MM Lower Control Arm Install this weekend

xplo89gt · Jun 23, 2004

I'm thinking about installing my MM Rear Adj LCA's this weekend. I need to pick up 2 more jack stands...

I was wondering if anyone had any difficulties in this install? and what were they? Also how long did it take?

I also plan to remove stock quad shocks, so I can fit 275s when I do my 5lug soon.

Grn92LX · Jun 23, 2004

Did mine myself in my driveway with the help of a good friend. Also put in torque box reinforcements while I was there. The install was a pita, had to sawzall one of bolts off. Never again will I do that myself, just took way too long for me. I hate working on the ground.

xplo89gt · Jun 23, 2004

Oh no, not what i wanted to hear. I also hate working under the car on the ground.

88POSLX · Jun 23, 2004

I'm doing mm control arms starting tonight. I had the rearend out of the car last year and had to replace a siezed lca bolt so I'm not expecting any delays of that nature this time. That will be the one thing that may happen, the bolts tend to sieze inside the bushing and NOTHING will get it out. I ended up getting another stock arm from a wrecker and just changed the whole thing out. If I were you I'd secure a couple extra bolts before you start... if you run into trouble late Saturday or something you may not get bolts until Monday kinda thing.

As long as the bolts don't give you grief it's a pretty easy job, just a minimal number of bolts to remove and reinstall. You could probably do it in 2 or 3 hours.

v8only · Jun 23, 2004

i've done this twice already and never have had an issue with stuck bolts, but then again, I live in california, and rust isn't in my vocabulary.

fyi, addition of these arms won't gaurantee no wheel hop. I have massive wheel hop under full throttle launches. there are more fixes to do if you want to gaurantee against that.

88POSLX · Jun 24, 2004

Well, worked on the car for about 2.5 hours tonight. My buddy worked on the lca's, I worked on pulling my power rack (flaming river install). Both lca's are out and I assembled the maximum motorsport ones, so everything is ready to go back together. Depending on how much a pain the new arms are to get in (the new bushings on the torque box end are thick) it shouldn't take much more than another hour.

millhouse · Jun 24, 2004

Well, when I replaced mine, all of my bolts were seized on. All were badly corroded, so be expecting it.

They really werent that tough to get out though. Perhaps a bit tricky, but not to hard. What I ended up doing was breaking the nuts and bolts loose with a breaker bar (I ended up snapping one bolt off all together). You want to get the nuts off first so that you can persway the bolts out of the sleeve. I then took a long, narrow punch and a handheld sledge and beat the snot out of the bolt shaft while someone else turned the bolt with either a impact wrench, or for the tough ones just the breaker. With ever tap of the bolt, he would turn it...and they all would slowly start creaping out of the crush sleeve.

I would also do a search for the bolt size (I cant remember off the top of my head), and would pick some up at a local hardware store. They may be a bit tough to find because they are quite long and metric. Keep the receipt so you can return any that you dont use.

IndyBlk5.0 · Jun 24, 2004

This is why I love having a car that came from florida, and never ran in much rain. No rust underneigth. This is an interesting thread

xplo89gt · Jun 24, 2004

Ok, thanks for the info. So far the main problem looks like siezed bolts. Did you guys jack your rear up high so there was plenty of room? I'm always hesistent about using too much force under a car held by jacks.

I really want to get this done, but at the same time I haven't driven my car in 3 weeks due to other work and if this takes forever and something causes it to be down for the weekend, it will be another week

Anyway that's besides the fact. So most people were able to take it off by a breaker bar... Would a torch help? And does an impact wrench work at all?
If anyone remembers the size of the bolts, that would really help.

Lastly, I talked to Maximum Motorsports several times and they told me before I purchased them and a few weeks later after I purchased them (2 dif people), said I would not need torque box reinforcements. They said there design will not cause torque box damage. Lots of people on Stangnet do reinforcements and always advise on doing it. I'm wondering if this information is just passed along because everyone does it or what?

88POSLX · Jun 24, 2004

I didn't bother with stands... just do the following, works good with lots of room to work.

I prefer to put the whole car up on stands, prevents an ugly angle from the front to back. Once it's on stands push the car around with your hands to test the stability.

millhouse · Jun 24, 2004

88POSLX said:
I didn't bother with stands... just do the following, works good with lots of room to work.

I prefer to put the whole car up on stands, prevents an ugly angle from the front to back. Once it's on stands push the car around with your hands to test the stability.

Man, I took you seriously at first.

I do the same though. Put all 4 on jack stands. Your going to need 6 of them though. Four for the car, and 2 for the axles.

88POSLX · Jun 25, 2004

What a night. Got the lca's all in, just need to torque everything up. But man, talk about problems installing the Flaming River rack. I've got Flowtech longtubes with one tube that goes around the steering joint. Well, the u-joints on the new FR shaft are way huge and the header tube would not fit. So, off to the performance shop at 7:30pm to buy new headers. They had BBK chrome shorties instock, so I got them. Man they fit nice compared to the flowtechs. Just kinda pisses me off that I just installed a new flowtech h-pipe about two weeks ago. I'll be picking up the bbk h-pipe tomorrow.

Anyone want some year old longtubes and a two week old h-pipe?

xplo89gt · Jun 25, 2004

Hahh yea i've seen that pic. It's pretty funny. I'll see if I can find some spare 4x4 to use.

Do I really need 6 jacks? I was planning on just jacking up the rear with 2 jacks, and 2 jacks for the axle. Also with jackstands do you guys put anything over them like a slab of wood to even the weight out on the stand?

And lastly can anyone answer some of the above questions? thanks.

88POSLX, nice job on the install. How long did it take you total for the lcas?

85GTlover · Jun 25, 2004

You do not need six jacks or six jack stands. You should never work under a loaded jack......you are crazy, they likely will not fail but i would not take that chance. Always put a block or stump or something for safety. You can raise the front to make it better but you could get awasy with supporting the frame in front of the back wheels with something safe then maybe 2 jacks one to jack up the control arms and one to play with the rearend if need be. If you can attain extra stands or jacks by all means use thembut they are not all required.

xplo89gt · Jun 25, 2004

Sorry for the misunderstanding. When i said jacks, i meant jackstands. Currently I have 2 jackstands and 1 floor jack, and 1 regular jack. I figure I'll pick up 2 more jackstands.

millhouse · Jun 25, 2004

I feel much safer having the vehicle completley off the ground. There's less chance if anything moving compaired to having the front tires on the ground.

You need the jackstands on the axles to support it when you take off the lca's. You need them on the rear sub-frame rails to unspring the rearend. You need them on the front to keep the sucker from moving, and to provide a bit more clearance. I've used cocking blocks before wedged under the front tires, but it still felt safer on all four.

You can pick up some jackstands at a harbour freight or tractor supply for cheap...approx $10-$15 for a pair of auto locking ones. Granted your not going to be able to support a suv with these, they should be all you need for your stang.

xplo89gt · Jun 25, 2004

Yea, I have 2 craftsman 3ton jacks that I believe are good quality. I think I'm going to stick with them. I'll buy at least 2 more today. I think they are $20 for 2. Also I gotta pick up a creeper, I don't have one.

Anyway any other tips on the install job? Breaker bar will most likely get the bolts off?

millhouse · Jun 25, 2004

xplo89gt said:
Yea, I have 2 craftsman 3ton jacks that I believe are good quality. I think I'm going to stick with them. I'll buy at least 2 more today. I think they are $20 for 2. Also I gotta pick up a creeper, I don't have one.

Anyway any other tips on the install job? Breaker bar will most likely get the bolts off?

Um...I had to go to lowes and buy a 4 foot piece of steel gas line tubing that would fit over the breaker bar. The bolts didnt move a whole lot per turn, but it sure mad my hands feel a lot better.

BlackFox5.0 · Jun 25, 2004

xplo89gt said:
Sorry for the misunderstanding. When i said jacks, i meant jackstands. Currently I have 2 jackstands and 1 floor jack, and 1 regular jack. I figure I'll pick up 2 more jackstands.

I used 2 jackstands and my jack to do mine. support the car with the jack stands on the frame rails, lossen the controlarm bolts, but leave them in, and put the jack under the control arm you are working on lift it till you can pull out the bolt, and SLOWLY (read: slowly) lower the jack and stay back while it comes down and releases the spring. then do the same when you put it back in, at least thats how I did mine.....

And good luck on the front LCA bolts.

xplo89gt · Jun 25, 2004

oh joy....

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