Mods for Mustang "Newbie"

is this car a AOD or 5 speed car?

I got lucky and found a fellow stang owner who had a 8.8 with gears already in it.
I got it for 200.00 but it looked crapy I had to paint and clean for a week b4 I felt good putting it in.

I would say somewhere between 300-500 bucks with parts installed.
Just make sure you get someone who knows what there doing with the gears.

They can really screw one up if it goes together wrong.

your gonna get the same info you saw when you searched.

get gears- 3.55 or 3.73s with a 5speed. you will get out of the hole a whole lot faster. 3.73s my top speed is about 130.

fost9508 said:

Oh and this Mustang doesn't have a MAF, which I find odd since all the mechanic books I have show it for this year, anyway.

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Don't feel bad... it seems that Haynes and Chilton forgot all about us Speed Density folks. They've got a pretty little diagram for the CFI folks though, which is amazing because I've never seen that setup on a Mustang.

Newbie=

pisgahhiker was prob. about right w/ the gear pricing...gears are $200+$100 for the install kit I believe and then labor on top of that, so yeah.

88 Mustangs from California had mass air, others didn't, so yours isn't a CA car. 89 was the first year for Mass air on other stangs.

Since you did indeed note that it's a 5 speed car, I'd say 3.55's or 3.73's would probably be your best bet. It is about personal preference. Most guys who drive on the highway a lot, I believe, typically choose 3.55's. 3.73's are touted as the ideal street/strip gear and I've read that the MPG doesn't change that much from 3.55 to 3.73. There are also other choices in between those....I know 3.90 is one and I think there's a 3.6x, so you could research that too if you wanna go that route.

You might consider some mufflers to get that thing sounding non-stock if that's what you want. Different strokes for different folks, but Flowmaster, Spintech, Mac, and a couple others are popular on here.

Gears are definetly great but without some good tires out back your not going anywhere fast w/o traction. At least that was my experience w/ my 88. Just some bolts on's and 3.73. It easily keeps the car sideways all the way through 2nd gear w/ the BFG's I have on it right now. BTW it's my daily driver in the summer and I drive mostly highway and I have no complaints. Like stated above only california cars in 88 were mass air. All other 88's were speed density (no maf) From what I've heard Speed density cars are quicker stock for stock vs a mass air cars. I can vouch for that since I own both and it does feel quicker. However speed density cars are somewhat limited by what cams you can use and some other stuff like that.

3.73 gears, headers/hpipe or xpipe/mufflers, nitrous (75 shot should be good)

fost9508 said:

It is a 5spd manual.....thought I mentioned that. So it sounds like this is something to leave to the experts, which is what I thought. Can anybody give me a feeling of what the difference between 3.55's and 3.73's would be. Also, I can't remember what gears came stock with the 88.

Super Stanger, thanks for the help. So yeah, the higher the gear the higher your RPMS increase for a given speed...right? I originally thought about upgrading the exhaust but then read that gears may be the way to go. Not that I have given it much thought, but I was looking into a Bassani exhaust system, it is purely a bolt on system.

thanks again

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Think of it this way - 3.73/3.55 = 1.05. thats a 5% difference. Lets say w/ 3.55s you go down the highway at 80mph @ 2000rpm. If you had 3.73s your rpm @ 80mph would be 2100. Not a big difference.

They put 2.73s and 3.08s in the 8.8s.

3.73s are only higher than 3.55s numerically. 3.73s are technically a lower gear.

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

If you convert to Mass air, which is a good plan for a modified non-Cali car, 94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found for the MAF adapter flange.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/

When I first put 3:73's in my 92 I hated em as first gear was almost useless as I had to shift to second before I had even past the stop sign, I have 3:55's in my new 93 & they are a bit tight aswell but love em compared to my stock or 3:73's I had in mine before, if you don't plan on racing it @ the track I would highly recommend the 3:55's for everyday driving

fost9508 said:

jrichker,

Thanks for all the information about parts and pieces from other makes and models that would work on the mustang. My only quesiton is how can you figure out what pieces and parts will work with a certain year mustang?

Thanks

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you can do all that with your 88. they changed little over the euro years.
also, before you rip your dash apart, your CEL (check engine light) is not broken - SD cars dont have a functioning light.

good luck!

jrichker said:

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

If you convert to Mass air, which is a good plan for a modified non-Cali car, 94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found for the MAF adapter flange.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/

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That's the best "newbie" advice I've ever seen.....

fost9508 said:

jrichker,

Thanks for all the information about parts and pieces from other makes and models that would work on the mustang. My only quesiton is how can you figure out what pieces and parts will work with a certain year mustang?

Thanks

Click to expand...

The chassis parts are interchangeable for all Mustangs 79-93. That means the T-bird Turbo Coupe rear end will fit in all of them. Models made before 86 may need additional work on the front brakes to bring them up to par.

The 70 MM Mass Air works for 88 Cali and later cars and all other 89-93 models

The 3G alternator works for 87 and later (may work with 86, but not for sure).

The Lincoln MKVIII fan works in any car that has a high output alternator (100 amp or better)

The 95-97 Explorer intake manifold will work on 86-93 model Mustangs. Note that you will need to relocate the ACT sensor or have the manifold drilled and tapped for it.

im not sure, but i think one has to play with the quad shocks when using a TC rear end, too.

DEFINATELY get gears first, then exhaust, jsut my opinion

oh, and some cheap underdrive pulleys

HISSIN50 said:

im not sure, but i think one has to play with the quad shocks when using a TC rear end, too.

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Here's the how to do it for those who are interested...

Been there and done that! With success!


Auto trans Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving. Both ratios have 10.5 disk brakes with vented rotors as standard equipment.

It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.

You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.

You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.

You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.

You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.

Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 8 to get the braking performance up to par.

Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.

See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.

All in all I have been very pleased with the results.