Mods now w/ KB in future

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
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Cincinnati area
Ok, I don't want to turn this into a "lets argue about who's blower blows" thread. So here's my deal. Just got my car recently, and am looking to start doing some of the more affordable mods, but want to plan for adding a KB 1.7 later on down the road. I'm looking at doing the cat-back and midpipe, likely a Steeda cat-back and not sure about midpipes (want to research the best sound for the Steeda). Also want the shifter and gears upgrade, although I'll probably go 3.73's to keep it a little more daily driver friendly. I'll probably avoid the CAI and throttle body/plenum stuff since the KB's have the appropriate add-ons and I don't think I'll miss the few extra HP now versus waiting to do it right with the KB.

I don't plan to get hardcore into drag racing although I may do it for fun once in awhile. So basically, in the future (probaby 1-2 years away) I'm wanting to add the KB and the MM Road and Track package to get an all around fun car to drive.

So based on this, I'm trying to avoid making too many mods that will be nulled by my later "package" upgrades. I want to keep the car under the 400hp I've seen because I don't want to spend the money to rebuild with forged parts. Sooooooo....any recommendations on other mods besides the exhaust, gears, and shifter that will actually help with performance now, and not be affected by my future plans for mods. Thanks!
 
Ok knowing you want to go KB I suggest building the whole rearend when you do the gears. I'm talking good diff, good axles, maybe a c-clip elim too.
I'd also go ahead and start doing the chassis stuff and brakes.
For some more power, a programmer you are after all in MD's back yard. Also maybe headers. Might want to think about some blower cams and a set of ported heads.
Or just say heck with it throw a nitrous kit on there to enjoy now and jet it down when you get the KB.
 
Or just say heck with it throw a nitrous kit on there to enjoy now and jet it down when you get the KB.

This is the route I am going. I originally wasnt going to go blown but I am really sick of filling up bottles. So I am going to go w/o intercooler and use a small shot to cool the charge.
 
All the exhaust options are a good choice. I'd personally go with the LT's and matching mid-pipe along with a Cat Back of your choice. But depending on what your finances are like and the area you live in (smog testing), Long Tube headers may not be possible.

As for the induction end....I wouldn't bother for now, since a fully optined Kenne Bell with a 75mm T/B and "Big Tube" kit will cover everything from that end.

Honestly though....you're best bet right now is to start saving up for at the very least a set of forged pistons and rods. By the sounds of it, you're eventually going to want to make some serious power with this thing, so it's going to save you money in the long run not having to rip then engine down twice in order to get things done.
 
I'm hoping to not invest the money in the forged parts. I know it will cost a fortune for the parts...but even more for the installation. Not sure I could rebuild the engine with my knowledge and no experience. I was thinking of doing the KB with 6 boost...and the other mods like exhaust and intake with the KB....trying to keep it under 400 HP and hopefully not blow the stock block. And also focus on the suspension to carve corners.
 
jimfitzgerald said:
If you know you want a 1.7 KB, don't do any mods now. Put the money in savings and get the KB sooner. After that, add the other mods as needed and as you can afford them.

I agree, go to kb's website and read the faq's page and common questions, you'll find the headers don't do much at the 1.7 level
 
o3redfire said:
I agree, go to kb's website and read the faq's page and common questions, you'll find the headers don't do much at the 1.7 level
I'm not sure I agree with that statement. L/T's work decently with a stock and mild bolt on engine, but their gains are amplified exponentially when combined with an engine with the ability to breath better still......such as an engine running forced induction. Head over heels better than what the stock manifolds will do for you anyway.
 
Kb found little or no power gains from headers, from their website...lgndracer, I have an auto so my numbers are 5% or so less than std, 430 rwhp and 450 rwtq, safe tune, I think 17 degrees timing. I was expecting more with the blower cams and 4 extra lb's of boost, it was 394 before new shortblock, cams and pulley. The car does pull strong as heck... I think I will hit my 11 second 1/4 mile goal. The cams are mph "custom ground", which are comp cams, the lift and duration was scatched out so I don't know that, a little noticeable at idle.
 
o3redfire said:
Kb found little or no power gains from headers, from their website...lgndracer, I have an auto so my numbers are 5% or so less than std, 430 rwhp and 450 rwtq, safe tune, I think 17 degrees timing. I was expecting more with the blower cams and 4 extra lb's of boost, it was 394 before new shortblock, cams and pulley. The car does pull strong as heck... I think I will hit my 11 second 1/4 mile goal. The cams are mph "custom ground", which are comp cams, the lift and duration was scatched out so I don't know that, a little noticeable at idle.


That's a lot of work and $$$$$ for 35 RWHP. Maybe I'll jsut stay where I am at. Not really to intersested in going past the point of diminishing no return.
 
lgndracer said:
That's a lot of work and $$$$$ for 35 RWHP. Maybe I'll jsut stay where I am at. Not really to intersested in going past the point of diminishing no return.
I agree !!! I was going to put $4,200.00 for 35 rwhp !!! I guess dropping the compression ratio has something to do with it - that is why most people that have done the forged bottom end go to the 2.2. I would also say some of the driveability has been lost with the cams and some low end torque was given up for high end......the blower also drops off at 5,200 rpm's. I think the 9lb pulley with stock block was the best of both worlds, driveability and power, jmo