I am considering installing an AOD in my 67 289. I Currently have the C4 so I know the swap will be a cinch, the only thing I cant find any literature on is how to modify the shifter to work with the AOD. I have a console and would like to keep the original shifter, I understand that the indicator might not line up properly and thats fine, but if anyone has tackled this I would really love to hear from you. Thanks
Modifying shifter for AOD?
- Thread starter robbz28
- Start date
the C4 and the AOD use the same detents, both number and location, so you will just need to get the adjustment right to line everything up. make sure that you start with a floor shift AOD from a mustang of Tbird so the shift lever will be in the right orientation.
JonK
Member
Yes, the shifter lever should point up like this:
If not you'll need to flip it which requires removing the pan and changing the orientation of the lever.
Using the stock shifter is fine, you'll just need to fab a lever to connect them out of all thread rod and some heim joints or similar, like a throttle lever rod. You'll also need a TV cable (Lokar) of course.
Oh and GO TIGERS!
Jon
If not you'll need to flip it which requires removing the pan and changing the orientation of the lever.
Using the stock shifter is fine, you'll just need to fab a lever to connect them out of all thread rod and some heim joints or similar, like a throttle lever rod. You'll also need a TV cable (Lokar) of course.
Oh and GO TIGERS!
Jon
The AOD conversion has fully matured. You can now get 157T or 164T flywheels, kickdown cable, shift lever and linkage rod, and transmission crossmember to make the AOD pretty much a bolt-in job.
View attachment 196380
View attachment 196380
Tim65GT
Active Member
As stated, you don't need to change the shifter. I had to bend and adapt the linkage/rod a little.
Eventually I built a new rod from 5/16" rod and heim joint ends. Sorry, I don't have any pics.
Here is a pic of a bracket I made to make the Lokar TV cable work:
Trans end:
Eventually I built a new rod from 5/16" rod and heim joint ends. Sorry, I don't have any pics.
Here is a pic of a bracket I made to make the Lokar TV cable work:
Trans end:
Considering it's a kickdown cable, I'd guess they mean their manifold is not the correct shape, or more likely, they are not aware a carbureted kickdown cable is available.
It's not a "kickdown" cable which is how the C4 is setup. On the AOD it's a pressure control which is why it burns up the trans if not setup right. Too little tension equals low pressure which equals slipping clutches. It does affect shift timing, but does more for pressure control. I don't understand why Edlebrock is still scared to admit there are answers out there to run the AOD with a carb. It's a simple matter of timing the transmission pressure rate (response) to the throttle rate (load demand) and there really is no magic involved. Yep, many have been burned up by being setup wrong but I'm willing to bet on what I've read they were off by a mile. The ideal setup is: 0-5 psi at the test port at idle and at WOT the trans linkage hits its endpoint at the same time the carb does. Theres just not much more to be done here and no reason to lose sleep over it. They left the factory with a simple snap of a link taking up the slack. Nothing more.
Wow, lots of good info. I appreciate it. So I don't have to file another notch in my shifter or anything like that? Is 3rd overdrive on an aod? Let me explain my confusion...My last toy was a camaro, it had a turbo 350 3speed auto. I upgraded to a 700r4 overdrive. This transmission had 1-3 + OD so a total of 4 gears that were selectable is the AOD a 1-2-D-OD or just 1-D-OD, make sense?
None of my technical manuals refer to a "kickdown" cable, but no biggie. It's widely accepted the same as positrac and lockup converters. There is no such critter in a Ford.
The valve body was designed to eliminate manual 2nd gear. You'll hear about doing the 1-2-1 shuffle. This was starting in first, revving it up, hitting 2nd, and once it shifted, put it back in first to hold second. I never tried it but that's the story. Your shifter will work with no problem. Just make sure to have the detents adjusted or it WILL burn up from not properly engaging the gears, but that applies to all transmissions.
Another tale often mistold: There is no lockup converter. 3rd and OD are driven directly by a center input shaft from the torque converter center section which is solid - direct drive. 1 and 2 are driven by the converter impeller using an outer input shaft as we are all used to - slip mode. The term "lockup" converter, or doing away with it, is to use a setup that eliminates the 2 separate trans input shafts and use a setup which uses the outer which makes all gears driven by the impeller (no direct drive, ie, lockup)
Everything mentioned above; lockup, positrac, kickdown, involves terms we all use. To be technically correct, not one of these terms properly applies to Ford! I'm just bored and thought I'd type for a moment.
The valve body was designed to eliminate manual 2nd gear. You'll hear about doing the 1-2-1 shuffle. This was starting in first, revving it up, hitting 2nd, and once it shifted, put it back in first to hold second. I never tried it but that's the story. Your shifter will work with no problem. Just make sure to have the detents adjusted or it WILL burn up from not properly engaging the gears, but that applies to all transmissions.
Another tale often mistold: There is no lockup converter. 3rd and OD are driven directly by a center input shaft from the torque converter center section which is solid - direct drive. 1 and 2 are driven by the converter impeller using an outer input shaft as we are all used to - slip mode. The term "lockup" converter, or doing away with it, is to use a setup that eliminates the 2 separate trans input shafts and use a setup which uses the outer which makes all gears driven by the impeller (no direct drive, ie, lockup)
Everything mentioned above; lockup, positrac, kickdown, involves terms we all use. To be technically correct, not one of these terms properly applies to Ford! I'm just bored and thought I'd type for a moment.
here is a good site that has a number of answers to adapting the AOD fo ruse with a carbed engine.
Main Tech Help Page - Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC
Main Tech Help Page - Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC
all AODs that go behind the small block ford are 164 tooth flexplates, there is NO 157 tooth bell housing in the AOD line.
One more question for you AOD gurus, drive shaft, i have gotten mixed information. Do I need to shorten the drive shaft, or just get a new yoke? what have your experiences been? Also what about the cross member...do you really need to buy an aftermarket one or can I just modify my factory one with a little welding?
JonK
Member
I picked up a T5 yoke from someone, they're supposed to be a little stronger than the stock AOD ones but if you get one with a trans I'd use it. I looked at my C4 yoke and have read of others cutting ~1"-1 1/2" off the end of the yoke so it doesn't bottom out.(it's not splined for the last 2 5/8" of the pipe towards the trans).
T5 yoke 5" long and 5" splined;
C4 6 1/2" long and 3 7/8" splined, when cut say 5" long and 3 7/8" splined.
When you install the yoke (either) you are supposed to slide it all the way in, then pull it out 3/4"-1" to allow for suspension travel. If you use the C4 yoke this means you will have ~2 7/8" of splines engaged when level, less at suspension travel/ droop. With the AOD/T5 yoke you will have 4" when level, this is why I preferred to use the T5 over the C4 and not wanting the headache of cutting it, chamfering the end, etc. Your choice.
I plan to measure the driveshaft last, once the trans is mounted and i can get a level measurement with the yoke pulled out 3/4"-1" and measure from center of Ujoint cup on yoke to center of Ujoint cup on differential. "Carefully measure the distance between the centers of the front and rear u-joints. Double check the 3/4" to 1" free play in the slip yoke and measure again. Measure twice" from Shaun at SorT website.
The original cross member will hit the trans pan if you try to use it so you'll need to modify it significantly, get an aftermarket on or have one fabbed up.
Jon
T5 yoke 5" long and 5" splined;
C4 6 1/2" long and 3 7/8" splined, when cut say 5" long and 3 7/8" splined.
When you install the yoke (either) you are supposed to slide it all the way in, then pull it out 3/4"-1" to allow for suspension travel. If you use the C4 yoke this means you will have ~2 7/8" of splines engaged when level, less at suspension travel/ droop. With the AOD/T5 yoke you will have 4" when level, this is why I preferred to use the T5 over the C4 and not wanting the headache of cutting it, chamfering the end, etc. Your choice.
I plan to measure the driveshaft last, once the trans is mounted and i can get a level measurement with the yoke pulled out 3/4"-1" and measure from center of Ujoint cup on yoke to center of Ujoint cup on differential. "Carefully measure the distance between the centers of the front and rear u-joints. Double check the 3/4" to 1" free play in the slip yoke and measure again. Measure twice" from Shaun at SorT website.
The original cross member will hit the trans pan if you try to use it so you'll need to modify it significantly, get an aftermarket on or have one fabbed up.
Jon
If the driveshaft is too long, or too short, a yoke won't fix it.
If you have fabricating skills, you can rework the crossmember. it'll require cutting and welding.
I do have fab skills, looks like all I need is some tubing, flat bar and some angle iron and I can have that whipped up. (we have an impressive scrap pile) I built one for my camaro, worked great, but I might take the easy way out on this one. I hope my buddy at the ford dealership comes through with my AOD now...im excited, ready for this.
67 AOD
I have an AOD behind my 289 with an Edelbrock 4 barrel on a Performer intake. I added a conversion arm for the Edelbrock carb that is supposed to keep the linkage geometry correct for the TV cable. This all hooked up easily and seems to work as advertised.
For the driveshaft, i only changed the front yoke to the AOD type. Did not have to shorten the shaft.
I used a linkage rod from CJ Pony parts I believe to mate the stock floor shift to the AOD. I don't have the shift bezel installed right now so can't comment on that. But looking at the stops on the shifter its self, everything seems close.
You also need the harness for the neutral safety and backup lights. I spliced the AOD harness to the 67 plug at the firewall.
The end result is a much more pleasant highway drive.
I have an AOD behind my 289 with an Edelbrock 4 barrel on a Performer intake. I added a conversion arm for the Edelbrock carb that is supposed to keep the linkage geometry correct for the TV cable. This all hooked up easily and seems to work as advertised.
For the driveshaft, i only changed the front yoke to the AOD type. Did not have to shorten the shaft.
I used a linkage rod from CJ Pony parts I believe to mate the stock floor shift to the AOD. I don't have the shift bezel installed right now so can't comment on that. But looking at the stops on the shifter its self, everything seems close.
You also need the harness for the neutral safety and backup lights. I spliced the AOD harness to the 67 plug at the firewall.
The end result is a much more pleasant highway drive.
All that sounds great, now if my hookup will get back with me on his transmission sounds like I will be set. I think I am going to look into that t5 yoke as mentioned, if it is splined all the way that definately sounds like the way to go. I appreciate all of the input guys.
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