Mod Question

Haaa, let me help you. When you lower your car, you should add Caster Camber Plates. they are sold sperately. They enable better adjustments when it comes to alignaments of any car especially a lowered one then the stock CC plates. Stangnet's very own Partshopper has some kick butt Pro3i ones. I love mine. They are designed after the MM ones and have the 4th bolt. You made need a bumpsteer kit and you might as well do control arms if the wallet allows! I did all mine last spring, it was a good days work but WOW what a diff.

If you don't drop too much (People seem to agree that 1.5" is the limit) you may not need caster camber plates. If you go lower than 1.5" it's pretty much the concensus that you WILL need CC plates.

I installed an Eibach Pro Kit recently (advertised 1.5" drop) and I didn't change my CC plates. I didn't get an alignment yet, it drives straight. I'm getting an alignment soon to make sure everything is good.

You can do just springs as long as you don't drop it too far.

53BigDog said:

Haaa, let me help you. When you lower your car, you should add Caster Camber Plates. they are sold sperately. They enable better adjustments when it comes to alignaments of any car especially a lowered one then the stock CC plates. Stangnet's very own Partshopper has some kick butt Pro3i ones. I love mine. They are designed after the MM ones and have the 4th bolt. You made need a bumpsteer kit and you might as well do control arms if the wallet allows! I did all mine last spring, it was a good days work but WOW what a diff.

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How much did the springs, CC, bumpsteer kit, and control arms cost you all together?

Keep in mind that if you get aftermarket springs, and NOT aftermarket shocks or CC plates...then the new springs will wear on those other parts more. Since the shocks will not be set up to be lowered, and are still stock. Just a heads up.

Big myth, you do NOT need CC plates regardless of how much you lower the car.

The 'mods' they are talking about is grinding the strut mounting slots longer for more range of adjustment. This can weaken the strut towers though and isn't really a great idea if you drive hard.

I dropped my car 2" in the front and with the stock struts maxed I had +1.5* camber (-.5* is optimal for street use).
The mechanic hooked me up with a free set of camber bolts that change the angle of the strut mounting at the wheel hub and this gave more than a whole degree to play with. My alignment is perfect now.

Don't bother buying Steedas camber bolts for $30 either, that is an absolutely rediculous price. They're only bolts for christs sake.

The only advantages of CC plates is wider adjustment of camber which is useless unless you garage your car between autocross events, and adjustable caster (stock, caster is not adjustable), which can be beneficial but isn't worth $250.

The only thing you will *need* is struts that are made for a lower ride height as your stock struts will be pre-compressed by however much you lower your car. I'm missing 2" of travel on my struts and it's rather violent over harsh bumps.

Origommi said:

OK, lets say I cant afford all that now, can I just do the springs?

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yea sure it can all be done in stages. Its just more labor.

Sick96Stang said:

How much did the springs, CC, bumpsteer kit, and control arms cost you all together?

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I use a stangnet special for:
Arms, CC plates, bumpsteer kit, springs, and bushings.

The Shocks and struts I got a package deal for all four so it was a tad cheaper too.

All together it was roughly $1,500 with all the shipping charges, taxes, etc

Let me know if you are interested, I'll pull the invoices and let you know the exact prices of everything.

Origommi said:

My crappy mechanic who I DONT trust said I wouldnt need anything but the springs

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Might as wll replace the spring isolators (rubber bushings) when you replace your springs