More timing feels good

JerseyGT said:
where would I got to get one of these "spouts" or timing lock pills? I don't have one.
On an SN95, the SPOUT connector is under the air inlet tube or tucked just inside the inner fender adjacent the inlet tube. On a fox, it is in the harness just off the distributor's TFI harness.

The presence of the SPOUT connector allows the computer to adjust timing (as is OEM). When the SPOUT is removed, the timing is locked. If you are truley missing your SPOUT connector, half the Fords in J/Y's have one. Or make a jumper wire and plug it into the SPOUT connector (it just loops two wires together).

Good luck.
 
i just tried to set my timing, but i didnt have alot of luck. i first turned the distributer clockwise, but i had TERRIBLE idle, so i turned it counterclockwise, and i still had terrible idle quality. so i decided to put it back to the stock. as soon as i start the car, for maybe 10 seconds, the idle is great at around 800 rpm, but then it drops to around 600, and stays there even if i rev it (falls back to 600) and when im driving. whats going on?
 
deadlast said:
i just tried to set my timing, but i didnt have alot of luck. i first turned the distributer clockwise, but i had TERRIBLE idle, so i turned it counterclockwise, and i still had terrible idle quality. so i decided to put it back to the stock. as soon as i start the car, for maybe 10 seconds, the idle is great at around 800 rpm, but then it drops to around 600, and stays there even if i rev it (falls back to 600) and when im driving. whats going on?
Here is where it is nice to know what you have it set at. I forgot to add that when not using a light, I always marked the dizzy shaft so I could get back to where I started if I needed to (I do this with all adjustments - for screws, a dab of paint at 12:00 is used, then I write down how many turns which way I did. that way I can get back to where I started).

It is also worth noting (though I think it might have been covered) that if someone is adjusting the timing without using a timing light, I see no need to remove the SPOUT first. That is only for timing light readings.

Deadlast, I would try driving it some. Since some things like Idle settings are affected by a larger timing change, it can take some time for the puter to relearn where it wants to be. If after a drive or two it still does it, then I would diagnose further.

Good luck.
 
well do i turn it clockwise or counter clockwise when looking at the front of the car? i did make 2 points with crayon at the stock configuration, so i know its back to stock. when you move, generally how many mm?
 
deadlast said:
well do i turn it clockwise or counter clockwise when looking at the front of the car? i did make 2 points with crayon at the stock configuration, so i know its back to stock. when you move, generally how many mm?
I cant remember which way is which. I can tell ya with 50% certainty. :rlaugh:
Someone will chime in here.

As for increments, I just goose it a hair. No real measurement - probably like the width of a sharpie marker line (if drawn on paper - allowing for ink bleed). It is a touch thing. And DO be sure to hold the dizzy perfectly still while you tighten the hold down, as the hold down will 'walk' the dizzy a degree or two as it gets the final tightening.

Good luck bud. Sorry to not remember which way is advance. :(
 
deadlast said:
see, i dont understand how the notches on the balencer, corralate with how much you turn the distributer. i can see the notches, and i knwo what they mean, but i dont know how to use them.

Mark the notches with light colored paint. I marked 10*,14*,and 16*.You shine the timing light on the marks. As you turn the distributor (very slightly) watch the pointer. Turn the distributor until the desired mark lines up with the edge of the pointer(with the light still shinning on the balancer). Tighten the hold down bolt and replace the spout. I bought a distributor hold down bolt wrench from Sears. It was about $10. It is basically a long rod with a boxed end wrench head on one end, and it is bent just right to easily access the bolt. It is Ford small block specific, so be sure to get the right one if you decide to buy one.

Advancing my timing from 10* to 16* smoothed out my idle, gave me quicker starts, and made a noticable power increase. I don't have any dyno numbers, but I can tell you it put a little more pep in my pony's step. It is not a huge performance gain, but it improved the way the car runs overall.
 
Clockwise to advance. Counter clockwise to retard. Your not moving it much. Just listen to the motor. You'll know when you've gone to far. Turn it just a little bit, tighten it and take it for a drive. If it runs good, try it again, just advance it slightly. don't try to get it all at once. Take your time.
 
My carburetor was backfiring out of it when I would floor it to WOT.. After some questions and asking for help I eventually figured out my timing was too advanced. Retarded it down to 12* and it runs like a beauty. I can floor it and it just tears ass doesnt backfire out of the carb or out of the exhaust.. However then my traction lock went bad so I only spin 1 tire :( I already ordered the kit though so it should be here soon then i'll be good to go :)