more problems with engine, please help
- Thread starter mob
- Start date
I was there to help install the heads, Telfon pipe dope was used on the lower head bolts. New ARP head bolts were used along with the special ARP head bolt washers. The upper head bolts and the washers for the lower head bolts got a coat of Never-Seeze. I have used the telfon pipe dope before and it has worked well.PoopDawg said:
PoopDawg said:
Good point.
It sounds like a head gasket issue to me but until you do a compression or leak down test its just a guessing game. They will show you if you have a problem and where it lies.
To me it sounds like you have a leak between a cylinder and water jacket and you the engine compression is pressurizing the coolant system and and causing it to bubble and give you that smell. You can also have a products of combustion test done on the coolant and that will also let you know if you have a bad headgasket.
The heads were installed correctly, I have no doubt about that.
I changed the oil today and it wasent milky, but when I looked in my pan I dreained it in, it was all black, with alittle brown tint floating around, deffinatly more watery then normal, but not milky colored.
Im about to do the compression test but im trying to figure it out real quick, the instructions say hold the carbeutator at open throttle, do i need to do this with the t/b? And do I have to take all spark plugs out or can i do it one at a time. My spark plugs were really lose, like I could twist them out with my hand, maybe thats causing some loss of compression?
I changed the oil today and it wasent milky, but when I looked in my pan I dreained it in, it was all black, with alittle brown tint floating around, deffinatly more watery then normal, but not milky colored.
Im about to do the compression test but im trying to figure it out real quick, the instructions say hold the carbeutator at open throttle, do i need to do this with the t/b? And do I have to take all spark plugs out or can i do it one at a time. My spark plugs were really lose, like I could twist them out with my hand, maybe thats causing some loss of compression?
well heres my oil guys...dosent look bad, Nick (poopdawg) said the little bit of brown can be condensation. I emptied the bucket out before i changed my oil but last time i changed it was after the headswap so it was full of coolant, maybe sme was still in there. It only has the brown spots when I hit the bucket and it moves around, its black when its just sitting there.
Im still going to do the compression check when it stops raining, but I think my loss of compression may have been the fact that I could take my spark plugs out with my hand, they were not tight at all, and ill retorque my lower intake, and headers, ill let you guys know how everything goes, hoping its still not a headgasket, resivour is still boiling coolant, but car is not overheating
we'll see.
Just sitting
after I hit the bucket
Im still going to do the compression check when it stops raining, but I think my loss of compression may have been the fact that I could take my spark plugs out with my hand, they were not tight at all, and ill retorque my lower intake, and headers, ill let you guys know how everything goes, hoping its still not a headgasket, resivour is still boiling coolant, but car is not overheating
we'll see.Just sitting
after I hit the bucket
Attachments
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading.Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent. If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would be a good tool to add to your collection.
With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference.
I generally use a big screwdriver handle stuck in the TB between the butterfly and the TB to prop the throttle open. The plastic is soft enough that it won't damage anything and won't get sucked down the intake either.
A battery charger (not the trickle type) is a good thing to have if you haven't driven the car lately or if you have any doubts about the battery's health. Connect it up while you are cranking the engine and it will help keep the starter cranking at a consistent speed from the first cylinder tested to the last cylinder.
As always, give me a call if you need some help.
With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference.
I generally use a big screwdriver handle stuck in the TB between the butterfly and the TB to prop the throttle open. The plastic is soft enough that it won't damage anything and won't get sucked down the intake either.
A battery charger (not the trickle type) is a good thing to have if you haven't driven the car lately or if you have any doubts about the battery's health. Connect it up while you are cranking the engine and it will help keep the starter cranking at a consistent speed from the first cylinder tested to the last cylinder.
As always, give me a call if you need some help.
thanks joe, I already bought a screw in type compression tester.
And modular yes, I went over them with a level ruler thing, and used a flashlight to see if i could see any holes and it looked flat...
And modular yes, I went over them with a level ruler thing, and used a flashlight to see if i could see any holes and it looked flat...
795.0pacecar
lover of pudgy polygamists
lol, they "looked" flat. Use a level bar, I think it may be called a true bar, then use feeler gauges to check for warpage.
795.0pacecar said:
yea I know its not the best thing to go by, i didnt look at it and say yep their perfect, but I didnt want to spend money on stock heads. I ddnt have time to finish compression check but one whole side is at 150psi, looks good, ill finish the other side. Car is running alright, not smoking, and dosent smell, power seems to be back, I think the spark plugs may have been my problem.
795.0pacecar
lover of pudgy polygamists
Mavrick
Founding Member
Constantly boiling coolant, but you don't think it's overheating? What gauge are you going by, stock or aftermarket? Maybe try another gauge..
Mavrick said:
I am going by stock gauge. Its been pretty accurate so far, but I guess ill have to try another.
Blk91stang
Member
Mavrick said:
i find it hard to believe the coolant is "Boiling" from being vaporized. A 50/50 blend of coolant and water in a coolant system sustaining a 15lb cap will boil around 265 degrees. When you see the coolant boiling, put your finger in it to see if it is hot or not (should be able to tell by vaporization if it is really 265 degrees, this will determing if your coolant is overheated or not)
His problem is there is pressure getting into his coolant system causing "bubbles" which is gas escaping from the system. This gas is most likely combustion fumes leaking through the head gaskets. I've been through 3 blown head gaskets and my last one sounds EXACTLY like yours. Coolant bubbling and coolant smelling like gasoline or "alcohol".
It is well worth the investment to get your heads "milled" to be sure the surface is flat. I think it might cost $40 tops to get this done. If indeed your headgaskets are blown, it is probably because of this or your block deck is not flat either. Chances are your heads are warped and unfortuantly, you gotta spend more $60+ on new gaskets, plus $40 for getting them shaved. Not to mention all the work involved but you do get good at it after a while.
I've been through this 4 times and learned new tricks each time. The good part of all this is you learn from your mistakes!!
Good Luck!!
Blk91stang said:i find it hard to believe the coolant is "Boiling" from being vaporized. A 50/50 blend of coolant and water in a coolant system sustaining a 15lb cap will boil around 265 degrees. When you see the coolant boiling, put your finger in it to see if it is hot or not (should be able to tell by vaporization if it is really 265 degrees, this will determing if your coolant is overheated or not)
His problem is there is pressure getting into his coolant system causing "bubbles" which is gas escaping from the system. This gas is most likely combustion fumes leaking through the head gaskets. I've been through 3 blown head gaskets and my last one sounds EXACTLY like yours. Coolant bubbling and coolant smelling like gasoline or "alcohol".
It is well worth the investment to get your heads "milled" to be sure the surface is flat. I think it might cost $40 tops to get this done. If indeed your headgaskets are blown, it is probably because of this or your block deck is not flat either. Chances are your heads are warped and unfortuantly, you gotta spend more $60+ on new gaskets, plus $40 for getting them shaved. Not to mention all the work involved but you do get good at it after a while.
I've been through this 4 times and learned new tricks each time. The good part of all this is you learn from your mistakes!!
Good Luck!!
hmm, im going to finish the compression test tomorrow.
The "boiling" is more of what you said, more like bubbles coming up, rather then the coolant actually boiling. Car is running good right now, all the power seems to be back. Only the compression test will tell though. Ill keep you guys updated on what I get tomorrow. I dont see how the surface of my block wouldnt be flat. Im it can warp or something and "it happens" but I highly doubt that is my problem. The heads not being milled may be a possibility, but Im still not sure.
Could a vacuum leak some how cause pressure in the system? Maybe a coolant leak in the lower intake? Im might take off the upper tomorrow and retorque the lower and see if the pressure stops.
And about touching the coolant, its down about half way down the resivour, no way I could reach it.
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