Mob's project thread

1991notchbackLX · Dec 9, 2009

You're making awesome progress! Good luck with the DP routing. I've seen some crazy routings on turbomustangs.com, maybe troll the "Builds" board on there for some ideas I don't remember reading what you were gonna do for fuel/MAF but I have a new sample tube to calibrate a C&L MAF to 42# injectors, I bought it for my turbo build but sold my coupe before I got a chance to install it. It's yours if you need it, just let me know. I also have an A-pillar pod I won't need in case you were gonna put boost or something else on the pillar to keep an eye on things. I remember you saying cash was tight so maybe I can help out a little. Just an idea. Either way keep us posted!

mob · Dec 9, 2009

Thanks man. Send me a pm for how much you want for the c&l. I heard better things about the pmas tube and LMAF but let me know how much you want. As far as fuel goes I am going to be using 42lbers, 255 in tank, and probably an inline pump. I am going with the Moates QH to tune. This is the part thats going to take the longest is buying that stuff because it starts to add up. This building process should be done real soon.

1991notchbackLX · Dec 9, 2009

I had the stuff listed on corral for months and no one wanted it. You can have it for free if it'd help you out. It's only the sample tube to recal an existing C&L if you have one. It was like 30 bucks or something. I thought you might have already had a C&L that you could just re-use with this tube to recal it for your 42# injectors.

mob · Dec 9, 2009

ah gotcha, no I dont have a C&L I appreciate it though. I'll probably just go the LMAF route when the time comes.

Holset uses a weird tappered vband or something for the downpipe flange so I am going to have to call around all the dealers in my area and see where I can get a downpipe flange for it. Thats going to be the only thing stalling me from finishing the exhaust side. I want to make sure the downpipe will clear everything before I put everything in its permanent place.

Makdaddymac · Dec 10, 2009

massive progress man.............

90lxcoupe · Dec 10, 2009

Nice progress, but with how cheap used BBK shorties are how come you kept the stockers?

Seems liek the hotside is pretty well thought out and turbo placement its good, but the stock headers kill it for me

mob · Dec 10, 2009

Well I am using the gt40p heads so I cant just use any headers. I was able to make the stock headers work on the p heads, by hammering in one of the primaries. Considering how easy it would be for me to just cut the old headers out and weld new ones in, (may take me a day or so) I decided to save the money for the p headers and upgrade at a later time, instead of buying cheap headers and having to crimp them too to make them work. Thanks for the support guys.

90lxcoupe · Dec 10, 2009

so even if you flip them you still have to clearance them? why is that?

mob · Dec 10, 2009

What do you mean? The gt40p heads arent side specific. Its the same exact thing as if the headers weren't flipped, its just the problem primary isn't on the driver side anymore, its on the passenger side.

90lxcoupe · Dec 10, 2009

well all headers are side specific, and i didnt know if flipping them to the opposite side of the motor would clear up the issues

mob · Dec 10, 2009

90lxcoupe said:
well all headers are side specific, and i didnt know if flipping them to the opposite side of the motor would clear up the issues

Right, but what I am saying is the heads arent, so if it doesn't clear on the driver side, when you flip them its not going to clear on the pasenger side, same exact thing just switched sides. If they would work facing the front of the car, they would work facing the back of the car.

50foxbody · Dec 10, 2009

dude im loving the build im keeping an eye on this one just a question wat happend to the cobra wheels?

mob · Dec 12, 2009

Me and a member one here Mark (mackdaddymac) traded wheels plus a little cash.

I ordered the flange for my downpipe, man was that thing a pain to track down.

Tanus · Dec 12, 2009

cool, my buddy has made like 4 different turbo set-ups on his bug, first one was super janky, but the last one looks real good, he said he'd help me do one real cheap, thinking about it, main thing holding me back is the computer tune. I'll keep checking in on this thread, mabey you'll inspire me to go for it.

1990Coupe · Dec 13, 2009

too much talking, not enough pics...

mob · Dec 15, 2009

Hey guys got a couple more parts today for my down pipe so I was able to mock it up. I added a little extension piece to bring the turbo out a bit. I also got the passenger side mocked up so I should be able to start welding it up tomorrow. I just ordered a bunch of 4" pipes to finish my downpipe. Next I will start with the cold side, may be a couple weeks before I can afford to buy those pipes.

Here is the bracket all welded up

Clearance is close here, do you guys think this will be a problem with the heat?

Heres a little project I am seeing if it will work out. I cut off the nipple on the stock valve cover and am welding up the hole. I am going to weld bungs on the valve covers and run lines to a vented catch can for the pcv system. Not the best weld but it works.

Tanus · Dec 16, 2009

what series holset is that?

as for the turbo/radiator clearence, I think the bigger issue would be it hitting, from the movement in the motor under load

for the pvc set-up, I run mine to the exahst, so it the exhaust scavaging helps pull. surprisingly it pulls strong.

mob · Dec 16, 2009

The turbo is an H2E which is basically an HX50 just an older version. The small compressor wheel is 67mm and the small turbine wheel is 72mm.

I am not worried about it hitting. I am running solid mounts so there should be minimal. I am also putting the turbo mount right at the turbo flange connected to the frame rail so it shouldn't move at all.

I think running the pcv to the exhaust would be too much work. lots of guys on turbomustangs just run a breather cap on the valve cover, I think crankcase pressure going to a vented catch can should work just fine. I just gotta find a way to make a baffle under the bungs or I think the catch can will fill up pretty quick.

Then again I could put a bung on the downpipe and direct both valve covers to that bung. How do you run the PCV to the exhaust? Can you run -an fittings and stainless steel hose to it or would the heat be too much? How do you prevent oil from dripping into the exhaust?

mob · Jan 1, 2010

Got a little more progress done. I took a long break over xmas went out of state, then had to work non stop for like a week. But, I finally am getting some time to work on it again. I got the whole hotside tacked up. I finished welding one of the banks today. I decided to just go ahead and weld it all myself, it looks REALLL bad but its sealed up and I will probably cover it with some header wrap. My welder is a crappy 100 dollar welder fro harbor freight and the wire speed is broken on it but thats no excuse I suck at welding. But anyways heres a couple more pics, I ran out of wire today so itll be a couple more days before I am completely done. Next will come finishing the down pipe, I got all my pipes I just have to decide where I am going to route it, I am gonna try to squeak it by the passenger side header but the 4" pipe is pretty big, its gonna have to be perfect.

Dont make fun of my welds!

5.0Droptop · Jan 1, 2010

I thinks its cool you are welding it and fabing it all yourself. I went to school for welding and I was a welder fabricator for many years. I can say from experience that those cheap welders will make anyone look bad.

Mob's project thread

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