This is going to be my first time installing a midpipe, i got a Mac O/R specifically because it comes in 4 pieces so I thought it would be the easiest to install. How do I go about getting to the bolts to unbolt it from the headers? Those seem pretty much out of reach, do I need any special tools or anything? Anyone got any tips for a first-timer? Ill keep searching, thanks a lot!
Mid Pipe Tools
- Thread starter DRock9
- Start date
The H pipe to header bolts use a 5/8" deep socket on a universal joint. Spray them down good with PB Blaster or WD40 and let them soak, then spray them some more. Get some high temp anti seize to coat all of the bolts when you assemble the H pipe.
The H section of the MAC pipe uses a U bolt clamp to secure the joint that connects the 2 halves. Plan on having that joint welded, because it will leak and corrode if you don't. Put it all together and drive to the muffler shop to have it welded. Have them tack the pipe in several places around the joint and then remove the H pipe so that they can weld it all the way around.
Fail to do this and the pipe will rust out there. I had to do some very fancy fabrication of two sleeves to cover the rusted out part of mine because I didn't get it welded when I put it on the first time.
The H section of the MAC pipe uses a U bolt clamp to secure the joint that connects the 2 halves. Plan on having that joint welded, because it will leak and corrode if you don't. Put it all together and drive to the muffler shop to have it welded. Have them tack the pipe in several places around the joint and then remove the H pipe so that they can weld it all the way around.
Fail to do this and the pipe will rust out there. I had to do some very fancy fabrication of two sleeves to cover the rusted out part of mine because I didn't get it welded when I put it on the first time.
So I just got back from trying to install this, looks like ill have to get the header bolts cut off. There is no way they are coming off after 17 years of rust. I used a 5/8" and a 15mm socket and both of them wouldn't grip at all so I gave up and figured since im going to have to pay someone to weld this anyways i might aswell pay them to install it. It sucks because I wanted to do it myself so I dont have to spend any other money, I know it won't be accurate but can someone tell me how much it would cost to have them weld this and install it?
I think its ridiculous that I have to modify a product out of the box to make it work properly, I am thinking of returning it and getting the less expensive Mac O/R because thats pretty much what I am making this by welding it solid.
EDIT: A friend said about $150 for the install and fitting, welding, then reinstalling accounting for the 4 rusty bolts...if thats so this may not be the hobby for me because thats ridiculous.
I think its ridiculous that I have to modify a product out of the box to make it work properly, I am thinking of returning it and getting the less expensive Mac O/R because thats pretty much what I am making this by welding it solid.
EDIT: A friend said about $150 for the install and fitting, welding, then reinstalling accounting for the 4 rusty bolts...if thats so this may not be the hobby for me because thats ridiculous.
sunil6784
Member
SOak those bolts in PB blaster overnight, then again in the morning. Also a little heat works wonders. You can pick up a cheap torch for like 15 bucks.
Just stick with the 3-piece and get it welded. It's easier to install a 3-piece, cinch everything down into position with clamps, then unbolt it from the flanges and cart the assembly down to a shop (or just drive the thing there and have 'em weld it right on the car, if you know they won't raise a stink about it not having cats on it). Once you've got the downpipes in a proper alignment and zap 'em permanently into place, installation/removal becomes soooooo much easier.
Oppositely, if you get an X- or H-pipe of the one-piece variety, you're gambling on whether or not the guys who welded the thing up at the factory have got the right measurements to fit the midpipe on ther without you needing to bend and pry and hammer and cuss for hours at a time to make that sucker fit.
Having a 3-piece welded adds an extra step to the process, but you'll be thanking yourself for it in the long run, trust me. I still need to get my Jeg's X welded (or at least slap some JB Weld or something on there) to take care of the leaks at the points where I clamped the downpipes on, as those exhaust leaks right under the floorboards are kinda noisy and stinky.
Oppositely, if you get an X- or H-pipe of the one-piece variety, you're gambling on whether or not the guys who welded the thing up at the factory have got the right measurements to fit the midpipe on ther without you needing to bend and pry and hammer and cuss for hours at a time to make that sucker fit.
Having a 3-piece welded adds an extra step to the process, but you'll be thanking yourself for it in the long run, trust me. I still need to get my Jeg's X welded (or at least slap some JB Weld or something on there) to take care of the leaks at the points where I clamped the downpipes on, as those exhaust leaks right under the floorboards are kinda noisy and stinky.
If you use regular JB Weld, it should seal it up pretty well and hold up long-term. Don't use JB Kwik on exhaust stuff, though; it's not rated for temps as high as regular JB Weld, and it smells like toasted roadkill when it gets hot. The Industro-Weld stuff by JB might also be a good choice, too.
Ideally, though, an honest-to-goodness MIG weld would be the preferred method. Shop around a little more and you'll find better pricing, I'm sure. Are you pricing the welding labor to service the X-pipe while it's ON or OFF of the car? If you can unbolt it (with the clamps in place) and take it down to 'em, they shouldn't charge you more than maybe $50, if even that much.
Ideally, though, an honest-to-goodness MIG weld would be the preferred method. Shop around a little more and you'll find better pricing, I'm sure. Are you pricing the welding labor to service the X-pipe while it's ON or OFF of the car? If you can unbolt it (with the clamps in place) and take it down to 'em, they shouldn't charge you more than maybe $50, if even that much.
The main problem I am having is that when using a 5/8" socket it's not grabbing the bolt good enough so it's slipping. The $100 was installing it, minus the welding because my friend forgot to mention that.
The four bolts I can't get off are the ones that connect the midpipe to the headers, if I can just get those off ill be all set.
The four bolts I can't get off are the ones that connect the midpipe to the headers, if I can just get those off ill be all set.
IIRC, a 16mm socket is pretty close to a 5/8" socket. If it's just a tad bit smaller than a 5/8" but still fits on, you might be able to get a better grip on 'em with that, if things are getting a little bit rounded off.
Also, you might also want to consider using impact sockets instead of standard 3/8" sockets. I've found that the thinner-walled sockets tend to "give" just a tiny bit, which allows the bolt/nut to slip and get rounded off sometimes; an impact socket is way thicker and super-rigid, plus they usually are just a hex fitting instead of a 12-point socket so they get a much more solid grip on things (more contact area on the nut). Might wanna invest in a set of those from Harbor Freight of Cummins Tools, along with a beefy 1/2" rachet.
Keep soaking those bolts with PB Blaster and maybe give 'em some heat with a torch, or soak 'em and run the car for awhile to heat it up and then (with insulated gloves on) crawl under and start wrenching.
Also, you might also want to consider using impact sockets instead of standard 3/8" sockets. I've found that the thinner-walled sockets tend to "give" just a tiny bit, which allows the bolt/nut to slip and get rounded off sometimes; an impact socket is way thicker and super-rigid, plus they usually are just a hex fitting instead of a 12-point socket so they get a much more solid grip on things (more contact area on the nut). Might wanna invest in a set of those from Harbor Freight of Cummins Tools, along with a beefy 1/2" rachet.
Keep soaking those bolts with PB Blaster and maybe give 'em some heat with a torch, or soak 'em and run the car for awhile to heat it up and then (with insulated gloves on) crawl under and start wrenching.
Mine was $50 to tack weld everything and then remove the H pipe and weld all the way around the joint. Because of the leaks, I had to make a two piece sleeve to cover them. The $50 price included welding the sleeve in place, which is more work than just welding the joint.
Yea i tried a 16mm too, i forgot to add that but i wasn't sure if it was a 15 or 16. They both kept slipping, my friend has a gator grip socket that he says is awesome, I think ill try to get that off of him, if I can install this myself i can just bring the whole thing to some cheap machine shop to get it welded then truck it back home. There is just no way in hell I am going to pay almost the price of this part to get it installed, it seems just a tad ridiculous.
I figured if i can't get a mid pipe installed because of the state my car is in, (rust, etc.) then maybe I shouldn't try to go any farther with modifying it. Its my first time trying to do something like this, i'm learning as I go.
EDIT: Thanks for all the help though, i appreciate it. Ill tell my dad to bring a torch home tonight and ill pick up some PB Blaster and just go at it.
I figured if i can't get a mid pipe installed because of the state my car is in, (rust, etc.) then maybe I shouldn't try to go any farther with modifying it. Its my first time trying to do something like this, i'm learning as I go.
EDIT: Thanks for all the help though, i appreciate it. Ill tell my dad to bring a torch home tonight and ill pick up some PB Blaster and just go at it.
Similar threads
