Progress Thread mkk50's Progress Thread

mkk50

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Apr 5, 2005
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Wanted to finally post some details out into one of these.. both chronicling the journey of how things go to where they are today and hopefully into the future!

Bought a 91 Fox back in 2005/2006 - had roughly 100k miles on it then. It was lowered with Eibach progressive rate springs (it was super low), had a 4" cowl hood that was unpainted, cold air intake, full bassani exhaust. I dont seem to have any original pictures of it anymore from back then when it had the OG pony wheels, but I do have this picture from a few months later with some crappy cobra R replicas and ford racing 'C' springs to help raise the car back up:

IMG_06511.webp


Over the next year or two I continued to undue some of the silly mods and 'clean' up the car overall - all while mostly daily driving it.
I removed the cold air intake and switched back to a stock airbox setup, painted the intake and added steeda 'CC' plates. I also got a stock hood from a junkyard and sold off the 4" cowl:
1009091502a.webp



I cleaned up the interior, fixing some small broken parts and cleaning/painting everything - along with installing a florida 5.0 gauge cluster. This was after my original speedometer broke, then the replacement broke and the speedo cable broke :bang: Because of all that I no longer have a accurate total on the number of miles on the car, but it was probably around 130k now:

1009091501.webp


Shortly after all that the original T5 started to have issues with holding in gear - it would pop out of 1st and 2nd gear. I managed to get a reasonable deal on a T5z and swapped that in - learning the hard way about not using the bolts to seat the transmission :doh:. After pulling it back out and replacing the pilot bearing again everything was smooth.

From here I mainly drove the car and started to slowly build up parts for a 5 lug swap. During that winter I swapped to 03-04 cobra brakes up front and back, cobra booster and master cylinder etc, and 99 cobra wheels, which I was really happy with:

1009091442.webp


From there I started work on the final step (or so I stupidly thought back then) which was paint. The car had its fog lights removed for some stupid reason so I had to replace all of those parts, along with the front bumper which had falled apart from a lack of support. But after all that and getting it painted - it finally looked like I had wanted:

2012-05-24_13-06-04_544.webp


At this point I figured I could continue to drive and enjoy the car.. but it had other plans for me... I had probably close to 180k on the car at this point (best guess anymore), and the NJ winters were starting to take a toll on the frame rails. After realizing how bad they were, I tore the car down to nothing and was pretty sure it was game over at this point:

21-06-12 15-23-23 0525.webp

21-06-12 15-23-32 0526.webp


Parts of the subframe underneath and the torque boxes were not in much better shape as well. It sat this way for a 3-4 years.. I couldnt weld/patch those kinds of areas myself and was struggling to find a local shop that I felt I could trust that would repair it in a way that would hold up for years to come. I got really close to selling the car and being done with it, especially after finding this when tearing down the engine as well:
24-02-05 12-33-32 AEFD.webp


But eventually I did find a shop to help with the frame... and that part ill type up in the next post along with how the car sits now...:coff:
 
Alright now for the rest up until current day.... I stripped the car down to the absolute minimum - everything got removed unless it was needed to steer/roll. After a lot of quotes and discussions I finally found a local shop that could do the work - repairing the framerails. Since the car was basically fully stripped.. it made sense to do some other stuff underneath at the same time.

The torque boxes were pretty bad, so lets replace those and install subframe connectors:
24-02-02 12-44-38 1050.webp


Front frame rails? who needs those:
2024-01-03.webp


The rust was pretty bad, but we also found out the car had been bent from side/side - the passenger and drivers sides were about 1 inch lower than they should have been - and the center of the car (think trans tunnel) was higher than it should be - so that had the get straightened back out. Since the car was basically fully stripped - i was able to have the bottom side sand blasted and painted - removing any last surface rust and rot and sealing it away.

While that was going on, I figured I might as well redo the factory harness - removing the salt-pepper shaker connectors and lengthening the needed wires so I could hide the harness as best as possible, trying to clean it up as best as possible:
harness hell.webp


I wish I took more pictures of that process.. it took forever but was 100% worth it in the end.

Once I got it back from the shop - it was full steam ahead to get the engine back in the car. I had already re-loomed the factory harness - so that went right back in:
24-03-05 22-14-17 1086.webp


Now it was time for the engine, cleaned everything as best I could, put new rings/bearings and new custom cam:
shortblock.webp


And now the heads (TFS 11r 190cc):
longblock.webp


And bam installed:
engine installed.webp


Had to re-wire the gauge cluster as I originally used some crappy computer connector which kept falling apart:
gauge mess.webp


and now:
gauge cleaned.webp


And all working:
gauge installed.webp


And finally driving!
its back.webp



However it seems the car isnt done with me yet.. I changed the oil last week and took apart the filter.. and it wasnt good:
jk.webp



I sent a sample off for oil analysis.. and it seems like there is accelerated metals - bearing metals :bang: .. Sooooooooo back to the drawing board a bit...

Seems like the best course of action now is the install that holley system I have :rlaugh:...
holley time.webp


And I might as well replace that leaking tailshaft seal and the worn out throw out bearing, so trans is out also....
trans out.webp


For the engine.. my thinking is that I will try to drop the oil pan and visually inspect some bearings.. I remember when re-assembling that the rod bearings had a hole in them that the originals didnt have.. I didnt think anything of it, but that may have been a mistake.
 
Man all that wiring looks painful lol Great work and progress even if the engine didn’t last. So just the wrong main bearings caused all that?
 
Nice thread so far. So.ething is definetly eating itself in there. Great time to do a 351w based stroker.
 
Yea ive certainly tossed around tons of ideas on going to a 302 based stroker, a 351 stroker.. a coyote motor.

Im still trying to figure out if the motor really is eating itself or not yet - I started out with 10w 30 in it - ran it about 500 miles and noticed that at hot idle, the oil pressure was a bit low (~15lbs). Figured i would switch to a slightly heavier oil - so I went with 10 w 40 next time.. and the hot idle oil pressure was the exact same.. 500 miles later I figured oh well might as well try something heavier - 15w 50 .. and yet.. the oil pressure is still exactly the same at hot idle - 15 psi. Tested with 2 different senders/gauges (1 mechanical) so im pretty confident thats what it is.

Im going to try putting back in some 10w 30 and see, if its still 15 psi.. im almost wondering if its the oil pump?
 
Yea ive certainly tossed around tons of ideas on going to a 302 based stroker, a 351 stroker.. a coyote motor.

Im still trying to figure out if the motor really is eating itself or not yet - I started out with 10w 30 in it - ran it about 500 miles and noticed that at hot idle, the oil pressure was a bit low (~15lbs). Figured i would switch to a slightly heavier oil - so I went with 10 w 40 next time.. and the hot idle oil pressure was the exact same.. 500 miles later I figured oh well might as well try something heavier - 15w 50 .. and yet.. the oil pressure is still exactly the same at hot idle - 15 psi. Tested with 2 different senders/gauges (1 mechanical) so im pretty confident thats what it is.

Im going to try putting back in some 10w 30 and see, if its still 15 psi.. im almost wondering if its the oil pump?

This sounds like a perfect scenario for sending an oil sample in for analysis.

There are others. This is just the first that popped up for me in search:


Sample Report:


1754793555694.webp
 
Yea i had sent in a sample actually - I forgot to post a picture of the results - that plus the dropping pressure is what caused my concerns...
25-08-09 17-13-29 1375.webp


I decided to just drop the pan tonight - too more work to get it off than I hoped, but it pretty much does confirm my suspicion that something didnt go right with the rebuild:
25-08-10 22-57-12 1377.webp

25-08-10 22-57-15 1378.webp


I had cleaned the pan pretty much spotless when I re-assembled everything :cry:

I checked only 1 main cap and 1 rod so far - ran out of time, but they didnt appear to be the cause - but certainly got alot of crap run through:
25-08-10 22-57-08 1376.webp


Time to keep checking for the Red October.. i mean the bad bearing.
 
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I didnt have the block or anything machined or cut - it was just a stock rebuild in the same block - same crank/etc as before and everything was running fine.

I did check a few cylinder bores for taper etc, and did check a main or two as well with a bore gauge and everything was within spec. Same with clearances on a couple mains/rods with plastigauge - also all within spec. But I know I didnt check all of them - which I wish I had now :doh: .

On that previous main and rod cap, my fingernail doesnt catch on any of those marks - but I found atleast one main that appears to have spun and is trashed:
25-08-11 10-59-32 1380.webp


The crank 'looks' okay so far - but im going to pull the motor at this point so I can fully inspect everything
25-08-11 17-14-07 1381.webp
 
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I didnt have the block or anything machined or cut - it was just a stock rebuild in the same block - same crank/etc as before and everything was running fine.

I did check a few cylinder bores for taper etc, and did check a main or two as well with a bore gauge and everything was within spec. Same with clearances on a couple mains/rods with plastigauge - also all within spec. But I know I didnt check all of them - which I wish I had now :doh: .

On that previous main and rod cap, my fingernail doesnt catch on any of those marks - but I found atleast one main that appears to have spun and is trashed:
25-08-11 10-59-32 1380.webp


The crank 'looks' okay so far - but im going to pull the motor at this point so I can fully inspect everything
25-08-11 17-14-07 1381.webp
The car looks really good. Sorry about the engine, but I’m sure it will be OK in the end.

Bill
 
Got the crank back and cleaned on Friday, so I was able to get the shortblock back together again:
25-08-31 18-41-44 D8EE.webp


Was hoping to get it further along but I found one of my head studs was possible defective or I just broke it when removing the stud with the tiny allen key (its an ARP stud :nonono:) It came right out with an easyout so it wasnt frozen in the block or anything, but need to get a replacement one somehow....
Broken head stud.webp


Also got the holley terminator X kit installed, and figured I would detail out the approach I used as I think it makes for a cleaner (ish) setup in the end and doesnt involve hacking any wiring or re-using the factory engine harness. The holley kit I got comes with a complete engine harness (for all the sensors the holley setup needs), but doesnt directly interface with the existing connection points in a fox. I figured that most of the connections I would need must run through the 3 main connection points from the factory engine harness into the body harnesses, so I set out to detail that out:

These are the details I found:
8 Pin female round connector under the hood:
Pin 1 - Neutral Safety switch (i believe just a sense for the EEC)
Pin 2 - SIG RTN
Pin 3 - Water temp sender
Pin 4 - Tach (negative side from coil)
Pin 5 - Start signal to TFI
Pin 6 - O2 harness pin 6 (looped on manuals?)
Pin 7 - 12v switched on ignition (key on)
Pin 8 - Oil pressure sender
8 pin underhood.webp


6 Pin male round connector behind passenger kickpanel:
Pin 1 - Fuel Pump Relay 12v source
Pin 2 - Fuel Pump Relay ground
Pin 3-6 - I believe these are all Airbag sensor wires
6 pin kickpanel.webp


7 Pin female rectangular connector behind passenger kickpanel:
Pin 1 - Low oil level sensor
Pin 2 - VSS +
Pin 3 - VSS -
Pin 4 - Check Engine Light
Pin 5 - Oxygen Sensor 12v power
Pin 6 - A/C 12v from climate controls
Pin 7 - Fuel pump sense for EEC
7 pin kickpanel.webp


With that info, I could add some additional wires to the holley engine harness and source some additional ford wiring connectors to make it fully plug/play. I figured I needed these connectors:
Under Hood:
  • Coil Connector
  • A/C Clutch Connector
  • A/C Pressure Switch Connector
  • 8 Pin Round Connector - Female
  • TPS Sensor Connector

Passenger Kickpanel:
  • 7 Pin Square Connector - Female*
  • 6 Pin Round Connector - Male*
* Both of these are actually 8 pin connectors, just not all pins are populated in our cars​

The Coil, A/C Connectors and TPS can all be got new from LMR, but the others were more of a challenge.
I found the 8 pin square connector is the same thats used in an excursion power seat switch, but it was also in a ton of other vehicles - https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-switch-asy_f65z-14a701-aa.html
I was able to find a junked seat switch and snip the connector. The wire guages are a bit different, but I only used it for the 12v A/C signal from the climate controls.

The two Round connectors are actually two genders of the same style 8 pin round connector, it appears Ford used them in all sorts of other situations. I found that they were used in rear wiper motors on 95-96 explorers, and happened to find a trashed motor and grabbed both sides of the connector
It looks like you might be able to get the male side new, MOTORCRAFT WPT257/WELLS 1P1764. I didnt have much luck finding the female side new however unless you got a replacement wiper motor for said explorer, which would have the female side...

With those connectors all sourced, I added some extra wires to the holley harness for the factory guages, coil power, A/C pressure switch & compressor clutch and a adapter harness from the GM TPS connector holley uses to the ford one. After that i just yanked the old factory engine harness and computer out, ran the new holley harness and computer and plugged everything in. I had 2 wires I ran to my 12v battery fuse box as well, but everything just plugs in with no cutting or hacking of existing wires.

Now with no engine I havent fully tested everything yet :D but I will update this once its all back together and I can test it fully, but so far all the basic sensor tests I have done all look correct.
 
Got the crank back and cleaned on Friday, so I was able to get the shortblock back together again:
25-08-31 18-41-44 D8EE.webp


Was hoping to get it further along but I found one of my head studs was possible defective or I just broke it when removing the stud with the tiny allen key (its an ARP stud :nonono:) It came right out with an easyout so it wasnt frozen in the block or anything, but need to get a replacement one somehow....
Broken head stud.webp


Also got the holley terminator X kit installed, and figured I would detail out the approach I used as I think it makes for a cleaner (ish) setup in the end and doesnt involve hacking any wiring or re-using the factory engine harness. The holley kit I got comes with a complete engine harness (for all the sensors the holley setup needs), but doesnt directly interface with the existing connection points in a fox. I figured that most of the connections I would need must run through the 3 main connection points from the factory engine harness into the body harnesses, so I set out to detail that out:

These are the details I found:
8 Pin female round connector under the hood:
Pin 1 - Neutral Safety switch (i believe just a sense for the EEC)
Pin 2 - SIG RTN
Pin 3 - Water temp sender
Pin 4 - Tach (negative side from coil)
Pin 5 - Start signal to TFI
Pin 6 - O2 harness pin 6 (looped on manuals?)
Pin 7 - 12v switched on ignition (key on)
Pin 8 - Oil pressure sender
8 pin underhood.webp


6 Pin male round connector behind passenger kickpanel:
Pin 1 - Fuel Pump Relay 12v source
Pin 2 - Fuel Pump Relay ground
Pin 3-6 - I believe these are all Airbag sensor wires
6 pin kickpanel.webp


7 Pin female rectangular connector behind passenger kickpanel:
Pin 1 - Low oil level sensor
Pin 2 - VSS +
Pin 3 - VSS -
Pin 4 - Check Engine Light
Pin 5 - Oxygen Sensor 12v power
Pin 6 - A/C 12v from climate controls
Pin 7 - Fuel pump sense for EEC
7 pin kickpanel.webp


With that info, I could add some additional wires to the holley engine harness and source some additional ford wiring connectors to make it fully plug/play. I figured I needed these connectors:
Under Hood:
  • Coil Connector
  • A/C Clutch Connector
  • A/C Pressure Switch Connector
  • 8 Pin Round Connector - Female
  • TPS Sensor Connector

Passenger Kickpanel:
  • 7 Pin Square Connector - Female*
  • 6 Pin Round Connector - Male*
* Both of these are actually 8 pin connectors, just not all pins are populated in our cars​

The Coil, A/C Connectors and TPS can all be got new from LMR, but the others were more of a challenge.
I found the 8 pin square connector is the same thats used in an excursion power seat switch, but it was also in a ton of other vehicles - https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-switch-asy_f65z-14a701-aa.html
I was able to find a junked seat switch and snip the connector. The wire guages are a bit different, but I only used it for the 12v A/C signal from the climate controls.

The two Round connectors are actually two genders of the same style 8 pin round connector, it appears Ford used them in all sorts of other situations. I found that they were used in rear wiper motors on 95-96 explorers, and happened to find a trashed motor and grabbed both sides of the connector
It looks like you might be able to get the male side new, MOTORCRAFT WPT257/WELLS 1P1764. I didnt have much luck finding the female side new however unless you got a replacement wiper motor for said explorer, which would have the female side...

With those connectors all sourced, I added some extra wires to the holley harness for the factory guages, coil power, A/C pressure switch & compressor clutch and a adapter harness from the GM TPS connector holley uses to the ford one. After that i just yanked the old factory engine harness and computer out, ran the new holley harness and computer and plugged everything in. I had 2 wires I ran to my 12v battery fuse box as well, but everything just plugs in with no cutting or hacking of existing wires.

Now with no engine I havent fully tested everything yet :D but I will update this once its all back together and I can test it fully, but so far all the basic sensor tests I have done all look correct.
Man that sucks about your main bearing! The rod bearings can be with or without the holes in them...doesn't matter. The hole is there to support rods with squirt holes. Your fox looks great!
 
Got the motor back in the car, but found my brand new mishimoto radiator is twisted. Its not bad enough to really notice unless you place it on a flat surface, but its very obvious within the car and makes the fan not fit at all :confused:. Hopefully i can get that sorted soonish or figure out some temporary solution so i can test-fire the car.

25-09-14 13-37-08 6EF1.webp


Also, the moroso oil dipstick is super close the the headers, anyone have any suggestions on the best way to route that with shorty headers?

25-09-15 02-01-42 1417.webp
 
Put my original radiator back in just to test run the engine for a bit. She fired right up and idled nice, held good oil pressure the entire time (around 60-65 psi) with the 30w break in oil. I only ran it for 10-15 minutes as the old radiator leaks and once it starts building pressure it makes a bit mess, but everything sounds good so far! Now just to get mishimoto to warranty the twisted new one :fuss:

engine.webp


While I wait for that I figured it would look over some stock radio parts I collected, and I realized that the EQ radio must have a different harness than the standard premium sound (football amp) harness. I found a diagram so I think i can make an adapter harness, but havent been able to find a source for the female end of this plug - anyone worked with this before?
radio.webp

plug.webp


The connector part number is E8EB-14A459-DA, which i think indicates a late 80s escort as a potential original source?
 
Last edited:
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