done this on some trucks because they too, have the problem.

The solution WORKED LIKE A CHARM! NO more buzz. No dropping your trans. Total time took him 13 minutes. And of course, no charge (for me, anyway).

Go in there with this TSB and tell them the foam tape idea (or do it yourself.

Good luck.

My car had this problem too and I did the exact same thing with my car. You don't even need to bring it in to the dealer to do it. Just crawl under there and in a few minutes you can fix the problem.

hethj7 · Jun 29, 2008

I have a rattle too, usually when under slight load in that RPM range. Dealer thought they fixed it, but it is still there. When I go back, I'll have to mention this TSB.

blbrchnk · Jun 30, 2008

Power4 said:
My car had this problem too and I did the exact same thing with my car. You don't even need to bring it in to the dealer to do it. Just crawl under there and in a few minutes you can fix the problem.

But my question is: is there any longterm harm that could come from doing this ourselves and not having it replaced?

blbrchnk · Jul 5, 2008

Power4 said:
My car had this problem too and I did the exact same thing with my car. You don't even need to bring it in to the dealer to do it. Just crawl under there and in a few minutes you can fix the problem.

anybody have any pictures or a better description of what i should be looking for? I would like to take care of this myself and avoid any problems that the dealership could have in removing the tranny.

Power4 · Jul 5, 2008

I don't believe there's any long-term harm that could come from fixing it yourself. I modified the original picture that was posted to show exactly where to unscrew and put tape. Unscrew the two screws the red arrows are pointing to and then but thick foam tape between the metal plate and the bell housing cover where the blue lines are. That should fix it.

blbrchnk · Jul 5, 2008

Thanks a bunch!

blbrchnk · Jul 5, 2008

haha, problem now is, installed the o/r H pipe at the same time as I fixed this today and I can't hear if it has stopped rattling or not. I will only have to assume that it did.

french2812 · Jul 5, 2008

I am out of warranty on my 05. Are TSB's still repaired at no cost?

blbrchnk · Jul 5, 2008

french2812 said:
I am out of warranty on my 05. Are TSB's still repaired at no cost?

I would definitely just go the foam tape route with this one. There is nothing to it and from looking at it now, I cannot see how it could cause any future problems. It has to be the much better alternative to ripping out the transmission.

SlideWRX · Jul 6, 2008

I happened to use copper gasket stuff and it seems to be working well. just pried it apart a little and squirted a bit along the gap, let it set for a couple minutes and bolted it back up.

05PhillyStang · Nov 4, 2008

klaw said:
Could it be the problem below:

TSB
08-2-10 4.6L MANUAL TRANSMISSION - SEPARATOR PLATE BUZZ - BUILT BEFORE 12/13/2007

Publication Date: January 22, 2008

FORD: 2005-2008 Mustang

ISSUE:
Some 2005-2008 Mustang vehicles built before 12/13/2007 and equipped with a 4.6L engine and manual transmission, may exhibit an oil-canning or exhaust rattle/buzz around 2000 - 2500 RPM during the first few minutes of driving after a cold start. The sound goes away after the car warms up.

ACTION:
The concern may be caused by the separator plate, between the rear face of the block and the transmission housing, vibrating and/or contacting the flywheel. Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Remove transmission per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-03B.
Pry separator plate from rear face of block alignment dowels, slide out from between block and flywheel, and replace with new service part.
Install transmission per WSM, Section 308-03B.
NOTE: INSTALL NEW SEPARATOR PLATE TO TRANSMISSION BOLTS IF MISSING OR DAMAGED. (FIGURE 1)

Figure 1 - Article 08-2-10

PART NUMBER PART NAME
8R3Z-7007-A Separator Plate
W500231-S439 Bolt

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
080210A 2005-2008 Mustang Built Before 12/13/2007: Replace Separator Plate, Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission (Do Not Use With 7003A, 5212B, 4602A) 2.8 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
6A373 07

Attached Thumbnails

I have this problem but my car is out of warranty. Will I still be able to get it fixed? Or do I have to pay? If I have t pay, is this expensive?

Also, if I don't fix it, is there a possibility of problems in the future?

bradleyem · Nov 4, 2008

THANK YOU for bringing up this thread!!!!

I have the same sound on my '05 GT, and I was thinking it was exhaust / catalytic converter heat shield related. I'm gonna' get some foam tape and fix this ASAP....Its been driving me nuts.

kevanp · Nov 6, 2008

bradleyem said:
THANK YOU for bringing up this thread!!!!

I have the same sound on my '05 GT, and I was thinking it was exhaust / catalytic converter heat shield related. I'm gonna' get some foam tape and fix this ASAP....Its been driving me nuts.

+1

kevanp · Nov 13, 2008

Did this job today.

30mins start to finish
used a bit of permatex.
Fixed my mystery rattle!!!

Thanks

dro · Nov 13, 2008

If you are still hearing the noise and you have an aftermarket axle back you might want to check where the hanger meets up near the trunk bottom. I had to take a ballpeen hammer and make some clearance so that i didnt have a rattle. Just food for thought.

Snowcrash · May 19, 2009

Does this only happen above 2k RPMs? I have a tappign sound coming from that general area when my car is cold, but it also happens at idle.

jpplaw · May 19, 2009

Anyone have this problem with an auto? I have a jingling noise that seems to be coming from that area and now I'm wondering if this could be it.

walter · May 19, 2009

Snowcrash said:
Does this only happen above 2k RPMs? I have a tappign sound coming from that general area when my car is cold, but it also happens at idle.

Mine rattles and taps at idle too when it's cold. Apparently its normal, not much oil going around the valvetrain after sitting a while so it'll be a little noisier should go away once the car warms up. Also do not mistake injector pulses with a problem which can happen. My concern is that sometimes I hear what people describe past 4K rpm which makes me paranoid about pinging but between my noisy Hurst shifter and the fact the car is a Mustang I can't figure it out what the heck it is.

Metal Rattling Sound

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