Years ago when I had my engine rebuilt I used some polyurethane motor mounts and I believe they raised my engine up to where it was touching the inside of my hood. I had to cut out the cross section to keep it from rubbing on my intake. I'm planning on painting my car and would like to use my stock hood but need the engine to sit a little lower. Would replacing the motor mounts with something different help?
Motor Mounts
- Thread starter Fri Guy
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Prothane mounts use the older pre-91 hardtop mounts which sit pretty high.
Energy Suspension mounts use the later convertible style mount design that sit lower.
I run the latter setup on my car, with a cobra intake and 3/8" spacer and it all clears under a stock hood with the hood blanket in place.
Energy Suspension mounts use the later convertible style mount design that sit lower.
I run the latter setup on my car, with a cobra intake and 3/8" spacer and it all clears under a stock hood with the hood blanket in place.
I think the Prothane mounts are what I'm running. I'll get a set of the Energy suspension mounts and give them a try.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
A run of the mill motor mount from a parts store should fix the issue?
Put the motor back in the stock location so the hood will fit
Put the motor back in the stock location so the hood will fit
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
You generally only replace motor or trans mounts when they tear
Unless you are going racing
Your trans mount is most likely okay as far as where it positions the transmission tail shaft
So if it is not torn I would save that money for now
It's the hood clearance you are concerned with correct?
Unless you are going racing
Your trans mount is most likely okay as far as where it positions the transmission tail shaft
So if it is not torn I would save that money for now
It's the hood clearance you are concerned with correct?
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Fri Guy,
There is nothing much funner to do than body and paint
At least try to do some of it yourself
My rich insurance man buddy and I do body and paint for fun and for free mostly
My rich Dr buddy ripped the fiberglass fender off his expensive Mastercraft boat
I thought hell we will just buy a new fender (wrong) a million dollars will not buy a new one
We fixed it for free and still joke about doing charity work for millionaires
There is nothing much funner to do than body and paint
At least try to do some of it yourself
My rich insurance man buddy and I do body and paint for fun and for free mostly
My rich Dr buddy ripped the fiberglass fender off his expensive Mastercraft boat
I thought hell we will just buy a new fender (wrong) a million dollars will not buy a new one
We fixed it for free and still joke about doing charity work for millionaires
If I had the space and time I would try doing some of it myself, hell I'd like to do it all myself but just not possible at the moment for me.
Fri, I put solid motor mounts in my daily years ago and to this day they do the job and lowered my motor about an inch or so.
They don't effect the ride as long as you do regular trans. mount.
They don't effect the ride as long as you do regular trans. mount.
Willybill32
But at least it's tight!
Just tagging along on this thread with a question. My '86 hood fits OK, but the motor mounts are still the originals. Is there any benefit to replacing the old ones?
Bill
Bill
I put new Napa motor mounts on my Dodge during the restoration
Right after I got it back on the road, I was doing something with the hood up... Had the car in reverse lightly power braked it... The engine flipped up sideways what seemed like a foot or two..... Figuring the ' made in INdia" napa motor mounts had already gone bad I removed them and installed new poly urethane ones.... Amazingly after inspecting the napa motor mounts after taking them out, they were NOT damaged??? Someone told me the Indians make em with whale blubber so they stretch..... I have been suspect of using ANY rubber stockish motor mount since....
Right after I got it back on the road, I was doing something with the hood up... Had the car in reverse lightly power braked it... The engine flipped up sideways what seemed like a foot or two..... Figuring the ' made in INdia" napa motor mounts had already gone bad I removed them and installed new poly urethane ones.... Amazingly after inspecting the napa motor mounts after taking them out, they were NOT damaged??? Someone told me the Indians make em with whale blubber so they stretch..... I have been suspect of using ANY rubber stockish motor mount since....
Last edited by a moderator:
I hate to call out new parts, but I agree with not replacing unbroken standard motor and transmission mounts with new rubber ones. I replaced them on my Olds with the best Napa had when the engine was out. The transmission mount was a consolidated part number that was taller than the stock one. So the yoke self clearanced the floor the first time I used the brakes hard. (Good thing the seats are vinyl!) The thickness of the transmission mount for the application varies by brand. :-(
Then the driver’s side engine mount ripped soon after break in when I scooted across an intersection. I straightened out the PS pulley from where it smacked the hood brace. Then I put another new mount it with two hose clamps around it. (Redneck, but it has worked for years.)
I have not had issues with the poly transmission mount in my Mustang, and less NHV than the worn out one.
Same here, dropped motor about 1".
Make sure you have enough clearance between the oil pan and the steering rack or you may end up adding washers between the block and mounts like I did. Use longer screws if you add washers.
Be aware of pinion angle at the trans to driveshaft.
When I did my auto to manual swap I reused the prothane mount I was using with the auto. I have prothane engine mounts too. After the tranny swap I had a constant vibration felt in the shifter handle. This past fall when I was putting it away I put the car up stands to check some things underneath. While I was there I thought I would check angles at axle (I have modified the control arm mount points relative to stock) and tranny while it was up in the air since I had not done so before.
When I got measuring I came up with 2 or 3 deg up at rear axle, 2 deg up on driveshaft and 5 deg down on tranny (meaning line from tailshaft to crank was going down. This gave me a 7 deg difference/total angle at the tranny. I found some info online that to rev up to 5000 and not have vibration the total at either end of the driveshaft should not be greater than 3 deg. I rummaged around the shop and found a prothane tranny mount that was about 1" shorter (if I remember right). I loosely installed and got a new pinion angle at tranny of 5 deg up (so 3 deg difference at the U-joint). I will add a spacer to shim tranny up slightly and get closer to 0 deg difference. I obviously have not driven it with the change to see if the vibration went away but I think it will.
What was the point of my little story... If you drop the engine mount height, be careful that you have not adversely affected the tranny pinion angle and then create an issue elsewhere.
When I did my auto to manual swap I reused the prothane mount I was using with the auto. I have prothane engine mounts too. After the tranny swap I had a constant vibration felt in the shifter handle. This past fall when I was putting it away I put the car up stands to check some things underneath. While I was there I thought I would check angles at axle (I have modified the control arm mount points relative to stock) and tranny while it was up in the air since I had not done so before.
When I got measuring I came up with 2 or 3 deg up at rear axle, 2 deg up on driveshaft and 5 deg down on tranny (meaning line from tailshaft to crank was going down. This gave me a 7 deg difference/total angle at the tranny. I found some info online that to rev up to 5000 and not have vibration the total at either end of the driveshaft should not be greater than 3 deg. I rummaged around the shop and found a prothane tranny mount that was about 1" shorter (if I remember right). I loosely installed and got a new pinion angle at tranny of 5 deg up (so 3 deg difference at the U-joint). I will add a spacer to shim tranny up slightly and get closer to 0 deg difference. I obviously have not driven it with the change to see if the vibration went away but I think it will.
What was the point of my little story... If you drop the engine mount height, be careful that you have not adversely affected the tranny pinion angle and then create an issue elsewhere.
The parts store engine mounts are all made by the same vendor, and they suck. They are really quite terrible. I bought a set and one side wasn’t going to mount without enlarging the hole and bending one mount slightly.
What else do you expect from a mount that cost $6.
The more expensive parts store mounts are pretty much the same vendor, just with a different label on it.
I wish I could find some NOS ford 91-93 mounts, but that’s a pipe dream
What else do you expect from a mount that cost $6.
The more expensive parts store mounts are pretty much the same vendor, just with a different label on it.
I wish I could find some NOS ford 91-93 mounts, but that’s a pipe dream
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
I have ran them all and prefer stock rubber mounts
If you are going racing add a few links of chain to save your arse from breaking parts
If you are going racing add a few links of chain to save your arse from breaking parts
