Modify disc hubs for Cobra Wheels

[FastLane68]

I've read a lot of posts dealing with using late model Cobra wheels (with the wrong offset) that I'd like to use on my 68 and those that seem to know what they are talking about don't recommend using spacers due the possibilities of shearing the bolts. As I like the look and don't want to risk safety, has anyone considered the following (crazy?) ideas to allow use of these wheels:

1) Are there rotor hubs with the built in spacing? I.e. a thicker mount area? If yes, who sells them?
2) Conversion kits that use existing suspension parts with Cobra rotors and hubs? If yes, who sells them?
3) Welding on a steel spacer to the hub/rotor? Or does the heat damage the rotor?

thanks, LM

 

[67coupestang]

1) not that I know of, and not sure it would work, unless you had a longer spindle?

2) Fat man fab is the closet kit, but I dont think it widens the track and eliveates the need for spacers.

3) ummm... that kind of sounds like a bad idea...

There are still some people that swear by spacers, not the simple aluminum discs with holes punched in them but the 1"+ spacers that have studs pressed in. Bolt the spacers on, then bolt the wheel to the spacers. I have 1.5" on the front of my car (which are about .25" too thick) havent put a lot of miles on them yet, but can't complain, no vibes or anything...

 

[Hack]

I have to agree that welding doesn't sound like a good idea. You would be putting a lot of trust in the strength and longevity of the weld. Is there a pin hole, crack, is it rusting over time, did you get good penetration?

I trust bolts more than a weld, even done perfectly by a pro. I don't think a spacer is such a bad thing, you might consider using blue Loc-tite if you are paranoid that the nuts might back off or loosen over time. You would want to purchase good quality spacers that are well made and concentric so that everything stays in balance.

 

[66 BLAKE 96]

The difference is in the terminology.

Spacer: Simple aluminum plate with holes drilled in it.

Adapter: Works as an extended hub. Bolts to rotor flange, has it's own studs, then wheel bolts to the adapter.

I haven't heard of one single problem using adapters to get latemodel wheels to fit.

 

[dodgestang]

Agreed that this is a terminology issue.

I ran 'spacers' on my mustang once....they gave me a false tight when I torqued my lugs and 50 miles later I had broken one stud and almost lost the rear wheel. Conversly, my brother with a versailles rear in his 67 has run spacers for over 10 years and never had a problem.

I know plenty of people using the bolt on adaptor and have never once heard of a problem.

 

[Edbert]

I'll third that, spacers (over 0.375 inch at least) BAD. Adapters = safe. There are track cars that can pull nearly a full G laterally with adapters, no issue.

 

[FastLane68]

Thanks for all the input. It looks like bolt on adapter plates will work. A couple more questions:

1) It appears most, if not all, are made out of aluminum. Is this a problem? Should I specify steel? If aluminum is OK, then what grade?

2) Are all Cobra wheels from 1999-2004 the same offset? If yes then what thickness adapter should I use for stock 1968 front disc and Lincoln 9 in rear w/disc? Or at least could someone tell me the bolt pattern dimension for the stock 1968 and the Cobra wheels from 1999-2004? Again your help is much appreciated.

 

[Edbert]

This should answer all of your questions WRT sizes...

http://www.dodgestang.com/mustang.htm

 

[BAD67FUN]

You may want to consider the appearance also.

I don't think the adaptor version has a safety problem. And I don't think that a SMALL spacer has a safety problem either.

But you may want to look at Edberts pic and visualize the wheel/tire on it. The caliper and rotor being set back so far may look a little funny to you.

No offense meant to you, Edbert.

 

[Edbert]

No offense meant to you, Edbert.

None taken, and you are right to some degree. You really need to consider the aestetics of modern Mustang wheels on a classic. The backset of the disc is the least displeasing of them all IMHO.

Here are the issues as I see them:
17 inch wheels require a low profile tire in order to fit, the old cars often just look weird with low profile rubber, we are all used to seeing 60/70 series tires is all.

The same offset issue that puts the rotors far into the background also causes the inner part of the wheel to be pushed out. My opinion is that that looks stranger than the recessed rotor.

The biggest problem with 17 inch wheels on a classic though is the way it makes any brake system you have look like cheese. Factory disc brakes look like they came off a ricer, and if you have drums you are gonna look like a real dork. In all honesty having them deeply recessed is somewhat of a blessing in that regard

The bottom line here is that if you can afford it you should get your 17 inch wheel with the correct offset for your car. I priced out a set of 17X8 vintage looking rims (vintage 45s and 454s) with new Z rated Goodyear tires and came out at well over $1,500. I picked up a couple of "take-offs" from a new GT (the guy was buying new OZ 18/19 inchers) for $400. Easy choice for me at this point.

 

[BAD67FUN]

Hey perfect time to show off the website that Eric made for me at his TrinityMustangs website!! He deserves all the props!!

http://www.trinitysmustangs.com/jason's_fastback.htm