mid-length header question

I just got a set and I havent installed them yet, But heres the install guild for them
http://www.bassani.com/part/4602VC

"10. It will be necessary to lift engine up enough to slide header tubes in and have access to install supplied header
bolts. After loosening motor mount bolts, lifting engine (using a wooden block under oil pan) and removing motor
mounts, one side at a time only, will ease installation. Removal of motor mounts is not mandatory."

it looks like you dont have to. Just lift the engine up.
 
anyone else out there installed the bassani mid lengths? just curious how the install went.... pros/cons? removing the k-member isnt whats holding me back, i aint afraid of a little work, just didnt want to do the job again incase i had to pull the tranny later.
 
the headers comes with adapters that you can use with a 5 piece bassani x pipe, but what I did was reinstalled my stock h-pipe and removed my bbk H-pipe. I took it down to a muffler shop and had them cut and weld on the adapters to the bbk O/R h-pipe. I havent installed the headers yet, but i will soon. I will take tons of pics!:D
 
why did you have to pull ur motor? upgrades?


LOTS of them. the engine is actually fine. (just tripped 30K) i actually dropped off the entire old engine at the shop today and i will be taking all the parts for my new forged shortblock up there over the next couple of days. i still have a few loose ends taht need to be tied up but it should all be together in the next 2-3 months.

the highlights of the new setup are

ported heads
MPH blower cams
forged bottom end
bassani headers
and LOTS more boost

i'll post up all the mods when the time comes. i have a LOT of stuff i'm sure i have forgotten about. i do know i have about 10K in parts and labor that has been paid out over the last year that is FINALLY about to go into action.
 
I just installed mine and didn't have to drop the K-member. I did unbolt the right motor mount and lift the motor slightly to get them in. The individual tube design makes the install a lot easier. They make good power too.
 
dropping K member - while time consuming, actual level of mechanical involvements are pretty low. Its basically just whole bunch of bolts and nuts.
If your gonna install any headers without dropping K(and thats big IF, as I see how you can do it without dropping k member) seem time saving, its actually gonna take longer to do, because you'll be spending about 1.5hr scratching head try to get sockets to fit on infamous 3rd starter bolts, and lifting engine up and down to gain enough room to work your wrench, and even if you do, you can only turn the wrench like 1/64" at the time. So it may take you 20min just to tighten 1 bolts.

I dropped K member completly out of the way, and yet, i still had tough time turning some bolts, because bolts would be behind some primary tube, whcih is between head and frame, I just don't see how you can do the install without dropping K member...But i guess having individual tube that moves makes it easier?
 
dropping K member - while time consuming, actual level of mechanical involvements are pretty low. Its basically just whole bunch of bolts and nuts.
If your gonna install any headers without dropping K(and thats big IF, as I see how you can do it without dropping k member) seem time saving, its actually gonna take longer to do, because you'll be spending about 1.5hr scratching head try to get sockets to fit on infamous 3rd starter bolts, and lifting engine up and down to gain enough room to work your wrench, and even if you do, you can only turn the wrench like 1/64" at the time. So it may take you 20min just to tighten 1 bolts.

I dropped K member completly out of the way, and yet, i still had tough time turning some bolts, because bolts would be behind some primary tube, whcih is between head and frame, I just don't see how you can do the install without dropping K member...But i guess having individual tube that moves makes it easier?

As for that statement there I'd have to say that'd be for the long tube headers. I have the bassani midlenghts, 5 peice SS o/r X pipe and cat back. The header tubes are individual and if you follow the instructions they go smoothly. You do need to jack the motor up on each side to get the clearance but do not have to drop the k-member. There's plenty of clearance with the motor jacked up one side at a time. I had a harder time getting the c-clips for the stage 8 locking header bolts on cause once their on, they are on. Install the headers was a lot easier then all the long tube stories I've read about. I was expecting worse and it was easier. I think I had a harder time with getting the old manifold studs off then anything.

The 3rd bolt way up top on the starter I just left out cause there's no room. I've been running with just the other 2 bolts and not a problem. You do need the 5 peice SS x pipe if you want to run the pipe and not have to cut or modify one you have. The 5 peice only comes in SS. Ninomotorsports is where I bought mine from and they actually called and told me that i needed the 5 peice cause the 3 piece does not work with mids. The 3 piece only works with stock/shorty headers.

how do all those tubes stay in the collector once its assembled?

You'll read that you just loosely hang each tube up into place and then slip the collector over the tubes. Once the collector is on you can tighten everything up. There is a little bolt that goes though the collector flange and though a little flange on a primary tube that locks it in place to keep it from sliding off. I've had mine on for about 10 miles and not a leak or anything. The only problem I had during the entire install was trying to get the last 2 top locking header bolt c-clips on and just left them off.

All in all, go with the bassani and you won't be disappointed. If I ever get another vehicle I'm going with bassani if they make the headers for it. I'm really impressed with their quality and ease or install.